My whirlpool dishwasher is ocasionally filling back up with water, whether the door is open or closed, and regardless of of control panel being lit. It happens, then leaks out the front. If i run the cancel drain, it will pump out the water just fine. All the other cycles are working just fine, and it leaves no water at the end of of the cleaning cycle. I have found no common occurance for this

If it fills with cold water, it will pause and try to heat the water... if there is no heater function, it will never achieve wash temperature.
To invoke the Diagnostics Cycle, perform the following while in standby:
? Press any 3 keys in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 with no more than 1 second between key presses.
? The Service Diagnostics Cycle will start when the door is closed Whirlpool Dishwasher High Limit Thermostat WP661566 , Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element W10518394 , Whirlpool Dishwasher Control Board W10751502

Did you have a power outage recently? They are notorious for damaging circuit boards--usually about 3-4 weeks after the power interruption strange things will either start happening or *not* happening with appliances due to damaged computer chips on the boards starting to fail. Your symptoms indicate either a blown user interface(push button panel) or a defective main control board(board with the brains on it) or both!

Larry,
The float is generally for overflow conditions and will interrupt power to the fill valve solenoid.
If you are not filling completely in the time allowed by the timer, it is most likely a flow restriction in the water supply. Barring other obvious restrictions, the fill valve has filter screens on the inlet side of the fill valve, which is generally the cause of your symptoms. Be careful if you attempt to clean the screens, as the fill valves are very sensitive to debris, and can become stuck open if sediment gets past the screen. I usually replace the fill valve to avoid future problems.
Hope this helps.

it could be a bad fill valve.to chk this ,open the door and look for the inlet hole from where water comes in.if u see and droplets of water coming down the hole then it is the fill valve.when machine is off the fill should be closed and no water should come in.
other thing could be ,if u have hooked up the drain pipe of the unit directly to the food disposar instead of going through air gap mounted at the sink then some water from the disposar could flow back into the unit.units have chk valve valve built in drain pipe but some times they work 100%.also chk 2 c if water insinde unit is dirty or fresh to confirm above things.

The newer Whirlpool dishwashers have little slots in the top of the soap dispenser to allow water to seep in during the first water fill. This design allows the tablet to begin to dissolve during the first fill then be usefull when the soap door opens. In your case, I would check to see if the soap dish is opening at all. Perhaps one of the racks are not allowing clearance or the soap door itself is sticking closed.

Let the dishwasher fill, drain, and then fill again. Open the door of the dishwasher and see if the soap door is still closed and if so, there is your problem. Also, at this time, check the water temperature. It should be at least 120 degrees F for the soap to be effective.

Hope this helps, Ken

Check this all causing not fill water:

• Check that the water supply is turned on. The valve may be located under the sink.
• Check the door latch
  
• Test the door switch
• Inspect the float assembly
  
• Inspect the fill tube for kinks
• Test the float switch
  
• Check the inlet valve filter screens
• Test the water inlet valve
  
• Test the drain valve lever arm
• Check the drained valve

The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it. One hose will lead from the valve to the pump/motor assembly in the center of the dishwasher. Check that the hoses are securely connected to the valve and that there are no kinks in the hoses which could restrict water flow.

The door switch is a separate part from the door latch and is found inside the cabinet. The switch is off when the door is open. Depressing the switch closes the circuit and enables dishwasher operation. Closing the door does not depress the switch all the way. Only when the door is closed and latched, does the door fully depress the switch.
If the door latch is not properly aligned it may not pull the door tightly closed and the door switch will not be fully depressed. Unless the switch is fully depressed the dishwasher will not operate.
It is a simple matter to determine whether the door latch is theproblem. Simply open the door, close the latch and select a cycle anddepress the switch. Note that if the test is successful, with the dooropen, the dishwasher will operate and water may spray out. Make sure tofirst remove all tools from inside the dishwasher. Do not reach insidethe dishwasher during the test. Now, inspect the cabinet where the doormakes contact with it and locate the door switch. It may have aprotruding button or spike or more likely it is a hole with a piece ofmetal or plastic inside it. You must fully depress that switch. If theswitch is recessed, then use a non-conductive object, such as a woodenpencil, to depress the switch.
If the dishwasher begins to operate during this test, then you have isolated the problem. The door switch is not being fully depressed when the door is latched. There are three likely possibilities:

1. The door latch is misaligned.
2. The entire door is misaligned.
3. The striker for the door switch is damaged or misaligned.

To service the door latch, it may be necessary to access it in the control panel. Access varies by model; on some models you can remove just the control panel on others you must remove the interior or exterior panel of the door.
Before removing the control or interior panel, look first for exposed screws that may allow you to adjust the latch or the strike plate. You may be able to loosen the screws and shift the latch on the door or the strike plate on the cabinet. It may require some trial and error, but you can loosen, adjust, tighten and test until it latches properly.

Good luck ;

Don't forget to rate:

Check that the water supply is turned on. The valve may be located under the sink.

Check the door latch

Test the door switch

Inspect the float assembly

Inspect the fill tube for kinks

Test the float switch

Check the inlet valve filter screens

Test the water inlet valve

Test the drain valve lever arm

Check the drain valve

The door latch pulls the door tightly closed to prevent water leakage around the door. It is also designed to prevent operation while the door is open. The door latch works in concert with the door switch to ensure that the door is tightly closed and latched. The door switch is a separate part from the door latch and is found inside the cabinet. The switch is off when the door is open. Depressing the switch closes the circuit and enables dishwasher operation. Closing the door does not depress the switch all the way. Only when the door is closed and latched, does the door fully depress the switch.
If the door latch is not properly aligned it may not pull the door tightly closed and the door switch will not be fully depressed. Unless the switch is fully depressed the dishwasher will not operate.
It is a simple matter to determine whether the door latch is the problem. Simply open the door, close the latch and select a cycle and depress the switch. Note that if the test is successful, with the door open, the dishwasher will operate and water may spray out. Make sure to first remove all tools from inside the dishwasher. Do not reach inside the dishwasher during the test. Now, inspect the cabinet where the door makes contact with it and locate the door switch. It may have a protruding button or spike or more likely it is a hole with a piece of metal or plastic inside it. You must fully depress that switch. If the switch is recessed, then use a non-conductive object, such as a wooden pencil, to depress the switch

Watch the light closely. If it blinks 7 times then pauses, this indicates a heater or door latch issue.
Press the following buttons in sequence: Hi Temp Wash, Heated Dry, Hi Temp Wash, Heated Dry, Hi Temp Wash.
If this doesn't work, check the tech sheet. (should be stuck to inside of the bottom toe panel)

All lights should illuminate then a diagnostic sequence will start.
Listen carefully, as soon as you hear the water begin to fill, open the door and feel the heater. if cold, check the heater for continuity (should be around 10ohms)
Also, bend the door catch on the dishwasher tub downward, this will engage the door latch better. Don't bend too far as it will hit the door while closing.

Watch the light closely. If it blinks 7 times then pauses, this indicates a heater or door latch issue.
Press the following buttons in sequence: Hi Temp Wash, Heated Dry, Hi Temp Wash, Heated Dry, Hi Temp Wash.
If this doesn't work, check the tech sheet. (should be stuck to inside of the bottom toe panel)

All lights should illuminate then a diagnostic sequence will start.
Listen carefully, as soon as you hear the water begin to fill, open the door and feel the heater. if cold, check the heater for continuity (should be around 10ohms)
Also, bend the door catch on the dishwasher tub downward, this will engage the door latch better. Don't bend too far as it will hit the door while closing.

will these units (silo and jtrip) start back on their own? if so, it is likely they are heating the water.
otherwise it sounds like a logic board, unless there is a defective door switch or sensor issue.
electronics seem to be a recurring problem with whirlpool.
i would ask whirlpool (electorlux) to either buy it back or fix it.
good luck
mark