My heater is sparking where the on/off switch is (inside) It is an older model. But has been a great heater. The part is 13A/125 250VAC 8861.7 Would you happen to have this part. I have an electrician who can fix it. TX

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That could mean that there's a wiring fault (short-circuit). Unplug the unit from the wall socket and see if the breaker closes again.

If so: check the building wiring (get a certified electrician!)
If not: the heater wire is probably the cause. If it's a new unit, you should return it to the store for exchange. If you have no more warranty, have someone with electrotechnician skills replace the wire.

The rotary switches are only offered to Original Equipment Manufacturers. They are not available for replacement parts or from distributors
http://www.towermfg.com/rswitches.htm

Im looking for exactly the same thing. Any luck locating it?

You posted 2 questions.
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One question says black wire is sparking is inside water heater, and this question says black wire is sparking inside the panel and is posted under WH40 water heater timer.

If wire is sparking, then it is not attached firmly, or wire is not attached correctly, or there may be too many amps drawn across the terminal.
WH40 has 40 amp terminals and will handle all residential water heaters.

Open following links for instruction how to avoid sparking, and avoid fires inside timer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-Intermatic-timer.html#fire
Open following link to see how to apply wire nut:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-twist-electric-wire.html

You have a triple switch that controls bathroom heat, fan, light combo.
When lights are off inside room, and you flip the heater switch, you see a flash of light inside the switch.

The switch is mounted in electrical box. If flash is inside the box where electric wires are, then that is NOT normal and should be looked after by checking connections and securing wire nuts.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-twist-electric-wire.html

If the flash is inside the switch, then that can be normal. But it also might be time to replace switch if switch is old.
What happens inside a switch is that 2 brass connectors come together.
The amp draw from heater is large, so a lot of electricity suddenly passes across the brass connections and produces a flash of light.
If flash is accompanied by a sound, for example crackling or fizzing, and/or you smell electrical burning, then that indicates the switch needs to be replaced.

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you dont say what model if microwave most models is 13a supply if single built in oven 13a also ok double oven needs 30a supply/ hope this helps

As you probably know by know Marvin is no longer in business. The original supplier of the electrical switches was tower mfg. They will not sell to distributers or supplies due to chance of legal matters, they will only sell to oem's. We have looked extensively and have found one supplier at present, if you find on please let us know. The switches we have purchased are 120VAC 13A and have exact mounting, one tab one screw with press in wire connectors. The only difference is this switches' stem is 5mm shorter. This means the bottom outside of the original control knob must be shaved 1/4" this will make for a perfect fit and will make this knob the same thickness as thermostat knob. This switch sells for $6.95 plus postage and comes with directions for modifications.

getting fuel and spark it HAS to light unless there is water in the fuel. does fuel spray out of the nozzle?