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Here are some potential causes and solutions for your issue:
1. Shift cable: The shift cable might be stretched, damaged, or improperly adjusted. Inspect the cable for any visible damage and ensure that it moves smoothly. The cable may need to be replaced or adjusted to engage both forward and reverse gears reliably.
2. Control unit: The control unit, or shift lever, could be worn or have a damaged mechanism. Inspect the control unit for wear and tear, and ensure it is functioning smoothly. If it's damaged, it may need to be repaired or replaced.
3. Gear selector mechanism: The gear selector mechanism inside the outdrive may be worn or damaged, preventing reliable gear engagement. This issue would require a more in-depth inspection and potentially disassembly of the outdrive to diagnose and fix.
4. Clutch dog or gear wear: The clutch dog or gears inside the outdrive may be excessively worn, causing unreliable gear engagement. This issue would also require disassembly of the outdrive to inspect and potentially replace the worn components.
As with any mechanical issue, it's essential to ensure that you follow all safety precautions and consult a professional technician for accurate diagnosis and repair. Working on a boat's drive system can be dangerous and complicated if you're not experienced, so it's best to get professional help if you're unsure about any aspect of the repair.
Firstly ensure the derailleur is in good condition and not bent so the chain is running perfectly in line with the sprockets. Ensure the stop screws limiting the extent of the travel of the derailleur are set correctly to prevent travel beyond the first and last sprocket.
A badly worn chain could need shortening or replacing in order to provide the correct chain tension or a loose chain could be a matter of a derailleur that hasn't seen the oil can for a while and is not tensioning the chain correctly.
If the bike has been involved in an accident the rear forks could perhaps need some adjustment so a straight edge laid alongside the main chain-wheel coincides approximately with the middle of the rear sprocket cluster.
At this stage it is also wise to ensure the gear cable is in A1 condition, smooth operating and properly oiled with no internal frayed strands causing problems.
If your gear selectors are of the modern style with detents the gear cable needs adjusting so the centre of each detent at the gear selector positions the derailleur precisely below the selected sprocket. Once this is done if everything else mentioned above is ok the gears should now operate smoothly and positively.
If adjustment doesn't work then the problem is likely to be with the basic requirements above.
Good luck!
It is possible that the first gear shift fork in the transmission is bent causing the 'dog-clutch' between two gears to just barely mesh. With engine off, push the shift into first and clutch lever released. Rock the bike back and forth to see if the gearing seems to be jumping in and out. There may be a problem with the shift lever shaft mechanism not allowing a complete shift into first gear. Hope this helps!
A rough shift is exactly what it implies.The shifting of gears should be a smooth transition. Rough shifting causes jerking, gear chatter, and undue strain on the components.
Hi:
You need to check your clutch master cylinder reservour, not your brake cylinder. It is located approx in front of the clutch pedal, outboard of the brake cylinder. If it is low, you need to inspect for leaks around it, the lines connecting it to the clutch slave cylinder that is mounted on the transmission.
Sounds like the passing gear cable is out of adjustment. Get a shop manual and see what the specs are on how to adjust it properly. It is a pretty simple fix.
First thing to do is to check the shifter pawl adjustment. If you do not have a service manual then you need to get one. It will explain how to adjust shifter pawl and save you money on many other problems down the road.
Good news > save your money on the clutch. Bad news > Invest it in new shift forks. What you describe is a standard symptom of bent shift forks. Sorry to be the one to tell you this.
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