Looking for a wiring schematic for mt27. Temperature cold control fails to close and upon removal found loose wire (fem quick-connect) piggy backed off control. Would like to see what this goes to.

there is no need to go any where near the fuse box
trailer shops and tow bar fitting shops sell a piggy back harness where you pull the plug of the back of a tail light and the piggy back connect plugs in with the car harness plugging into the back of that piggy back plug
run the wires out to the trailer connection and connect as per the wiring numbers instruction
quick easy and for most part fool proof

quad posted, do we get 5 now?

Might be a broken wire going down to the washer portion. I found that once on a stack dryer: Remove the control panel and look for a loose quick connect or broken wire.That was what was wrong with this un I think. Drop the splash pannel first then remove the screws to control and drop it out then check quick connects and wires is what I would do. -PawPaw


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I cannot find a wiring diagram from where I am located right now, but I do know that the black wire coming from the power cord goes to the top side of the motor when you have it laying upside down with the cover off, and it will go to the tab towards the back of the vacuum. Sometimes they put a black dot beside the tab and if that is there you put your wires from the power cord on those. You will also have two wires coming from your light bar in front and the white wire will usually have a piggy-back terminal that your white wire from the power cord attaches to as well. If there are no black dots beside the terminal tabs the white wires will connect to the bottom terminal on the opposite side from the black power cord wire. It will usually be on the lower side of the motor as well. The black wire from the light bar will go on the remaining terminal tab as there is usually only three tabs on the motor. I will check back later this week to see if this has helped you and if not I should be able to get a diagram this weekend.

I had the same problem after not paying attention to the connections when replacing my motor. I spent days searching for information and only found several non-answers with small photos that no one can read.I contacted Oreck for wiring information. They explicitly stated that they can't provide any wiring information for safety and liability reasons.

I found the Ametek schematic which shows the LINE and TAP locations on the motor.

Note: I have a 2600HH XL with 2 headlights.

Connect as follows:

3A, LINE: White lead w/piggy back terminal from light harness #1 & white lead from the power harness to the piggy back terminal
2A, TAP: Black lead from light harness #1
3B, LINE: White lead w/piggy back terminal from light harness #2 & black lead from the power harness
2B, TAP: Black lead from light harness #2

All the thing's your having problems with are controlled by the computer's an communication network . (FEM) - front electronic module , insturment cluster , (REM) - rear electronic module. etc... It's probably a loose ground connection somewhere . The headlamp switch is a electronic input to the insturment cluster , the insturment cluster is hooked to the SCP - serial data network . The insturment cluster electronic's (computer ) microprocessor sends a message to the (FEM) to turn on light's , the front electronic module will then suppy a ground to the headlamps circuit turnning on the headlamps. Samething for the wipers an turn signals an horn too .
010 Ford SCP Communications
From looking at a wiring diagram i would look at ground connection G-304 . Do you know what a body ground is ?
This ground is located How to troubleshoot headlights intermittently on and off with headlights...

1down vote Basically your headlamps are controlled by a computer. The Front Electronic Module (FEM) to be exact. The FEM grounds the headlamps when it wants to turn them on. This system was an early Multiplex design that reduced wire and total circuits where the modules communicate on a single serial line, now referred to as the CAN Bus (Controller Area Network). You will likely need a scan tool to diagnosis the car, and not a cheap one, but a professional model. You many even need a factory scan tool, though I doubt if for a Ford. Outside of security theft deterrent systems they allow the aftermarket professional scan tools to access their systems.
So where do you go from here? With or without a scan tool, the grounds are a good place to start.
G303 are the main ground for the FEM.
G304 is connected via C179 (C means connector) and through S139 (S means splice)
G304 is located behind the LH cowl panel C179 is located behind the LH side of the instrument panel S139 Dash panel to headlamp junction, near T/O to C192 Front Electronic Module (FEM)
You can see the FEM, G304, and C179 in the picture below. Outside of checking the connections and wiring there is not much you can do without a scan tool.

HI, You will need to check the oven sensor wires that link the actual sensor to the main control board. Make sure that the contacts are connected properly, and not loose, or corroded. If all the wiring checks out, test the sensor for the correct resistance readings.(you will need a multimeter for this test)

The most common oven sensor should be approximately, 1100 ohms when at room temperature. The others may be close to as follows:

100°F - 1143 ohms
200°F - 1350 ohms
300°F - 1553 ohms
350°F - 1654 ohms
400°F - 1753 ohms
500°F - 1949 ohms

If the sensor test is adequate, and the wiring is Ok at the control, this will lead to a failed control board. replace the control in this case.

Sensor location

The sensor is, generally, located inside the oven, mounted on the back wall, on the top right, or left corner. There will be two screws holding the housing on the back of the oven wall. Once the screws are removed, the sensor will need to be extracted from the back side of the unit.

HI, You will need to check the oven sensor wires that link the actual sensor to the main control board. Make sure that the contacts are connected properly, and not loose, or corroded. If all the wiring checks out, test the sensor for the correct resistance readings.(you will need a multimeter for this test)

The most common oven sensor should be approximately, 1100 ohms when at room temperature. The others may be close to as follows:

100°F - 1143 ohms
200°F - 1350 ohms
300°F - 1553 ohms
350°F - 1654 ohms
400°F - 1753 ohms
500°F - 1949 ohms

If the sensor test is adequate, and the wiring is Ok at the control, this will lead to a failed control board. replace the control in this case.

Sensor location

The sensor is, generally, located inside the oven, mounted on the back wall, on the top right, or left corner. There will be two screws holding the housing on the back of the oven wall. Once the screws are removed, the sensor will need to be extracted from the back side of the unit.

Hi,

F4 in Fisher Dishwasher -F4 indicates that there has been no temperature increase detected for 2 hours while the element is on.



Possible causes are,

The element is not connected, broken wires.

The element has failed in an open circuit. Element blown.

The temperature sensor has failed. Unlikely as water is cold.

The electronic controller has failed. Possible as this supplies the power to the element.



In essence, you are looking at either a faulty element, broken wires or a faulty control board.


Let me know, if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

The kit should just be a heater that piggy backs off the 2 wires going to your cold controle or thermostat. orange and black go back on the cold control with the heater piggy backed. The kit heats the cold control to make it think its warmer in the room or box than it is so it will run long enough to keep frezer frozen.