When main switch to heater is turned on, only the flame comes on - no heat or blower. Have tried numerous times to reset by turning main switch off for five minutes, but still does not work. Any suggestions?

They are listed inside the front panel of the main unit.
LED CODE
EACH OF THE FOLLOWING STATUS CODES IS A TWO DIGIT NUMBER WITH THE FIRST
DIGIT DETERMINED BY THE NUMBER OF SHORT FLASHES AND THE SECOND DIGIT BY
THE NUMBER OF LONG FLASHES.
STATUS

11 NO PREVIOUS CODE - Stored status code is erased automatically after 72
hours. On RED LED boards stored status codes can also be erased when power
(115 VAC or 24 VAC) to control is interrupted.
12 BLOWER ON AFTER POWER UP (115 VAC or 24 VAC) -Blower runs for 90
seconds, if unit is powered up during a call for heat (R-W closed) or R-W opens
during blower on-delay.
13 LIMIT CIRCUIT LOCKOUT - Lockout occurs if the limit or flame rollout switch is
open longer than 3 minutes.
- Control will auto reset after three hours. - Refer to #33.
14 IGNITION LOCKOUT - Control will auto-reset after three hours. Refer to #34.
21 GAS HEATING LOCKOUT - Control will NOT auto reset.
Check for: - Mis-wired gas valve -Defective control (valve relay)
22 ABNORMAL FLAME-PROVING SIGNAL - Flame is proved while gas valve is
de-energized. Inducer will run until fault is cleared. Check for:
- Leaky gas valve - Stuck-open gas valve
23 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT OPEN Check for:
- Obstructed pressure tubing. - Pressure switch stuck closed.
24 SECONDARY VOLTAGE FUSE IS OPEN Check for:
- Short circuit in secondary voltage (24VAC) wiring.
31 PRESSURE SWITCH DID NOT CLOSE OR REOPENED - If open longer than
five minutes, inducer shuts off for 15 minutes before retry. Check for:
- Excessive wind - Proper vent sizing - Defective inducer motor
- Low inducer voltage (115VAC) - Defective pressure switch
- Inadequate combustion air supply - Restricted vent
- Disconnected or obstructed pressure tubing
- Low inlet gas pressure (if LGPS used)
If it opens during blower on-delay period, blower will come on for the selected
blower off-delay.
33 LIMIT CIRCUIT FAULT - Indicates a limit, or flame rollout is open. Blower will
run for 4 minutes or until open switch remakes whichever is longer. If open
longer than 3 minutes, code changes to lockout #13. If open less than 3 minutes
status code #33 continues to flash until blower shuts off. Flame rollout switch
requires manual reset. Check for: - Restricted vent
- Proper vent sizing - Loose blower wheel - Excessive wind
- Dirty filter or restricted duct system.
- Defective blower motor or capacitor. - Defective switch or connections.
- Inadequate combustion air supply (Flame Roll-out Switch open).
34 IGNITION PROVING FAILURE - Control will try three more times before lockout
#14 occurs. If flame signal lost during blower on-delay period, blower will come
on for the selected blower off-delay. Check for: - Control ground continuity
- Flame sensor must not be grounded
- Oxide buildup on flame sensor (clean with fine steel wool).
- Proper flame sense microamps (.5 microamps D.C. min., 4.0 - 6.0 nominal).
- Gas valve defective or gas valve turned off - Manual valve shut-off
- Defective Hot Surface Ignitor
- Low inlet gas pressure
- Inadequate flame carryover or rough ignition
- Green/Yellow wire MUST be connected to furnace sheet metal
45 CONTROL CIRCUITRY LOCKOUT Auto-reset after one hour lockout due to;
- Gas valve relay stuck open - Flame sense circuit failure
- Software check error
Reset power to clear lockout. Replace control if status code repeats.
If status code recall is needed, briefly remove then reconnect one main limit wire to display
stored status code. On RED LED boards do not remove power or blower door before initiatingstatus code recall. After one status code recall is completed component test will occur.

here is a link copy and paste

https://www.fixya.com/support/t6287232-carrier_8000ts


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This could be a dirty flane sencor of the pressure switch check hoses are tight and not spilt , try jumping out the pressure switch see if that makes it work also check air fliter is clean .

It sounds like your low voltage circuit is open. Here are things to look for that you should be able to find on your own
1) check for a tripped limit switch

Hello, You may have this already solved by now but here goes. If your unit was running at the time of the power outage, you may have a limit switch kicked. This would cause your main blower to run non-stop with no heat. Gas furnaces has a main limit mounted on the wall of the heat chamber. This one should reset automatic when it cools down. Then you have a limit (maniual) reset on the blower casing. This is a small round device with two small wires coming off of it that goes toward the main board. If you can find this limit switch it will have a small button in between the two wires where they attach. Push in this button, if it clicks it should light the flame.There may be another limit on the burner casing. Try pushing this one also. When the power goes out when the flames are on this will build a lot of heat up near the blower causing this limit to kick off. Hope this helps.

Sounds like the unit is triping the limit before the blower comes on. Try puting the fan ON at the thermostat and see how the burners react with a heating call. If they stay on then I would look at the wiring diagram and try and determine what turns the blower on it the heat cycle. is it temperature or time delay through a control board. Hope this helps.

If you have a cracked heat exchanger this will cause the flames to rollout and trip this switch. Its meant to stop the furnace from running and putting carbon monoxide in your home. Watch the furnace as it tries to light if when the gas valve opens and flame is established it should go into the tubes heat the heat exchanger and then your main blower motor will come on. When your main blower comes on is usually when you see the flames rollout and trip that switch. If this happens you can either buy a heat exchanger or new furnace if its a older unit Obama still has that awesome tax credit til 12-31-2010.

The whole assembly must be replaced.

The sequence of operation is -

Combustion fan purges the heat exchanger. A pressure switch verifies combustion air fan is running. Usually a 30-45 second purge before the hot surface ignitor glows, or the spark ignition starts.

Gas valve opens after 10-15 seconds and main burners light. Control board monitors for flame and shuts gas valve after 2-3 seconds if main burner does not light.

If burner does not light, some boards repeat this for 3 tries, then locks out and is reset by cycling power.

Air blower comes on after another 30-45 seconds after main burner ignition.

Times may vary based on the specific controller board. A flow chart and timing sequence should be located somewhere on the unit, usually in the fan compartment.

This sounds like the high temperature switch has failed and is telling the unit to shut down after it gets started, the pilot has to be lit for the main gas valve to turn on when the thermostat calls for heat, The main burner comes on and stays on until the thermostat is satisfied and tells it to shut off, you dont say if there is a blower in this unit, if there is a blower after the main flame comes on the unit heats up it turns on the blower if equiped. If the blower fails to turn on the unit would be shut down on overtemp as the firebox would get to hot and be in danger of causeing a fire. if no blower there still is an overtemp switch that shuts the unit down if it gets to hot or the switch is bad, it could be a bad overtemp switch or if equiped a bad blower motor or even a plugged chimney as this would also cause a overheat ing condition. Hope This Helps Don

The board is bad. The unit thinks a flame is present, so it tells the blower to come on. Replace the board.