My custom built computer has a the m7vig400 installed and i can't formatt my new harddrive because the fan on top of my processor will not come on why ? it came on with a 16 head hard drive how do i correct this prlobelm?

- Stop Overclocking your CPU.
- Make sure your Heat Sink is placed properly above the processor.
- Clean the Processor fan, Heat Sink and other peripherals.
- Use High Speed fans.
- Use CPU Heat Sink Paste in the processor.
- Fix OS registry with reliable program like I always use Reginout.
- Shut down your computer atleast two hour a day.

Let's diagnose from your statements;

A) No display on monitor

B) Harddrive activity LED is on

C) Fan keeps running. Assume your reference is to the computer case fan. IMHO if it was a reference to the Processor fan, you would have stated so.

D) Power Supply changed. Assumption is that it is KNOWN to be good......

A1) Following a diagnostic flowchart, you would rule out the possibilities of a problem, one by one, and step by step.

No display on the monitor can mean a lot of things, however with the additional information we can narrow it down further....

B1) The Harddrive activity LED is on. The way you made the statement, makes me think you are referring to it is CONSTANTLY on.

Reason?
Harddrive is in an endless loop. BIOS is trying to find the Boot record on the Harddrive.
However for some reason it isn't finding it.

C1) Fan keeps running....
This leads me more to believe the reference is now, to the Processor Fan.
Processor fan running at high speed.

D1) When someone states they 'Changed' the Power Supply, instead of Replaced the Power Supply, this leads me to believe the reference is to another Power Supply that was laying around, and not a new Power Supply.

Therefore makes me want to ask;
"How do you know the Power Supply is indeed good?
All 3 main voltage power rails are good?
3.3 Volt, 5 Volt, and 12 Volt? (DC)"

A Power Supply with a weak voltage power rail, will show the symptoms you are seeing.
Why?

1) If ALL of the LED's (Light Emitting Diode) were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 130 Watts of power.
Just depends on what Processor it is.

No Processor running, no 'Brain'
No 'Brain' running, no computer.

You press the Power On button. This plastic assembly then presses against a Power On switch, located inside it.

The Soft Power On circuit is activated. This 'excites' the Power Supply, and turns it on.
The first chipset to receive power is the BIOS chipset.
The Basic Input/Output System program is initialized.

BIOS looks to see what devices are connected, does a Ram Memory count, TURNS THE PROCESSOR ON, and hands the computer over to the Operating System.
(In this case the O/S is some version of Windows)

Processor is NOT turning on. No 'brain' operating to find the Boot record on the Harddrive.
Harddrive spins in an endless loop.

Power Supply is KNOWN to be good? Came out of a working computer?
Power Supply is a new one?
Still doesn't mean it is good. Test the 3 main voltage power rails, with a multimeter.

Assuming the Power Supply IS indeed good......

Clean out the inside of the computer.
Replace the Thermal Paste on the Processor (CPU)
Make SURE you are following Anti-Static Procedures.
[The CPU (Processor) is the MOST susceptible hardware component to Static shock ]

However, after replacing the Thermal Paste, do not plug the Power Supply into power.

Press the Power On button in, and hold in for a count of 10 seconds.
Let go.
Do this procedure 2 more times.
What you are doing is clearing CMOS Error Codes, and resetting BIOS Setup back to the factory default settings.
The former matters, not the latter. Just telling you the 'whole story'.

NOW plug the Power Supply into power. WAIT 1 minute, turn the computer on.

Post back in a Comment with the results. Or click on Reply at end of solution, and post results.

Need guidance in replacing the Thermal Paste on the Processor (CPU)?
Post the computer manufacturer name, and model number.
The Model Number can be found on the Back of the computer, or up on the side of the computer tower.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3071621&CatId=503

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/274

Regards,
joecoolvette

parts desktop computer are keyboard,mouse,monitor, and cpu which consist of motherboard,memory card,videocard,hard drive,processor,system fan and processor fan.

If your computer is very slow then first of all try troubleshooting it from the first.
Computer gets slow due to many reasons , such as Viruses,Mal ware,Trojans and many more.Also the speed of your processor plays an important role

So first of all scan your system with good and updated anti viruses.

After that if system is slow then try De fragmenting your system. When you open "My Computer" "Right click" any drive and click "Properties"
Select "Tools" tab from above. Click on "De fragment now" and click "De fragment" This will arrange the files properly on your system and give a boost to your system. Try De fragmenting all drives.

After the above steps you are not satisfied then Remove unnecessary installed programs form your computer.You can do this from the control panel in that select "Add remove programs" and remove unwanted programs.

After this all steps your system is slow then you have to change your Processor or replace the mother board this will surely improve your system's speed

Hope the above information will be helpful to you.
Thank you for using Fixya

Hi,
The winding noise can be caused due to three components on the computer. The power supply fan, the Processor fan or the harddrive.

You run the built in diganostics to isolate if the fans are making the noise.
1. Restart your computer
2. Tap on the F12 key a couple of times when you see the Dell logo screen
3. High light boot to utlity partision using your down arrow key
4. Hit enter and select diagnostics
5. In the diagnostics menu select customer test and run the test on the fan.

If the test pass you need physically check , opening the chassis and which fan is making the noise and replace the same.


Thanks for using Fixya
Proton

You didn't state which version you have, Slimline, Mid-Tower, or Desktop.

I'll give you the link to the Dell Dimension E310 Service Manual, and we'll go from there,

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim3100/en/sm/index.htm

FIRST:
Computer off, unplug the power cord from the surge protector, FIRST, then unplug the power cord from the back of the power supply. (Back of computer)

Unplug all cables connected to the computer. If you are not 100 percent sure where they plug into, now is the time to make yourself a chart, and add notes.

Work on a table, open the computer case.

(Cover Release Latch button on the rear of the computer, top side. The Right side cover opens.

Tilt it out, lift it up to remove. Or on the Service Manual main page, scroll down to Removing the Computer Cover, and left-click on it)

With the computer cover open TOUCH the metal frame of the computer case, to relieve your body of Static electricity.
(Static can fry out your computer's hardware components, and you probably won't see it, or feel it)

1) The Floppy Disk cable has to be partially removed.

2) The Processor's Heatsink Assembly has to be removed.

3) The SATA harddrive cables, need to be slipped out of the top of the Fan assembly cage's, squeeze connectors.
(This will make more sense, once you view the SATA harddrive's cables, and where they go across the Fan Assembly)

4) Then you can access the Fan Assembly, to get to the Fan.

A) With this Dell Dimension model, you have to remove the Floppy Disk flat ribbon cable, to access the Heatsink assembly, that sits on top of the Processor.

Remove it from the Floppy Drive ONLY. (Not shouting) Leave the cable connected to the motherboard.

You also have to slip the Floppy Disk's flat ribbon cable, out of the connector tang, that is on top of the Processor's Heatsink assembly.

(Flat steel tang, that is part of the Heatsink Assembly's frame, or cage. Pull up on the side that faces the rear of the computer, slip the Floppy Drive cable out)

This information is more easily seen, if you view the illustrations for - Removing a Floppy Drive.

On the main page of the Service Manual, scroll down to Removing and Installing Parts, and left-click on it.

On this page scroll down the left column, and left-click on - Floppy Drive

B) Removing the Processor Heatsink Assembly:

The Processor Heatsink Assembly is essentially a U shaped metal cage, that has a Heatsink attached to it.
There are 2 screws that hold the front of this metal cage down, and when removed, the cage itself tilts towards the Back of the computer.

(You may have to remove the Power Supply, to access the top screw of the Heatsink cage, or use an Offset screwdriver)

The tangs are triangular shaped, and are on the bottom of the metal cage, towards the Front of the metal cage.

The metal rectangular cage tilts back on two pivot pins, then it can be lifted up, and off.

In Removing and Installing Parts, left-click on Removing the Processor, for illustrations. (Or scroll down the page to this heading)

C) Removing the SATA harddrive cables, out of the connectors on top of the Fan Assembly:

This can be more readily seen by clicking on -
Installing a Harddrive, in Replacing and Installing Parts.

D) Now you can access the Fan.
The Fan is inside a shroud. The shroud is held to the Fan Assembly cage by plastic tangs, that are part of the shroud.

The tangs go through slots on the plastic Fan Assembly's cage.

The tangs are squeezed in, so that the hook end of the tang is able to slide out of the slot.

(It may be that the tang is pried towards the outside, so that it will clear the slot)

It's a lot of fun(?) trying to keep to tangs squeezed, so that you can slip one side of the Fan shroud, out of the slots.

This should release tension so that the other side's tangs will be able to slip their corresponding slots.

Buying a replacement fan will require a little homework, and searching various websites that offer a compatible sized fan. (Or peruse your local Mom and Pop computer repair shops)

You need to know the diameter of the Fan, as well as the thickness, (Or depth), of the shroud that surrounds the fan.

Also what type of connector it uses. 2 pin, 3 pin, or 4 pin.

The size of a fan, and the thickness of a Fan shroud, are usually stated in Millimeters. If you use the Inch system, go online, and use a free Millimeter to Inch Converter.

Here is one example, of a website that offers computer case fans,

http://www.directron.com/casefans.html

BEFORE you reinstall that Processor Heatsink Assembly! (Not shouting)

You MUST clean the top of the Processor's case, and the bottom of the Heatsink that sits on the Processor.

You will either see Thermal Paste, or a Thermal Pad.

If it is a Thermal pad, remove it, throw it away.
They are Junk, and cannot be reused!

I use an old credit card to scrape the top of the Processor's case, and the bottom of the Heatsink.
Stiff plastic, and is anti-Static.

I use Isopropyl Alcohol with Q-tips to clean the remaining thermal paste residue off.
(Rubbing Alcohol. 91 percent alcohol, or better is best)
Usually takes quite a few Q-tips, dipped in alcohol to do this.
Both surfaces must be CLEAN!

CAUTION!
Isopropyl Alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE, and burns clean. The flame is virtually colorless. Use in a well ventilated environment, and with no sparks, or flames present.

The top of a Processor's case, and the bottom of a Heatsink are not perfectly smooth. To the human eye they may seem so.

There are microscopic pits, and valleys. These create Air Pockets.
Air is an Insulator, not a Conductor.

Thermal paste fills these voids. Thermal paste is an excellent Conductor, and transfers heat well.

The heat Must be transferred from the Processor to the Heatsink, so that the fan will transfer the heat away, from the fins of the Heatsink.

When a Processor becomes too hot, it turns off. (BIOS turns it off)
This is a Fail Safe feature that is built-in, to keep the processor from burning up.

Yes I think it can be repaired.
Can I tell you what is wrong with the laptop, without physically looking at it myself?

No.
You need to take it to a pro for a diagnoses.

Will tell you that when a Processor becomes too hot it turns off. (BIOS program turns it off)
This is a Fail safe feature built in that keeps the processor from burning up.

How did the laptop become too hot?
Usually falls within three categories, or a combination of them.

1.The laptop Cooling System hasn't been cleaned on a regular basis.

Cooling System:
A) Air Intake Duct,
B) Cooling Fan,
C) CPU Cooling Tube/Heatsink assembly,
D) GPU Heatsink assembly,
E) and the filter located in the output port, of the Cooling Fan's housing.

A, and B above can be cleaned by the user/owner, with a can of compressed air for computers, with the proper procedure.

[AC adapter {Charger} removed if plugged in, and Battery removed FIRST, for One. Compressed air from can must be applied in a correct procedure or damage to the Cooling Fan's bearings may result, for Two. There is more]

C, D, and E, require partial to complete disassembly of the laptop, and advise approached by a professional.

(CPU - Central Processing Unit, or Processor for short.
GPU - Graphics Processing Unit, or graphics chip for short.
Heatsink - resembles a radiator with it's finned setup. Like a radiator, the heatsink is designed to absorb heat, with air flowing over the fins of the Heatsink to dissipate the heat)

2.The laptop user continually blocks the Air Intake Duct.
A. With their clothes, (Sitting on lap),
B.Bed covers, (Sitting the laptop directly on the bed while using it)
C.Sit the laptop directly on a carpeted surface while operating it.

3.Physical Failures:
A.The Cooling Fan bearings are bad. The Cooling Fan no longer operates, or does so at a reduced rate.

B.The Thermal Paste has dried up in-between the CPU, and it's Heatsink. Lack of heat transference from the top of the CPU case, (Processor), to the Heatsink is minimal to zero.

C.The Cooling System for laptops is inadequate to start with.
All the hardware components are compacted into one tiny box. One small fan draws air through the laptop, with small inadequate heatsinks to dissipate the heat.

Add to this that some laptop designers fail to meet the mark, with their cooling system designs.
The laptop may need additional cooling, such as provided with a cooling pad.

The Gateway MX6453 Notebook PC,
uses an AMD Turion 64 X2 processor. [TL-52]

(TL-52. Operates at a maximum of 1.6GHz frequency rate. {1600MHz}
2x - 512MB L2 cache. 800Mhz Front Side Bus)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_AMD_Turion_microprocessors#Dual-Core_Mobile_processors

An AMD processor without cooling. will burn up in a New York minute!
This may be the problem now with your laptop.

Perhaps the laptop was used without the Cooling Fan operating, (Or operating at a less than capacity), and the laptop shut off. (Processor turned off)
Laptop was started again, and again, eventually to never start again.

Could be now that the AMD processor is fried.
If so, the Thermal Paste will need to be properly cleaned off of the CPU Heatsink assembly, and the proper amount of new thermal paste applied, with the installation of a known, good AMD TL-52 processor.

This is all I can offer from your brief diagnoses.

As for the SATA 2.5 inch harddrive you have in the laptop, just buy an external enclosure.

A decent SATA 2.5 inch external enclosure, is around $20.

(The width of the harddrive case in inches.
2 and a half inches, {2.5} for a laptop harddrive.
3 and a half inches, {3.5} for a desktop harddrive)

Remove the harddrive from the laptop, install it into the external enclosure, (Instructions provided with the enclosure), and plug it into any laptop, or desktop computer.

The external enclosure has a USB cable coming from it, that you plug into any USB port on a computer.
(You essentially now have an External Harddrive)
Example,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3743049&CatId=2783

I do not recommend buying another Gateway MX-6453 laptop, and trying to install your harddrive you have now.

Why?
Because when Windows is installed on a computer, it assigns hash values to certain major hardware components, inside the computer.

You may think of these hash values as serial numbers. (They aren't, as no personal information of the computer owner is recorded)

Hardware components such as,
1) Harddrive
2) Motherboard. Or to be more specific, BIOS program, and version.
3) Processor
4) Graphics (GPU)
,and other hardware may be recorded.

You may be lucky, and Windows will want to be Activated again.
You may not.

1.Cooling fans work?
2.No Signal shown on monitor?
3.Harddrive doesn't make any noise? (To explain. Harddrive is inactive. Not spinning, and the arms aren't moving back, and forth across the platters)

Suggest it's a bad power supply. A common occurrence.

Why?
1.Owner fails to keep the inside of the computer clean, and the power supply.

Dust/Dirt/Spider Webs/Lint, you name it, builds up inside. This foreign material clogs up cooling components. Specifically the Processor fan, and Heatsink, plus the power supply fan, and heatsink's inside the power supply.

Result?
Processor heats up. Takes more power to run, until eventually it turns off. (Processor's have a thermal limit. Once this thermal limit is exceeded, BIOS turns the processor off)

Power supply heats up. Fan blades and center hub collects Dust/Dirt, as well as heatsink's inside the power supply. Cooling capacity drops tremendously.

Heat = Wasted Energy. The power supply puts out more, and more power to keep up. Eventually components inside the power supply fail. They burn up. (More on this to follow)

2.Cheap power supply. Cheap construction, and cheap materials used. Pre-built computer manufacturers generally use cheaply made power supply's. Saves them money.

A.Gauge of wiring used inside is too small.
B.Electrolytic Capacitors used are of an inferior design, and of cheap quality.
C.Circuit design is below par.
D.Other components used are of low quality.

So how does a bad power supply still light-lights, and spin fans?

Bad power rail.
Personal computer power supply's put out three main voltages.
A.12 Volts
B.5 Volts
C.3.3 Volts

Electrolytic Capacitors used in a power supply are Filters. They filter the incoming AC electricity, and the rectified DC. When one or more capacitors fail, or are failing, a bad power rail results.

1.ALL the lights uses less than 1 Watt.
2.EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts.

A typical Processor uses 55 to 125 Watts. Depends on which processor it is.

So you see, you can have enough power to light those lights, spin fans, and even spin the harddrive motor, but not enough to turn the processor on. (Or if it does turn on, not enough to keep it running)

You can easily prove it's the power supply at fault, if you have a known, good, power supply to use for a test.
Another 300 Watt unit that has the same power cables. (Should be stated as has at LEAST the same power cables. It can have more power cables, and these just won't be used)

No processor running you get no signal to the monitor. Computer isn't working to give a signal to the monitor.

Computer is quieter than normal, because you don't hear any harddrive noise. No processor running to access the Operating System on the harddrive. (Or programs and applications)

(Windows XP is an example of an Operating System. O/S)

Just for information, this link gives details of the components inside a harddrive. Gives you more info about the Arms, and Platters I referred to above.
Just thought I would include it. It is not advertising for this website, but is included for reference.

http://computer.howstuffworks.com/hard-disk.htm

Green light indicates the monitor is getting power. Nothing coming up on the screen indicates, No Signal.

No signal from the computer. This means the computer itself isn't working.

A bad power supply in the computer can cause this. A bad power supply is the leading cause of desktop computer failure. It is replaceable, and can be done by the owner relatively easy.

You may have a computer tower that the Power light comes on, you hear fan/s spinning, (Including the Power Supply fan), and it sounds like the harddrive is running.

ALL the lights in your computer use less than 1 Watt.
EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts.
A harddrive sitting there spinning in an endless loop, consumes about 2 to 3 Watts.

A Processor uses 51 to 125 Watts. Depends on what Processor it is.

A weak Power Supply will have enough power for lights, fans, and that harddrive sitting there spinning.
It won't have enough power to turn on the Processor.

[No processor operating, then the harddrive sits there spinning in an endless loop, because there is no processor to find the boot sector]

For a test, connect your monitor to a know good computer. See if it works.
Now connect that other monitor to your computer.

The only way to keep it cool is a bigger heat sink or more airflow.

We have mounted fans into the top of the side panel of a PC to draw air out of the chassis which seems to do the trick

Get a QMax cutter and put some holes in the lower half of the right hand panel

Cover the holes with stainless steel mesh glued on with a hot glue gun

That way you create a chimney effect causing cooler air to be drawn in at the bottom and the hot stuff out of the top

If the fans can be mounted above the level of the processor then you have the optimum