My sanivite 3 has a washer connected to the bottom inlet and a sink to the top inlet. when water is run from the sink the system will pump the water out, however when the washer is discharging waste the system fills up and doesnt pump it out then it backups the pipe and floods the kitchen!!!

Check the position of your drain hose in the pipe or sink. It's probably too low relative to the washer tub fill level. You need to make sure that the end of the hose is higher than the maximum fill level of the washer tub. (The pump in the washer can push the water up to 3-5' higher than the washer. So if you have the hose connecting to a drain pipe, it should be at least 3 1/2-4' high if the washer is on the floor. If you have your drain hose directed to flow into a sink, you may need to raise the sink or put a pipe into the sink to raise the drain hose. If you add a drain pipe, you'll need to make sure it won't shift when the washer pumps out the water.)

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

I think it can be done , but it may be against the local code for your area. The obvious concern is back up of sewage in the sink, and washing machine.

2 possibilitiies here.
1- the water inlet valve/s are leaking past the seal as the the washer is stood, remedy, replace the valve/s.
2 If fhe outlet pie is connected toi the sink waste, then water could be syphoning back from the sink into the washer.
Remedy, lift the outlet hose up higher than the bottom of the sink waste outlet.

The washer doesn't pump water in--plumbing water pressure forces it in when the water inlet solenoid opens the valve. Check the water inlet solenoid--they are a common failure point. Look under the front of the washer behind the panel to find it--just trace the water inlet line. It connects directly to it. The valve can be stuck shut or, more commonly, the plastic coil form of the solenoid disintegrates. In any case, just replace it. Don't forget to shut off the water supply valve under the sink before you start work. Hope this helps!

The Sanivite is a gray water pump, does not have a connection for a toilet. It has a pressure chamber inside the pump casing and a float switch at the bottom of pressure chamber. You will find a black rubber membrane which water pressure pushes up on the membrane and turns the unit on and off. It could be that something is stuck at the bottom of the membrane keeping it in the on position the whole time or the membrane might be warped. Also the micro switch may be stuck on the on position. Pry open the lid with a flat head screwdriver and inspect the pressure chamber.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

There is always just a minimal amount of water in the bottom of a dishwasher so that the pump seal does not dry out causing water to run through the pump motor. Usually though it is not visible yet is is possible.

Excess water in the bottom of the tub post cycle are a sign of draining problems however this is a list of what it could be.

1. A partially clogged drain
2. The timer motor is not functioning properly
3. A broken or worn pump impeller
4. Clogged wash arm holes.

Here is what you need to do:

Check your entire drain system. Start at the final outlet and work your way backward to the motor pump connection on the dishwasher.

Suspected areas are.

a. The sink connection outlet is clogged (this can be inside a garbage disposal.

b. The air-gap is clogged in the very top part of the air-gap (Usually located on the back of the sink and is around 3 inches tall) Remove the cover, unscrew the top nut and check under the horse shoe bend inside the plastic top for obstructions. Clean as needed)

c. There is debris on top of the the motor pump housing blocking the inlet drain. (This would be inside the housing of the lower wash arm on the very bottom)

d. The motor pump outlet drain port is partially blocked. (only accessable from the motor pump exit hole after drain hose removal.)

A partially blocked inlet tub drain to the motor pump would also explain why the lower part of the dishes are not getting clean. Additionally you would have spotted dishes post cycle.

When the drain is partially blocked some models use the float level switch in the tub to control the advancement of the timer. If the water does not drain the motor pump continues to run and run and the cycle does not advance until the tub is drained and the float switch senses same. i.e extended cycle
Check under the float assy for debris.

One more thing to check is the lower wash arm holes for debris or obstructions. If the wash arm is retaining water it can drip out after a drain cycle and cause the puddling you noticed.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Dirty dishes post cycle are a sign of draining problems however this is a list of what it could be.

1. A partially clogged drain
2. The timer motor is not functioning properly
3. A broken or worn pump impeller

Here is what you need to do:

Check your entire drain system. Start at the final outlet and work your way backward to the motor pump connection on the dishwasher.

Suspected areas are.

a. The sink connection outlet is clogged (this can be inside a garbage disposal.

b. The air-gap is clogged in the very top part of the air-gap (Usually located on the back of the sink and is around 3 inches tall) Remove the cover, unscrew the top nut and check under the horse shoe bend inside the plastic top for obstructions. Clean as needed)

c. There is debris on top of the the motor pump housing blocking the inlet drain. (This would be inside the housing of the lower wash arm on the very bottom)

d. The motor pump outlet drain port is partially blocked. (only accessable from the motor pump exit hole after drain hose removal.)

A partially blocked inlet tub drain to the motor pump would also explain why the lower part of the dishes are not getting clean. Additionally you would have spotted dishes post cycle.

When the drain is partially blocked some models use the float level switch in the tub to control the advancement of the timer. If the water does not drain the motor pump continues to run and run and the cycle does not advance until the tub is drained and the float switch senses same. i.e extended cycle

One more thing to check is the lower wash arm holes for debris or obstructions.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Dirty dishes post cycle are a sign of draining problems however this is a list of what it could be.

1. A partially clogged drain
2. The timer motor is not functioning properly
3. A broken or worn pump impeller

Here is what you need to do:

Check your entire drain system. Start at the final outlet and work your way backward to the motor pump connection on the dishwasher.

Suspected areas are.

a. The sink connection outlet is clogged (this can be inside a garbage disposal.

b. The air-gap is clogged in the very top part of the air-gap (Usually located on the back of the sink and is around 3 inches tall) Remove the cover, unscrew the top nut and check under the horse shoe bend inside the plastic top for obstructions. Clean as needed)

c. There is debris on top of the the motor pump housing blocking the inlet drain. (This would be inside the housing of the lower wash arm on the very bottom)

d. The motor pump outlet drain port is partially blocked. (only accessable from the motor pump exit hole after drain hose removal.)

A partially blocked inlet tub drain to the motor pump would also explain your soap dispenser problem. Additionally you would have spotted dishes post cycle.

When the drain is partially blocked some models use the float level switch in the tub to control the advancement of the timer. If the water does not drain the motor pump continues to run and run and the cycle does not advance until the tub is drained and the float switch senses same. i.e extended cycle

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

ok with the soap prime the sink before you start it and clean the dish washer.take a table sppon full of tang put it the dispencer and run the unit this will clean the unit

if the unit is properly clean and you have checked the fuse - then i suggest it is the microswitch that needs replacing. these tend to go (break) within 5 years on the sanivite 3 models. If not the swich then it could be the capacitor (try this first - although as the swich is located next to the capacitor you can test this for operation at the same time). if none of this works then its time for a new unit.