My lower right burner will only work on high heat. What are the possible problems?

Based on the symptoms described, it is possible that the issue lies with the ceramic element that the burners connect to at the back of the burner unit. This could be causing a short circuit between the two burners, which is preventing the large burner from being adjusted lower when both burners are on.

It is also possible that there is an issue with the wiring or connections between the two burners, which is causing a similar short circuit. However, given that the smaller burner appears to be working fine, this seems less likely.

Another potential cause of this issue could be a problem with the control board or another component of the stove's electrical system. However, given that replacing the infinite switch and receptacle for the large burner did not resolve the issue, it seems less likely that this is the root cause.

In order to determine the exact cause of this issue, it may be necessary to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and repair the stove.

SEE PICS Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage
ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at the fusebox orbreaker panel to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity. Test the resistance of the heating element using a multi meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continui

Hello,

The switch for the right front burner is defective and needs to be replaced,its bad as far as internally when turned on no matter what its set it the interal contact is stuck on only high so their is no setting it will work on except high. By replacing the switch it will work on the various settings and not just high.


GENE

You need the switch for that burner. The contacts inside are stuck together. You will need to pull the unit and separate the glass from the lower body to access it. To get the right switch you need full model and serial number located on a plate at the bottom of the unit.

Your ability to perform this is dependent on how mechanical you are. The Whole unit must be removed from the counter opening and the base unscrewed from the glass, remove knobs before disassembling. For someone mechanical this is not difficult. De-energize whole unit first.

Once the two pieces are separated the remainder is mechanically easier. Disassemble the box on right containing the switches and replace the correct one. Reverse the process for reassembly. Good Luck

go to searsparts.com could be switch or burner or high temp fuse under glass

not related any further then sounds as if you have 2 burner switches gone bad,and actually the front right burner is controlled by a electronic control circuit board part retails for about $160-$200 part number 12002723, and left rear switch about $30 part number 74007841 . uint needs to be uninstalled from counter and parts changed by removing the bottom panel

Sounds like the Switch or the element are bad, try trouble shooting them. It's a stove top??
Eddie Rentas
Tupper LAke NY

Sounds to me like the RF switch is bad.
Eddie Rentas
Tupper Lake NY

You are right it is the infinate heat control. This has no thermostat. It works by letting the burner cycle on for longer periods of time on the higher settings on high it is on constantly. The contacts are probably fused inside This part shouldn't be more than $25.

Switch that controls that burner is bad and needs replacing