The red power wire leading to the thermostat shows signs of overheat. About onehalf inch of the red coating has melted/browned and then it completely seperated from the clip on the back of the rotating selector knob. . The heater is two years old and never has had a problem. Can a faulty thermostat cause this heat build up ?

Check the voltage to the oven. Also, check the contacts on the oven relay. (If the relay shows signs of having been overheated, the contacts are probably bad, but not every bad contact will cause visible overheat damage.)

Inspect all of the connection terminals in the wiring from the inlet power to the controller relay to the heating elements. A poor connection will overheat the wire but prevent proper heating of the element. Heavily oxidized or loose terminals should either be cleaned up or replaced. Since you say both elements have the problem, I would start first with the input power connection. That includes turning off the breaker to the oven and checking the wall socket.

If you have aluminum wiring to the wall socket, the connection may need to be redone. First verify that the socket is marked for aluminum wiring (Al or Al/Cu). Aluminum wire connection requires great care: the wire must be cleaned to expose shiny metal, then immediately coated with a special grease made for aluminum wiring before insertion into the socket terminals, and the terminals must be torqued to specification. Otherwise, you will eventually have a poor connection and possible fire hazard. If you don't see any grease on aluminum wire, that could be the problem. If you have copper wire, standard wiring procedures apply.

hi,,

need to use a multimeter so put the meter on VDC( line with a dotted line under it)
plug your leads into common black and red(not amps) the other one . put your leads on the output. if you got it right it will show the voltage WITHOUT a negative sign or analog gauge will not be buried in the left side. to find positive get the voltage showing without the minus sign before the number or without the gauge reading the wrong way, then the wire your red lead is on is positive,

jm

You have to go to your indoor unit its called a airhandler check high voltage going to unit should be 240volts .if you have 240volts look to see if there is a fuse either on the board or in line it will look like a car fuse 3amp or 5 amp check if fuse is blown but before checking make sure you pull disconnect so you dont have any high voltage going to unit. If fuse is blown get same exact fuse auto parts store will have them replsce put stab back in diconnect unit should run .if there is no fuse in airhandler keep high voltage on go to transformer and check for low voltage comeing out of transformer .NO 24 volts comeing out .replace transformer.if you have 24 volts comeing out of transformer check low voltage wireing thermostat wireing one goes to thermostat and other goes to out door heatpump usealy Brown in color and will have 8 small different colors wires inside brown jacket. Check for 24volts between red wire and common should be blue color if it is color coded. If no voltage there is a break in red or common wire.or sometimes just wirenuts need to be retightin.also when checking for low voltage one leed must be on common and other lead goes to red.also with high voltage off take face off thermostat carefully make sure all connections are TIGHTEN. This will also so you witchcolor wire is common it will be connected to C terminal hope this helps.note must have 24volts red and common or t-stat will not light up.hope this helps

You need to know what the brown wire was connected to you old thermostat...or you need to open the furnace and check to see what the brown wire is connected to & trace to the board. A brown wire is not a typical color used in thermostat wiring. Now the Red is normally your control 24 V power. Red should be connected to R on the thermostat.

Well, according to my diagrams for 88-94 models, the alternator only uses the red and brown. There are pink-black wires that power some of the sensors and solenoids but should go to a fuse marked ECM in the fuse box.
Have you tried hooking up the harness without using the pink-black wire ?

there will be 2 wires in different colors inside the cable,

these wires are enamel coated and sennheiser has best quality coating over the wires, so soldering this could be a bit messy - this is the procedure to do so

first take out these wire leads out for about a centimeter from both the ends, try to loosen the leads and yo will find small clustered strands of fiber wound between the leads try to remove those fibers (only the visible ones) completely from both the ends of the exposed leads.
take a blade and try to wipe out the enamel coatings from the wires (make sure that the 2 leads does not touch each other after removing the enamel) now connect (solder) both the ends of the wire with their respective leads (eg. red with red or green with green as applicable) now you should be good to go

Please understand this is a delicate job and require atmost attention use cello tapes wherever applicable and tie knots at correct places to avoid further damages

HONEYWELL WEBSITE:
Go to honeywell.com
Under red welcome sign
Bottom red highlighted box literature/image search
Type in thermostat model number
Click on arrow to right
Then click on the PDF files owners manual / installation instructions

If you have a Raymarine pilot it makes sence to wire it all up to Seatalk. Wire as follows Red to red , silver to silver, yellow to yellow, brown(on rs125) to silver on seatalk buss Green (on rs125) to red on seatalk buss.The above is for the conection between RS125 and C80.
To hook the pilot to system you just need to hook the seatalk lines (red, yellow,silver) from the pilot to the conection with the RS125 and the seatalk cable to the C80.(Color for color).The sea talk connection for your pilot can be picked up from you course computer they are labeld and colored on the unit.
If you are not running a course computer as in the case with the older wheel and tiller pilots you will need to take a sea talk cable and cut it. Once it is cut you will see the red yellow and silver wires and you can tap into there . Remember to connect the cable back together were you cut it. Hope this helps

Disconnect the two fan plugs leads from the fan sensor switch in the thermostat housing bridge the two plugs with a wire if the fan starts then you will need to replace the fan sensor switch if not the fan will need replacing ,as for the temp light flashing with the indicator light maybe because they share the same fuse and they could share a common earth as well?
Cheers Michael

your best bet and where i would start is to identify where the coulors are conected at the fernace. in the industry we use standard wireing coulors wher green is g for fan and red is rh=switched trans power for heating . rc=switched transformer power for cooling . now normaly there is only one transormer so you would put a jumper from rc to rh and conect the red wire from the furnace to eather of these.jumper installed. the y is your cooling witch is normaly the yellow wire. o on the stat is for a heat pump if you nead to energize reversing valve in cooling mode . w is first stage heating and this can be conected to eather brown or white youll have to check at the furnace to see witch it is . the final wire eather brown or white should be conected to c or 24v common witch you didnt say you see on the thermostat. once again
red to rc and rh
green to g
yellow to y
brown or white to w
brown or white to common or c


please post feadback hope i was of help