1-CHECK THE MOTOR TEST IT TRY RUNING IT ALONG 2- CHECK THE CONTRALS AND SMELL IT, LOOK AT IT REAL CLOSE SEE IF YOU SEE ANYTHING BURNT THERES A POSIBILITY THAT MAYBE THE CONTROLER BURNT OUT.
REMINDER MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE WASHER,
Replacing the control panel should be the LAST thing you attempt!
Go back to basics first - does the machine empty when you turn it on? have you removed the water in the machine by lowering the waste hose onto the floor or removing the drain filter? do the program indicators light up?is water flowing through the fill hose / hoses? Are any fault codes showing? If you replaced the fuse, did it blow again? Have you any means of testing electrical Insulation / Earth continuity? Have you tried plugging something else into the washing machine socket - say a kettle or heater etc?
It well may be the Electrical Control Board in the end, BUT if you fit a new board onto a faulty part - say a blown heater - you will probably blow the new board as well, and the shop won't take it back for this reason.
SOURCE: Washing machinehas power, power light is on, but
If water is flooded, necessary to check the brush of the motor.
SOURCE: Machine suddenly started making a strange grinding
Hello,
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description, " strange grinding noise while in the spin cycle. The water drained, but the noise is not normal. Is there an issue with the pump?" it could very well be just a clogged pump insert/filter.
It's not very difficult to check on the 8005 Asko though, you'll first need to remove the panel beneath the door...it should just pull forward and off.
**Unplug the washer before servicing the unit though...safety first** You may also need to have a wet-dry shop vacuum or plenty of towels as there will be quite a bit of water present.
Carefully remove the filter from the pump by turning it ( slowly to allow water out gradual )...the issue with these Asko pump inserts/filters is they can get so clogged up they are stuck and difficult to remove...
i.e.
these can become clogged with items such as coins, hair-pins etc. that can actually damage the part, thus causing a "grinding noise" or the like.
Once the filter is removed check the pump thoroughly as well as the hoses to rule out any other possible blockage.
Unfortunately once they are clogged to an extreme degree removing the filter by normal means becomes difficult or impossible without breaking it as I alluded to.
The image I attached above is an example of a pump I had to remove and disassemble to clean it out so the filter could be removed/unscrewed, hence the need for the "worm-gear" clamps had to be used to replace the original "one-time" clamps. 
If you indeed break this part during your attempts to remove it, a replacement is available, Asko original part # 88 010 69 and available at on-line retailer "repairclinic.com" for about $25-$30USD.
i.e.
Let me know how you make out or if you require further assistance. Ultimately the drain pump itself could be faulty, or it could be the main motor brushes causing the noise...that can be ruled out or confirmed by running a spin cycle with the drain pump disconnected, but I'd certainly check for obstructions first.
Thank you for choosing FixYa and good luck.
Regards,
Macmarkus :)
Testimonial: "Thanks for the help! I found a piece of small diameter plastic tubing caught in the filter. Hope it wasn't part of the machine! "
SOURCE: The washing machine w620 stops
Hi.
If the machine stops at 5 it means that there is a problem with the heating circuit. If the machine stops at 8 there is a problem with the drain system. In this last case the control board waits for the input from pressure switch to decide that there is no more water and advance to spin.
If water is getting hot and machine still stops at 5 in cycle, then thermistor, element and fuse must be tested. Testing is done removing the parts and using a multimeter to read impedance at the two contacts of each part. If any of the three parts reads Open (Ohms infinity) at the multimeter, then the part is defective. If the thermistor reads zero or impedance
In case the washer is instead stopping before spin, disconnect power, reach the hose connected to drain pump and look for blockage in there. Also do a test with the drain hose down in a bucket. If the machine completes the cycle the drain hose was clogged or the elbow height was incorrect. If pump and hose are OK and there is a drain problem (machine does not advance to spin), then the responsible is usually the pressure switch that detects water level.
Below the parts manual and the diagnostic cycle. The diagnostic is done jumping a connector on the main board. Since the diagnostic simply performs a cycle and reports when the cycle hangs on you do not need to run the diagnostic.
The parts mentioned above must be tested to find the fault. The parts involved are not expensive and the machine is still worth repairing. If you have no experience of testing and repairing appliances, try calling the number listed on the owners manual to get a quote on repair or see Book a service.
Here parts manual: Untitled
Here test programme:W600-Series.
Regards.
Ginko
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Hopefully it only blew a fuse. You have to take the lid off to replace that, but that's not too hard. I replaced mine from an identical one I got at radio shack, but that store isn't around anymore. If it's not the fuse, it might be the control panel, which is much more expensive to replace. Try replacing the fuse first.
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