Thermostat for kenmore oven wiring

You're going to be hard pressed to find that exact part. What I would do is start looking into replacing it with a universal thermostat. Here's one that I've used before that usually works with very little modification:
Appliance Parts and Accessories Repair Appliance Parts Discount Parts...

Give it a shot. What have you got to lose? It's cheaper than buying a new wall oven!

Good luck

When cleaning the oven you got to be very careful because there's a little piece of copper in the back it looks like a little copper wire with a bare copper wire on it that is usually a thermostat it's on the back wall of the appliance inside the oven now you have a heating element on top and bottom you said that one of them stopped workin now you have a heating element on top and bottom you said that one of them stop working when you were cleaning the oven could you may have hit it moved it enough to disconnect it at the connection that comes out of the back of the oven to the inside of the oven to the element check and see if the two wires coming out of the back of the inside to the element are disconnected usually it's a Phillips head screwdriver now if you broke one of those wires needs to be reattached before you do any kind of work on that element or anything you should always unplug your oven from the wall the electrical outlet unplug it to be safe now if your thermostat which is that wir thermostat which is that wire copper wire looking thing coming out and see me on the back wall of the inside of the oven it's on a clip if you moved or bent that in any way that could also cause you thermostat which is that wire copper wire looking thing coming out and ceiling on the back wall of the inside of the oven it's on a clip if you moved or bent that in any way that could also cause your temperature to be off you really don't want to have to touch that if you don't have to I hope that helped you be safe and good luck

You need to check the oven cycle relay,

1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
2. In order to gain access to the oven cycling relay, refer to your owner's manual. Removing the back panel of the range accesses most relays, but some ranges locate the relay under the oven compartment where the utility drawer is usually located.
3. Now you can test the relay using your VOM. First, label each wire attached to the relay and remove them from the relay terminals. Using your VOM's ohmmeter function, set the range to R x 1 and touch one test lead to the terminal marked L and the other test lead to terminal H2. There should be NO continuity. Next, test the terminals marked H1 and H2. Again, there should be NO continuity. Finally, test the S and R terminals. Continuity should exist between these two terminals. If your relay does not pass all these tests, it is defective and should be replaced.
4. To remove the relay, undo the two screws securing it to the range and replace with the correct new relay. Refer to your wiring diagram and labeled wires to ensure that the wires are on the correct terminals. Now replace the back panel or drawer and test the oven.

Then you check the oven thermostat: When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this information helped you.

There are three possible defects to conside. In order of likelihood given what you've described...

1) The bake element is defective. You can remove it and check it with an ohm meter. A good one would be roughly 20 to 40 ohms, a bad element has high (or very high) resistance.

2) The oven thermostat. It controls both the bake and broil elements, but has seperate control circuits (contacts) for each. The bake element is used most and most likely to fail. You *can* check for voltage while its operating, but if you aren't sure of what you're doing its an unnecessary danger. If you eliminate the element (#1 above) and the wiring (#3 below) then the thermostat is what you have to replace.

3) The wiring from the thermostat to the bake element could be defective. (I'm sorry, I don't know if your bake element has a socket or just wiring. It is possible for a bad socket to burn and pit the element's contacts and to have to replace both.). This is the least common cause, but if you test the bake element resistance at the thermostat, that includes the wiring, and if the element by itself is good, but not with the wiring then its the wiring. Since the broil element works, the wiring feeding power to the thermostat is good, and the only wiring to check was from the thermostat to the bake element.

Hi.

This is an universal replacement part, that is the reason why it is different from your TB original part.

The thermostat should have the temperature probe already attached.

Fit temperature probe and thermostat, then connect the element (s) wires on one side of the thermostat. The order in which you connect element polarity to thermostat does not matter. The thermostat will cut off power to element when the specific temperature is being reached by the temperature probe.

If neither the bake nor the broiler heating elements heat, but the range burners still work, the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. Check to be sure the clock buttons and knobs are set properly. If your clock has a knob that says "push for man(ual)", push the knob in and try the baking and broiling elements again. If it still does not operate properly, you probably have a defect in the thermostat, selector switch, or common wiring. If the oven does not have a separate bake/broil/etc. selector switch, the problem may be with the thermostat. But it's not easy to check the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a problem in this area, call a qualified appliance repair technician.

Your oven thermostat has gone faulty. You need to unplug power from the wall. Remove panel that allows access to oven thermostat, Remove knob and see what type of retaining method it has to secure it to the oven. (Does it have a nut or does it have 2 screws holding itself in position.?). How thick is the dial shaft?(5 or6 or 7 mm.thick). With that information, look now at the body of the thermostat. It should have a number sequence in the form of a sticker on it. Write it down. Phone the spares suppliers and quote them the stove model number with the other relevant items you wrote down to ensure the correct thermostat. Note, never remove wires until you are ready to transfer them one at a time from one thermostat to the other until transfer is complete. Reassemble completely and check.

Could be the thermostat, glow bar, valve or wiring but usually the glow bar

IF YOUR HEATING ELEMENT IS GETTING ORANGE HOT, AND CYCLING, I WOULD SUSPECT THE THERMOSTAT TO BE THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM. YOU MAY FIND IT HARD TO FIND ONE THOUGH DUE TO ITS AGE.

hi If the oven doesn't heat evenly or doesn't heat at all, the oven thermostat may be malfunctioning. First, determine how much the temperature in the oven is off from the control setting. To do this, put an oven thermometer on a center rack inside the oven and turn the oven on for about 20 minutes, with the thermostat set at any range between 300 degrees and 400 degrees Farenheit. If the oven thermometer reads 25 degrees or more lower or higher than the oven control setting, the thermostat should be recalibrated. Here's how to calibrate the thermostat:

Step 1: Pull off the thermostat knob on the control panel. Behind the knob are two screws holding a round, notched plate. Loosen these screws, but do not remove them.

Step 2: With a screwdriver, change the notch setting on the notched plate by turning the plate counterclockwise; for every eighth of a turn, the oven temperature goes up about 25 degrees Farenheit. To turn the heat down, turn the plate clockwise.

Some thermostats can be adjusted by turning a screw inside the control knob shaft housing. To do so, remove the knob and insert a screwdriver into the shaft so that the screwdriver blade engages a screw slot. Turn the screwdriver counterclockwise about one-eighth of a turn to raise the heat about 25 degrees Farenheit. Here's how to test a malfunctioning thermostat:

Step 1: Test the thermostat with a VOM (multimeter) set to the RX1 scale. The thermostat is located directly on the back of the control knob that regulates the heat. To gain access to the thermostat, remove the back service panel to the control panel.

Step 2: Disconnect one electrical lead wire from a terminal of the thermostat and clip one probe of the VOM to each thermostat terminal. If the thermostat is in working order, the meter will register zero. If the needle jumps to a higher reading, the thermostat is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 3: If necessary, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type.

If you need to replace the thermostat, follow these guidlines:

Step 1: Disconnect the terminal wires to the thermostat and pull off the control knob.

Step 2: Remove the retaining screws. On some ranges, there is a wire running from the thermostat into the oven. This wire operates a sensing bulb that controls the thermostat. The sensing bulb is usually held by a bracket; unscrew this bracket to remove the bulb. Then carefully slip out the wire, the bulb, and the thermostat.

Step 3: Install the new thermostat using a reverse procedure.