While using the elliptical there is a persistent knocking noice in the fly wheel area with each rotation. It seems to be at the bottom of the rotation. How do I fix it?

Before you try removing flywheel look for wear on the outside shrouds covering the fly wheel area and adjust if need be. If you need to remove flywheel you have to remove the arms first before taking off flywheel shrouds to exspose inners this project will take you some time

check the sprocket sometimes they are put together with screws and it might be extruding out and rubbing.

check the rear hand brake in the drum. they are prone to undo the the pin that holds the hand brake shoe in place. when the pin falls out it can make a knocking sound as the pin is being hit and can cause damage to the shoe and drum. you will need to take the drum off and check shoe and change the pin/pins...

I have a iron man cdt elliptical that was clunking . I found a shaft on the end of the crank was slipping in and out, inside the bearings. I shimmed it and retightened the retaining washer which prevented it from slipping . Smooth as silk now. It was very frustrating because all seemed tight at first.

First, check the ramp area. A ramp with worn groove marks can become quite noisy. It could also be coming from a bearing in one of your wheels. If the noise seems to be coming from the rear of the machine, attempt to lubricate the moving parts and the different connection points. Silicone Spray Lube by SPORTSMITH 9 Oz SPORTSMITH net

It sounds like it could be a faulty bearing in one of your wheels, a worn ramp or a combination of the two. The following link will take you to our Precor page. Please reference your model and serial number. This will allow you access to the correct parts and manuals for your machine.

Precor Elliptical EFX Repair Parts Belts Wheels Pedals SPORTSMITH net

It could be the input drive bearings going out. I would suggest removing the back side covers of the unit and inspecting the drive assembly when its in use. Watch for deviations in the the circular motion of the crank arms. If it moves side to side or drops in the rotation its time to have the input replaced.

E1 error seems to indicate that the servo which controls the elliptical resistance is stuck. Here is how I fixed this (without using a "crank puller", which would be quicker by far).

You will need a very short phillips screw driver (snub nose), a long phillips screw driver, an allen key set, and crescent wrench.

- Remove the batteries from the unit.
- Remove the screws from the plastic housing (with the long phillips screw driver) on the left side. Do not forget the phillips screws at the front - they are smaller screws so don't mix them with the others. This will allow the plastic housing to flex and move around, but not come entirely off.
- Using the crescent wrench, remove the nut holding the left pedal to the crank. Carefully note the order of the washers on the crank attachment.
- Using the allen key, remove the little pedal attachment piece on the left crank arm.
- Using the short phillips screw driver, carefully reach inside the plastic housing on the top and remove the four screws holding the plastic plate on the outside of the fly wheel/crank. You will need to rotate the crank wheel to reach each of the four screws in turn on the inside of the case.
- Pull off the plastic cover for the wheel.
- Reinsert batteries and gently help the revealed cable (bottom) retract the magnet plate. In my case, the servo worked fine again after helping it retract the magnet plate that was somehow stuck/wedged.

Reverse steps to re-assemble.

i suspect the bearings have gone
hope this has helped :)

I had the same problem. Put vasoline on the wheel handle.
No more noise!