Which bolts do i loosen to adjust the 45% angle of my blade? Ive already squared up my blade by using a square and laid it down on the deck and squared the back rail like that> but how do i square it up at a 45% angle in the vertical position

Hello, yes this saw can be adjusted.
To calibrate the table, use a framing square up against the rear fence and see how the blade tracks. To adjust this: loosen the bolts holding the rear fence down and move the fence until it is square with the blade track and tighten.
To adjust the bevel: use a speed square to check for 90deg and 45deg on the blade. Using the 13mm bolts found at the pivot point on the trunnion you can adjust the 90 and 45 degree angles.

To square up a mite saw blade, you need to eeither move the table or adjust it to be square if it is out in the mitre angle, or if it is out in the bevel angle the whole saw head needs to be adjusted, and this is done via the bevel adjustment at the back of the saw. There may be a bevel stop bolt to return the saw back to 90 degrees if moved to a different bevel angle. Usually the blade itself is not adjusted bu either the saw table or the bevel angle of the saw head itself to correct these issues.

you don't adjust anything but the fence if I understand the question correctly. You are using the fence for a straight cut and there is a gap, if so on the back of the saw UNPLUG SAW FIRST you will find a schematic about hhow to adjust the fence but all you have to do is loosen the 2 bolts where the arrows are I believe they are 10MM and lift the guard out of the way then gently run the fence next to the blade and "push" the fence square to the blade and tighten the bolts, usually it takes a couple times (I always recheck it). Now if the blade set at 0 degrees is not square you reset the angle from the front. Let me know if you need more help

look on top of fence
see 4 holes
loosen 4 bolts (probably hex wrench) and fence will loosen also
framing square against loose fence and lowered blade (to calibrate square)
tighten fence,... square to blade

Typically the fence is attached to the table and the table can be angled to create a bevel.

Using a square, align the table so it's square to the blade. Assuming your fence is square to the table vertically, you're good.

With most bandsaws I have worked with, there is a positive stop (typically just a bolt - the head acts as the stop) underneath the table so when you tilt the table, you can return it to flat without having to re-square everything up every time. Once you've got things square, make sure to adjust the positive stop too.

Be aware you may still have to compensate for drift with your fence, though.

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Make sure the blade is 90 deg vertical to the saw table. Make sure the indicator is set approprately. Raise the blade just enough to clear the table/base. Place a swanson speed square against the fence and blade. Make sure the indicator is at 90 degrees. Here you might want to tilt the square and check that the complete blade is flush against the sqaure as high up as possible. Lay the square back flat on the table and pull the blade toward you as much as possible. The teeth on the blade should ride against the square extented completely out.

Now set the square against the fence with the 45 degree angle coming away from the table and set the blade on the 45 deg mark on the insicator scale.
The blade should touch the square all the way out fully extented.

Or just experiment with some scrap and check

User manual for adjusting your saw here.
When you set it up, make sure you check for square to the table, square to the fence, and check square for toe-in or at a 45 deg. angle across the blade from the corner where fence meets table, like you would check a radial arm saw. (hold a framing square with one leg against line of fence/table and other leg against blade and inclined 45 to both table and fence. Make sure all three are dead square.
I never found any way to compensate for the play in the blade itself. It seems like the manufacturing tolerances are a little too loose.

You may need a heavier plated blade. You may simply need a different saw. Those Dewalts are great workhorses, and I love the design, but it's my experience that when you're trying to miter hardwoods of any substantial size there's a little bit of drift in the cut as the blade comes through the wood.
You can try cutting at a slower rate.
I've found that makitas are a little more solid through the cut, though I don't like the general ergonomics as much...
Kind of a pain, isn't it?
Well, good luck.

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put it on a level surface then put blocking ( 2x4s work) under the deck and drop it on the blocking. loosen all the adjusting bols to let it settle squarly on the blocking then re-torque the bolts. Should be level.
If not check you blade berrings as they may be worn and the blade shaft may not be square to the deck

Inside the saw, on the end of the trunnion is a stop that is adjustable to zero the saw in to exactly 90 degrees. Either there is sawdust or something accumulated there or it needs to be adjusted. You say you cleaned it out, So you'll need to unplug it an have a look up in there. See how there's a geared piece of steel that moves when you crank the saw over to 45 degrees. Usually there's a bolt or stud with a locking nut on it, either on the trunnion itself or the lower surface of the table top. You need to break the nut loose and screw the bolt in or out to adjust, then crank the saw over to hit it, check for square with a known square, crank it all the way out of the way and readjust, etc. Until you get it right. Make sure to tighten that lock nut when you're done.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take a moment to kindly rate this post....thanks!

You will have to use a regular square to check out the crafstsman and find out where it is wrong.