Dryer drum is not rotating or rotating VERY slowly. Opened the top last night and it worked just fine, then this morning it was back to a slow turn or no turn.

hi all, thanks for your comments. to note, it's my dryer not my washer so the suggested solutions wont work. Also, forgot to note, the unit is only 14 months old and just out of warranty. What I've done so far:
- vacuumed the filter
- striped the dryer, meaning removed top. front and small exhaust panel in the back
- vacuumed everything
- checked the belt, tight, not loose, broken or off the roles
- child safty not enguaged, toggled it anyway to be safe
- the checked micro switch next to belt by motor, not engaged
put it all back, turned on with nothing, tried every setting in auto and manual tied high to low temps and times, the time is noted, such as 40 min, but does not time down, over time, the unit sound the I'm done tone, if left as is, continues to chime then end like it did something. all along, the drum never rotated nor did it heat up.
Does one impact the other, such as if the drum does not roll then the heater wont start or vise-a-versa. Could the control panel have taken a hit or are there sensors that might have shut down to prevent the unit from starting are there fuse's that I didn't see that might have been tripped.

check here http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-start+repair.htm

Open the dryer door and slowly rotate the dryer drum in a counterclockwise (CCW) direction. Rotate the drum 2-3 revolutions and then shut the door and see if it will start. If it continues to just hum and not start could indicate a voltage issue, motor issue or a friction issue. Open the door again and locate the door switch plunger in the upper or lower corner on the hinge side of the drum opening. Hold the plunger in while someone begins rotating the drum counterclockwise. While turning the drum counter clockwise and holding the door switch plunger inwards press the start button. If it starts, there is likely a friction problem or motor problem.

Theres two things to look at, the brushes on the motor, replaceable and cheap, if they are are healthy then there is one or sometimes two large capacitors, these give the motor the ooomf to get it rotating, these fail which is a common problem with washing machines and dryers, again about £5= on ebay.

not nkowing what brand, I would guess its a maytag or one of their brands. It sounds like a screw that mounts one of the paddles inside the drum has backed out and is now poking out the out side of the drum hitting the cabnet as it goes around. Un plug it , pop the top open , rotate the drum clock wise by hand slowly to see if a screw is standing up on drum.
If its a whirpool dryer with the lint filter inside the door, the top cabnet is dented down, hitting the drum.
someone sat on the top, bent it down.

The main bearing may be worn out at the back of the drum allowing the drum to wobble.Reach inside the drum and lift upward. If you can move it up and down this is probably the problem.

if your lint trap is on top of the dryer it may be pushed in too far rubbing the drum....this may not be it but its worth a try

Something has seized the motor. It could be something in the blower(pen pencil, golf tee, you'd be surprised what can get in there). It could also be a seized bearing on the motor. There are electrical things that could have those symptoms but I would check the mechanical ones first. Let me know what you find.
Eric

The drum on my DLG0332W was also making noise at the back of the dryer...kind of a thump thump thump as the drum rotated. My dryer is only 4 years old. I got brave, downloaded the service manual and opened up the dryer. I found that the drum's welded seam was starting to separate where the roller wheels were coming into contact with the drum at the back of the dryer. Looks like a new drum is in order.

First, UNPLUG YOUR DRYER! Now open the dryer door and remove the 2 screws at the door hinges... remove the door and set aside, then remove the 2 screws opposite the hinges. Grasp the front panel near the top, just below the top panel and pull it toward you... do this on both sides. Tilt the panel forward then lift it off of the lower clips.

With the front panel gone, you'll see a 5/16" screw just below the top panel on both sides, top left and right. Remove these and the clips too... now you can lift the top panel like the hood of your car.

To gain further access, remove the 6 (3 on each side) screws holding the front drum support/blower vent panel, then set this aside.

If you want to remove the drum... first, take a flashlight and look closely at how the belt is routed around the idler pulley and the motor shaft. (You'll have to re-route it for reassembly.) Reach in there with both hands, with one hand rotate the spring loaded idler pulley back to release tension off the belt, then with the other hand remove the belt from the motor shaft. Now lift and pull the drum out the front of the cabinet.

Check to make sure the rollers in the back rotate freely. You can remove the rollers, buff the roller shafts with emery cloth, lube the shaft with light oil (like sewing machine oil) and reinstall the rollers. Lube the idler pulley also. Rotate the motor by hand and listen for the squeak you described.

Also check the front drum support panel you removed earlier. The drum rides on this as it rotates... As you are looking at the drum support from the drum side, inspect the 10 o'clock to the 2 o'clock area closely. If the glides (teflon) are worn it'll squeak when it rotates.

Hope this helps. Oh yeah! Almost forgot.... the belt won't squeak at all. It'll be the motor, rollers or drum glides.