WHAT SIZE IS THE INTERNAL FUSE FOR QSC POWER AMPS 1200 WATT

I think you meant 70-0351c?
I believe this is a 60 watt transceiver. So if you remember ohms law P=IxE or power equals amps times volts so 5 amps times 12 volts equals 60 watts. Use a 5 amp fuse.

I've had QSC power amps with internal fuses in the AC power section, and I have seen the fuse holders separate from the board. These were the 2-piece (per fuse) clips that solder to the board and the fuse clips into them. I'm not sure if you are talking about a speaker, a power amp, or a powered speaker, but if it doesn't power up at all, it's probably in the AC Power Supply area.

It probably does, but an in-line fuse is still the safest way to go, connected as close as possible to the voltage source as possible. The internal overcurrent protection device (aka, fuse or breaker) in the inverter will prevent the DEVICE from melting if it malfunctions. An in-line fuse will protect EVERYTHING if the WIRING malfunctions.

The main power fuse for most amplifiers is a fast blow, 125 volt fuse for the US and a 250v fuse in countries with 220v. This unit is 125 watt so the main fuse should be 2 amps or so. The correct fuse size is written on the circuit board next to where the internal fuse was located.

Rule of thumb for 12vdc to 120vac inverters is 1 amp of fuse for every 10 watts of power. So, this one would use a 7 amp fuse.

The 40 amp fuse is too small. 1000 watts = 12 volts @ 83 AMPS. Bigger power wire my friend. If you want to sell, let me know.

Put a generator in the trunk. I am assuming this is RMS watts. This will require modification to the vehicle's electrical system. Lets look at what you are saying. You are going to use two 1200 watt amplifiers, for a total of 2400 RMS watts.

Using a simple rule of thumb based on ohm's law and assuming a little over 80% efficiency in the amps (I doubt it) you divide the total watts by 10 (the cars 12 volts – a fuge), that leaves you a value of 240 or 240 amps required to power the amps at 12 volts DC.

Now consider 20 feet of wire to the battery or forty feet of wire round trip, one for positive and one for negative. a #2 AGW wire, about the size of your finger, will give you a 1.8 volt drop or 7% voltage drop in the wire. Assuming the alternator is maintaining 13.8 (standard charging voltage) that leaves you exactly 12V at the amplifier. This sounds great but the larger alternators only put out about 100 amps so you need 2.4 alternators to supply the current the amps will need. Lets assume a standard car battery is rated at 50 amp hours, that indicates that the battery can supply about 12 minutes of power at full output. Now calculate the rest of the power requirements of the vehicle and what you are short in alternator capacity the battery makes up. I would guess you vehicle battery would be dead in less then ½ hour or you need to keep the volume way down. That indicates a much smaller amp would be a much more cost effective solution.
Good Luck,
Gilshultz

If you are certain speaker isnt blown and you have correct phase wiring and so forth you have whats called a solder jump which is internal repair by dealer only! buy a new amp at dealer wholesale price here cheaper than having it repaired unless under warranty go here for wholesale pricing on almost everything audio wise:
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I'm assuming you mean the power cord. Most of these units use standard power cords. Take it to an appliance parts store to match it. If you can't find the cord you want, extension cords called heavy duty are available. Be sure that the power draw on the label on the cord equals or exceeds that of the unit. Some cords use 'amps'...some appliances use watts. To get amps from watts: take the wattage, divide by volts (typically 120) to get amps. A 1200 watt appliance uses 10 amps. Use the next highest rating.