The on the door blink off and on and the flapper where the ice cubes are discharged clunks and the lights blink. The only thing I have done is unplug and leave off for five minutes and then plug back in. This last for 10 - 15 minutes and then begins again.

Hello Theresa;



My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.



I have gone on many a service call in regards to this issue. People like their crushed ice.



The auger was not the problem. It is the nature of the beast.



Regular ice cubes have more density (Heavy) and exit through the door dispenser with no problem.



With crushed ice, shaved chips they are lite. When you dispense crushed ice the ambient room temperature (warm air) creates condensate and bines the crushed ice together. Fragments of the crushed ice block the dispenser flapper from closing all the way. The flapper remains a little bit open and ices up.



The manufacturers recommend after you run crushed ice that you run cubes through your dispenser to clear the crushed ice fragments.



Well, that solution is from engineers sitting in a office.



The solution is, from a old experienced field technician is: Reach up and wipe the flapper with a dry cloth. Look up and make sure the flapper is completely closed.



If you need a tech call me at 414-306-1362. Glen Burnie, Maryland, USA

Hello George;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service technician.

I live in Baltimore, Maryland, USA.

All ice makers work in the same way.

Your fill cycle is working fine. You have a thermostat in your ice maker which tells your ice maker control module (Computer) that the ice cubes are frozen and ready for harvest. Then, then control module tells the cube tray heater to turn on for so many seconds, followed by the control module to activate the harvesting motor.

So, your ice maker either has a bad thermostat, heater or motor.

The beam across your freezer section is a safety device. On the right hand side is the transmitter. On the left hand side is the receiver with a plastic flapper. When you close the door the flapper closes and completes the signal to discharge ice. When you open the door the flapper pops out blocking the signal.

Hello William;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

The, 'Red' light is a infra red light. This light assembly on the right hand side of your freezer is the transmitter.
Directly across is the receiver. On the receiver is a spring loaded plastic flapper.
This is a safety device for your ice maker. When the freezer door is closed, the flapper is closed, allowing the infra red transmitter to complete the signal to the receiver. This allows the ice maker to discharge ice cubes. When the door is open the signal is broken, the flapper springs out blocking the circuit signal, and the ice maker will not discharge ice cubes.
There is a On/Off switch on the red transmitter. I do not know why you would want to turn it off. If you turn it off and the transmitter stays on then you have to replace both the transmitter and receiver.

Unit is off& Refrigeration diagnostic light is on or blinking. Possible Cause,( Low discharge or long freeze cycle. Probable correction, if the Refrigeration light is glowing steadily there is a probable refrigeration problem.) 2. Possible cause. Harvest problem. Probable Correction. If refrigeration light blinks once and repeats, Look for a harvest Problem.**On Controllers 17-1 and higher, This also indicates that cubes were (sensed) by the bin controls. 3. Possible Cause. Hot gas valve failure, Probable Correction. Check hot gas valve operation. 4. Possible Cause, High Discharge Temp. Probable Correction, If the refrigeration diagnostic light blinks 3 times and then repeats, check for a reason for high discharge temperatures. 5. possible Cause, Harvest problem. Probable Correction, Controllers 17-1 and higher, if the light blinks 2 times and repeats, check for a harvest error- no cubes sensed. 6. Possible Cause, Unit dose not go into harvest - exceeds maximum freeze time. Probable Correction, Push and release off button. Push and release Freeze button. Check operation. next Push cube size float down and check operation. 7. Possible Cause, Exceeds maxi harvest time. Probable Correction, Check for cause of long harvest cycle. Try not to put any gauges on system until you have to. Every time you do you loose refrigerant out of the system.

Hi,

It sounds like your crushed ice flapper might be stuck.

Open the freezer and remove the ice bin by pulling toward you. Dump the ice into a container if you wish to save it.

Turn the bin upside down and look at the opening in the front that the ice drops out. There is a white flapper door that is controlled by a metal rod going all the way to the back of the ice bin. If you move the metal arm up and down from the back you should see the flapper door open and close. Open is for cubed ice and closed causes the cubes to travel through the blades and be crushed.

The most common failure is ice or frost build up around the flapper door that causes it to stick shut and not move to the open or cubed position. You can unthaw by running warm water through it in the sink. Dry completely before returning it to the freezer. Clean out any ice chunks from the chute in the door that might be slowing down ice. That should fix the problem.

the rakes can only move the ice if the tray has been heated .. there is a heater mounted on the tray that may be bad or not getting power . here is the sequence that should happen

the water solonoid operates to fill the tray (you should hear it click when this happens) .. then the tray is left alone until the cubes have frozen .. then the heater comes on to free the cubes from their mold then the rake operates to scoop out the ice .. the rake cant move the cubes unless they have first been freed by the heater .. it sounds like you have power (rakes moved) but its not clear if the water fill function is working .. even if it wasnt, if you filled the trays then it should still work but you would have to wait for the complete sequence .. you can feel the heater get hot at the right time if its working (just before the rakes move) .. its a bent tube structure mounted on the ice forming pickets .. be careful it can get pretty hot .. i cant tell but if several things are not working like it doesnt fill with water and the heater doesnt come on ever then that sounds like a connector not fully connected or damaged .. or perhaps a bad (new) module (broken solder connection or otherwise damaged) .. .. you can check the heater with an ohmmeter . it should read low resistance between hot terminals .. and open from ground to either terminal ..(power off and disconnected of course) .. make sure the heater is indeed plugged in ..

Try replacing
the icemaker unit. I used Supco model RIM943 and its working great. Found it online for $55 on line.

My Viking 48" ice maker has given me a little trouble too. The first ice maker assmble was replaced under warranty. It only came with a one year warranty so when it just went out again I thought I would take a look. Just like you I had no ice. It only take two screws to remove the ice making unit and a quick discount plug. I read up on the unit to trouble shoot it. My Ice maker had the ejection forks stuck in the down (in the ice cubes) postion indicating the unit was out of sync and needed to be completly replaced.

On another note:

I also had a proble with the flapper ice cube door on the outside ice dispenser. Ice cubes would get stuck in the door and would not drop into the cups. This was a lot tougher to fix, but I like figuring things out. Turns out I had some ice that got stuck in the flapper and some how it melted and froze back up to lock the flapper. When the motor came on it sheard a shear pin in a coupling just off the drive motor. I made a home made shear pin and put it back together and all work great now. It was a bit of work to take it all apart and to tell that the motor was good and the relay was working right.

Your product is an IDI (In Door Ice the bucket is in the door) or a Non-IDI? By the way, you mention the Ice maker. The thing is that if the ice maker is not runnning then you don't have ice to dispense and obviously the fact that the motor is working or not is irrelevant. So that's why I suppose that the problem is not the ice maker but the trajectory of the cubes from the bucket to outside of the door.

In the Non-IDI sometimes it happens that the safes in the bucket jump the locks were the bucket resides so the auger motor (the one that move the shaft so you get the Ice) is still running but you can't get ice because the bucket is not in the right position. Just try to relocate the bucket.

You can see if the motor is moving the shaft pressing the light switch that is at the top of the freezer. Then dispense, when you press the switch the main board thinks that the door is closed so you can dispense and see if the motor is moving the shaft.

Other failure mode is the flapper door, it depends if the dispenser works with full electronics or if it's an electromechanical dispenser. Full electronics dispenser use a stepper motor to move the flapper door so the failure is that when you press the pad and the flapper door is closing, if you press it again then it get stucked, the motor dispense but the flapper door is closed. With electromechanical dispenser, maybe is the dashpot mechanism.

If any of these solutions couldn't fix your problem please tell me. I think that I can solve this particular problem.

I have a GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by Side refrigerator that makes plenty of ice but will not dipense when the lever is pushed. The dispenser makes not sound when engaged. What do you think the problem is.

I had the same problem, then it quit dropping cubes entirely.
The problem seems to be a failing linear actuator.
I'm unable to locate a replacement part, hopefully someone can help us.

Linear Actuator info:
Thermotion
115 volt