Question about Samsung SyncMaster 204B 20.1" LCD Monitor
Alright my monitor is just showing a pale gray screen not really sure whats wrong. I've plugged it into my laptop an I've plugged it into my dell desktop it still doesn' t seem to be working.The pale gray screen is pretty current it flickers a tiny bit every once in awhile but not enough to mean anything. I've tried multiple monitor connections an multiple power cords still the same thing. Does anybody have any idea whats wrong?
I've had at least 4 Samsung SyncMaster 204T monitors with flicker problems. Up till now Samsung has replace under warranty. But the new ones only last a year and then develop the same problem. n7qj's solution worked great for me. Thanks. While I performed n7qj's fix, I documented the process and created a .pdf set of instructions so others can benefit. I wish you the same success.
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
Hi, this problem is the same with the 204B and the 204T. The 204T is the one described in the PDF. The 204B is the same circuit inside (slight difference in the connectors, but everything else the same). The only issue in the 204B is there is no place to "start" the separate of the front plastic from the back plastic. I just started with a Swiss Army Knife using the blade to carefully pry in the "crack" starting at the same place (bottom of the monitor). Just use the knife carefully and the front bezel will "pop" out fo the hooks on the back one, and you can remove the back cover and proceed exactly as the PDF indicates. I used 1000 and 680 uF 35V caps (they fit, and they give the circuit maybe some more tolerance). 204B and 204T worked like new (i repaired both). Great repair description! N3CKF
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
Hi, I just wanted to take a moment and thank n7qj and djonce for the solution to fixing my Samsung SyncMaster 204B monitor.
I saw djonce's reply last night, download his PDF (Thank You very much! With absolutely no previous soldering experience, your fantastic PDF instructions allowed this noob to breath new life into my secondary monitor... IT IS FIXED!!!).
Once I knew what was broken, I googled a bit, went to RadioShack which had both capacitors for $3.18. Including the soldering iron, solder, braided copper for un-soldering and all... this fix still cost me less than $20 for everything. Yes, I'm thrilled!
djonce, check the link to your PDF, right now, it's a 404... but I was able to find it thankfully ;).
Thanks again guys.
P.S. I'll register at this site just to be able to post my thanks.
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
Check our web site at www.ccl-la.com/badcaps.htm We have a free step by step dis-assembly and repair guide posted. The pictures and part number are available to help you get going. By the way there are several versions of the 204B / 204T power supply and our guide covers both.
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
just a few hours ago, I experienced similar problems with my SyncMaster 204Ts. Yesterday, it was working great and today the backlight refused to work. So when I powered it on, the screen remained black. After a few minutes of running, I could see very dim graphics. I then found this website and the linked PDF.
I did exactly what was described. Instead of two 820uF @ 25V I put in a 1000uF and a 680uF @ 25V, replaced the other three capacitors for convenience and it WORKS.
Thank you very much for your effort!
Posted on May 19, 2009
I have a Samsung Syncmaster 204B that had slow start and flicker problems as well as being much dimmer than when it was new.
To n7qj and djonce..THANK YOU!
I brought my monitor to a tv repair guy and gave him the information posted here on the site and he replaced the capicitors and it works like new now and it cost me $75.00 total which is half the price of a new monitor.....I am happy.
Posted on Nov 04, 2009
To n7qj and djonce..
With the fix provided by n7qj, along with the well documented procedure djonce kindly provided, I was able to easily repair my 204T. Note that there was no 'flicker' involved in my case; there was a 'pop' and the panel went blank.
Upon disassembly, I noticed that c110/111 were clearly failed. one of them had actually pushed the rubber plug all of the way out of the bottom of the can and let out the magic black smoke that makes these things work :-)~
I noticed that all the electrolytic caps on the circuit board were from the same manufacturer. Most showed suspicious signs of bulging, so I went ahead and replaced them all. ~$12.00 from Digi-Key, including spares and shipping. Problem solved. I think I paid close to $500 for this thing when new, so NOT BAD.
BSEET, DeVry Institute of Technology, 1994
Posted on Nov 01, 2009
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