The error code is always right. Sometimes misleading, but in 15+ yrs I've seen, always right. I'm not familiar with a Hall Sensor. If this is a remote sensor, as in a remote location that senses in the hall and not at the tstat then I know what you're calling a hall sensor. Make sure your IDM is working and closing the air proving switch. And that no other safeties are in that circuit. Check continuity to the remote sensor wiring and all connections? I've seen hot surface ignitors look fine and not work, but pulled a new off the truck and the new worked. All else fails, remote sensors are tough to get a good ohm value due to a temp difference affecting the ohms, replace it. I'm not sure why your "drawing" would relate the IDM to a remote sensor so I'd focus on the IDM and follow the voltage trail.
SOURCE: (HVAC) Furnace Not Igniting Quickly
Make sure a back draft in the flue is not happening. Wind can blow it out until the flue heats up. The flame sensor may not be close enough to the burner flame. It may be weak and need to be replaced or if its an optical one it may be dirty and not see the flame very well. Its not wasting much gas but it puts extra wear and tear on the gas controls, is noisy, and, as you said, blows cold drafty air. A gas control system that has issues of any kind is not real safe. It needs to get fixed.
SOURCE: No flame on left side/main valve. Right side lights, flames up
Try taking out the orifice on the burner that is not lighting and make sure it isn't blocked.
SOURCE: goodman gas pack,stopped working,replaced batterys
What switch are you resetting? If it's a limit or roll out then first check for proper air flow (filter, A/C coil) to see if it's overheating. Then watch the burner flames. When the blower comes on do they change shape, color or waiver? If so you may have a cracked heat exchanger.
SOURCE: Gas Furnace will not start when outside temperature rises to 50F
The anticipator basically prolongs or reduces the time from shut down to start up, so your furnace or air conditioner isn't cycling too much , off and on. It also will anticipate that the setting you have the thermostat set at is near, and will shut thermostat/burner off early, assuming that the temperature will be reached soon, just from heat already in chamber being circulated through system. If it gets too cold before furnace turns on, adjust anticipator, if too hot when it shuts down, go the other way, but whenever you move it, just go a little at a time, until you get it where you want it.
Testimonial: "Thanks for the explanation about anticipators. Do they figure much in furnace problems?"
SOURCE: carrier 8000. call for heat but inducer motor
Where I live you had to be a franchised carrier dealer to sell carrier units. I did not have a large enough business to qualify so I'm not an expert on their units. However one of my best friends is a service tech for carrier and honeywell and I called him and he told me they had some bad control boardson that series. Unfortunatley there is no repair other than replacing the board. Sorry I'm not more help but this was all I could find. Thank you
Hello &
Welcome to FixYa
LE error in your LG front load washer is displayed
when either the motor is not working or the control board thinks that the motor
is locked up. A Hall effect sensor is used in these washer which monitors the
speed and direction of the motor and then forwards this information to the
control board. Hope you understand by now that this LE error is displayed when
their is an issue with the motor or when the hall effect sensor sends wrong
signal to the control. Conclusion is you'll have to check both motor and hall
sesor and replace the part# that is bad, usually I have seen the sensor going
bad. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
Kevin
1. Thermostat calls for heat.
2. Draft inducer motor starts.
3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or
rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by
the draft inducer and closes.
4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute
before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did
not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about
1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops
with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your
furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition
until you turn your power switch back off and on
again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the
gas.
Solution: You
probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you
inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure
you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If
you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board
problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout
switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's
control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If
your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right
back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or
steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be
cleaned an will work well after cleaning.
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