When i was stripping the insulation from the wires the red wire pulled out from the plug and dont know which hole it goes back in?

do them one at at a time pull wire then plug when replacing plug just snug it over tight can strip plug hole in head then re place new wire before moving to next one that way they dont get mixed up wires must go back in same spots

The white wire goes to the center screw in the terminal strip each side of that are the hot wires red & Black.
The green wire connects to a chassis ground screw. If there are none then drill a hole in a good metal spot near as possible to the terminal strip and screw it there tightly.


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Next to each hole on back of switch is a slot or opening for very small screwdriver.
Push screwdriver into hole while pulling back of wire.
It take a pretty good push inward to release the wire.

You can also snip the wire off and then re-strip insulation.
If you're short of wire inside the box, then snipping the wire could be disadvantage.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on switch.

If the cord is broken at the plug, most standard sub-mini,mini phone plugs can be replaced by someone with a little skill at soldering ( a ohm meter also helps). Get a replacement stereo plug like the old one (often at Radio shack or any electronic parts store). Cut off the old plug and carefully strip off the outside insulation back about 1/4". Note there is 3 conductors. The webbing around the 2 wires goes to the outside back end of the plug. This is the ground or common wire for both sides. This wire may have a non conducting coating on it which needs to be stripped off before you solder it to the plug. There is 2 other wires in the cord. one (often red) is the right channel and the other is the left. You can check which channel is the right side with a meter or a AA battery. DON'T try to check with the earphones on your head!! The right 'hot' side will go to the tip of the plug and the left side goes to the ring next to the tip. Don't forget to strip off the insulation of the wires by gently scraping them with a sharp knife or razer blade. Also don't do like I sometimes do and forget to put the collar or back piece on the wire before you solder the wires on the plug. Hope this helps.

Remove the two screws holding the cover on. Then the two screws holding the switch into the box. Then there are three wires black and white copper, un insulated. Unscrew the screws that are holding the wire on and replace them in the same place on the new one. If the wires are plugged into the back instead of screws. You will have to cut it and strip it. Or you can stick a tooth pick into a small release hole right beside of the wire. Then pull the wire out.

I use a sharp knife and slice off the outer covering on each side of the cable. With practice you can "feel" the outer insulation of the conductor and make the knife slide along it without damage. At that point I simply pull the two conductors out of the covering and use my wire stripper to expose the bare ground wire. When stripping the ground, I use a oversized hole on the wire stripper to keep from scoring the wire.
2 conductor is easier to strip than 3 conductor.
here's another
I use a sharp knife and slice off the outer covering on each side of the cable. With practice you can "feel" the outer insulation of the conductor and make the knife slide along it without damage. At that point I simply pull the two conductors out of the covering and use my wire stripper to expose the bare ground wire. When stripping the ground, I use a oversized hole on the wire stripper to keep from scoring the wire.
2 conductor is easier to strip than 3 conductor.
I've never tried tearing it apart. That sounds like it would be hard on the conductors to me.
steve

Good day,
the defrosting control is a part of the ice maker. If you don't care about appearances, you can wire around it.
First, you have to buy a 8 hour 20 minute Whirlpool defrost timer.
Any sharp appliance parts house counter guy will know what you need. It comes with one of the clock wires un-attached.
As well, you will need 4 insulated 1/4" female spade connectors.
Buy spares to be safe.

Cut the cord from the old ice maker at the ice maker.
There will be 5 main wires and a green ground wire.
Strip about 1" of the green wire's insulation.
There will be 5 wires left. red-orange-black-pink-brown.
Tape the brown wire back it will not be used.

strip back approx. 1/4" of the remaining wires. crimp a spade connector to each of the 4 remaining wires.

The terminals will look like this.... | | | | on the timer.
Notice the space between the first terminal and the second, compared to the rest.
We will call the terminals on the timer from left to right, 1,2,3,and 4 even though the timer will say differently.
Connect the loose wire on the timer to terminal 4.
Plug the red to #1, Orange to #2, black to #3, and pink to #4.
Plug into machine, and run to test. If O.K. then........
Using high quality electrical tape, tape everything exposed well.

Mount the timer to the wall using one of the left over holes from removing ice maker.

Drill a tiny hole, close to that area, and using a good self tapping screw, attach the green grounding wire. Detail your work as necessary.

It's ugly, but it works. Actually, I install the timer inside the case after gutting the works. If you want to try that, DO NOT cut the cord, as explained at the beginning.

Note: Some supply houses may still sell the adapter, already made up. You can check. In either case, you must have a timer in the circuit for defrosting.

normally you will have four wires in the cord: a red, a black, awhite and a green. The red and black are the hot or power wires the white is the neutral and the green is ground. Purchase a plug that matches your outlet pattern (that will plug in). Shut off the circuit breaker that feeds the outlet and remove the cover. strip the insulation back on the cord, determine which wire goes to which lug or terminal and connect the wires to the plug. reassemble the outlet and the plug, turn on the circuit and test. If all of this is greek to you, call a local electrician and pay them the $50 to $80 to put the plug on for you, its safer that way.

One way would be to go to a store that sells electrical parts and buy a replacement plug and install it.
The other would be to replace the whole cord, much more time consuming and probably a bit more expensive. I'd just go and buy a new plug.

The jacks on the back are probably for an amplifier output and you probably have had the speaker wire stripped too long possibly shorting out the amplifier as this is a common problem, if not stripped too long it may have just failed, also you need to check by unplugging from back of computer and hook up to a walk man or something with a headphone jack, see if still dead, might also be the cable from the computer to the speakers. Good luck. :-)