The white plastic sleeve has come loose from the lower section of one leg so that the bottom section of one leg no longer "blocks" on full extension. It slides all the way out of the larger section above it. I cannot locate any diagrams on line. Can you tell me how to fix this or do you have diagrams that show how to place the white sleeve?

Usually the cuff ribbing is cut double the required length plus doubled seam allowances (ie 3" x 2 = 6; add two 5/8" for seams = 1.25"'; equals 7.25" long). It is doubled so when it is folded in half and stitched to the leg, there will be no seams showing outside). The width of the ribbing is probably an inch or so shorter than the leg bottom--it should be large enough for the foot to fit through but tight enough that it hugs (not squeezes) the leg.

Sew the cuff together lengthwise to make a circle. Fold it in half with the stitched seam inside. Then fold the circle widthwise with the seamline at one end. Mark the halfway point opposite the seamline. Then fold in half again with the seamline and the first pin matching together. Mark the other two ends. You've divided it into equal fourths. Repeat the same procedure marking the pajama leg in fourths. Then match the seamline of the ribbing to the seamline of the leg (right sides together). Match the other three marks on the cuff to the three marks on the pajama leg bottom. You'll have the stretch the ribbing because it should be a bit smaller in circumference than the leg bottom. Stretch the ribbing to match the leg bottom and stitch the ribbing and leg bottoms together. Turn right side out.

How to Attach Knit Cuffs to Sleeve Shirt Sleeves

sewing with knit fabric how to sew sleeve cuff with knit fabric


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With the full weight of the motorcycle resting on the jiffy or side stand when it is placed in the full forward and down position it will lock into this position when the bike is leaned over the left side. If it is not in the fully down and forward position and on a flat/level and firm/solid surface when it is leaned over to the left side the bike may fall down.



To Remove the Jiffy Stand

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Block and support the motorcycle under frame to be sure that it is securely upright and level and so that the jiffy stand can be moved throughout its full range of travel and so that it will not fall down or onto the repair person when the jiffy stand is removed.

Then move the jiffy stand to the retracted i.e. up position and remove the ****** nut and leg stop from the threaded end of the jiffy stand leg and then move the jiffy stand leg to the full forward position which is the full down position and grasp the end of the jiffy stand spring as close to the frame tube as possible, and then twist and turn the end with needle nose pliers to unhook it from the frame hole. THEN remove the jiffy stand leg from its bracket, inspect the entire jiffy stand assembly for worn or damaged parts and replace them as found necessary.



To Install the Jiffy Stand



First lubricate the jiffy stand leg with an Aerosol Anti-Seize Lubricant but only in the area of the jiffy stand leg part that rotates within the bracket. THEN insert the threaded end of the jiffy stand up through the bottom of the bracket and with the jiffy stand in the full forward position, partially install the spring end into the frame hole and with a rap to the spring with a rubber mallet fully seat it in its hole. Be careful to insert the end of the spring into the hole at the front of the jiffy stand leg piece in front of the jiffy stand leg piece weldment because if it is inserted from the rear of the hole in the leg piece the coil of the spring will interfere with and rub on the leg piece when the jiffy stand is used and if it is installed incorrectly over time it will wear and the motorcycle could fall over due to this wear. THEN while holding the jiffy stand leg at the full forward position, install the leg stop over the threaded end with the stamped side down, install the ****** nut and tighten it to 43-53 ft-lbs which is 58-72 Nm. NOW verify that the longer side of the leg stop faces towards the rear of the motorcycle, extend and retract the jiffy stand leg several times to verify that it operates properly, freely moving to both the full up and the full down positions with no spring or other interference or contact and verify that the rubber stop is correctly in place on the jiffy stand prong because without the rubber stop correctly in place the stand will make improper contact with the lower frame tube when the jiffy stand is retracted and will then likely chip and/or nick the powder coat. AND, of course if the rubber stop is deteriorated or missing. Replace it with a new one. FINALLY carefully remove the support blocking from beneath the motorcycle frame and let the motorcycle rest on the fully extended jiffy stand leg.

Hold the frother arm and pull the lower section off (It is in two pieces ) With the lower part off use a chopstick or something similar to push the small plastic nozzle out from the lower section,push from the narrow end .It will come out with a click,you will probably find it is blocked with dried ?congealed milk. Leave it to soak inhot water/wash up liquid and then use a nail brush to clean it also clean inside nozzle . Press nozzle back into sleeve untill it clicks into place and replace

1. Disassemble the plastic container and douser cover
2. Disassemble uper burr holder and take out 3 springs too.
3. Disassemble the legs of grinder and bottom plate
4. Disassemble the wires and swich(before disassembling be sure that you marked each wire)
5. Unscrew the bottom plate of electro motor (2 screws you live just released)
6. Take one METRIC BOLT M8 30 mm length and screw it in middle of bottom plate(it will pull the plate out slowly)
7. Block the lower burr holder and unscrew the bolt in it. Instead that bolt you put one longer bolt (3-4cm longer)
8. You stabilize the base of grinder and start to hit with hammer the bolt, each hitting will pull it bit down, you should move it 12 mm lower to get it out.
9. Once when you have it out you can also change the bearings at your grinder not only revising the lower plate.

PS: Carefully with the pin in axis, it comes out easy, also it goes through bearing with rotor together. - I think i prescribed all stages of demoting the grinder motor(except windings) if you go for mounting with this manual only back ways i think you will succeed to put it back in function.

If the leg lock is still there in one piece, should be no issue. If you notice, the leg lock covers bothe an upper part of the leg and a smaller diameter lower part. Take a socket (8mm if I remember corectly) and barley tighten the nits on the bottom half of the locfk. Loosen and tighten nuts until rasing and lowering leg is no issue.

They go in the lower section of the door panel to prevent it from bowing and popping. If you look at how the insulation is cut you will see, I think they face sideways. You may also have an imprint on the sheetmetal of the door about 4" up from bottom if I recall

1. Disassemble the plastic container and douser cover
2. Disassemble uper burr holder and take out 3 springs too.
3. Disassemble the legs of grinder and bottom plate
4. Disassemble the wires and swich(before disassembling be sure that you marked each wire)
5. Unscrew the bottom plate of electro motor (2 screws you live just released)
6. Take one METRIC BOLT M8 30 mm length and screw it in middle of bottom plate(it will pull the plate out slowly)
7. Block the lower burr holder and unscrew the bolt in it. Instead that bolt you put one longer bolt (3-4cm longer)
8. You stabilize the base of grinder and start to hit with hammer the bolt, each hitting will pull it bit down, you should move it 12 mm lower to get it out.
9. Once when you have it out you can also change the bearings at your grinder not only revising the lower plate.

PS: Carefully with the pin in axis, it comes out easy, also it goes through bearing with rotor together. - I think i prescribed all stages of demoting the grinder motor(except windings) if you go for mounting with this manual only back ways i think you will succeed to put it back in function.

Check the Vibration damper rods to be sure that...
1. They are there and mount is solid.
2. If they are broken in 1/2.
3. The plastic knuckle mounts are not missing/broken.
4. There is oil in the shock absorber/spring section of the rods.

Also - there are suspension springs on the bottom of the tub that could be broken and/or missing.

Replace/repair as necessary.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

The reservoir is in the back of the fridge compartment behind the bottom crisper. The inlet and outlet tubes are permanently crimped into the resevoir. I cut them off, drilled out the inlet and outlet on the reservoir, and then used hose clamps when reinstalling.

On the velbon vgb 3, the leg locks consist of a lever, one or two pieces of metal and a plastic piece. The metal and plastic pieces rest in a depression against the lever. When the lever is pulled out, pressure against the smaller leg section is released. When the lever is pushed in, pressure against the smaller leg section is exerted, locking the legs in place. On the back side of each joint, there is a phillips head screw which acts as a stop to keep the leg section from coming all the way out. When the screw is backed out, the leg section can be removed, exposing the latching mechanism. If the only problem is that the latch mechanism came apart, it can simply be reassembled. If, however, something broke and allowed the latch assemby to come apart, that will have to be dealt with as well. My guess is that the phillips screw may have become loose, and the latch came apart.