I am getting a defrost error on my LG LRBC22522st refrigerator. I checked the heater element and it reads about 70 ohms, but it reads open from the plug on the circuit board from the brown to blue wires. I assume the fuse is blown, but I can't find a fuse.

Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

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This is an error code the computer is telling you. 4 bars usually means it is not defrosting. LG has a thermal fuse/defrost sensor that is usually called a "controller". If I remember right,the two orange will be the sensor and the blue/brown will be the thermal fuse. Unplug it from the cabinet and test it(blue/brown) to see if it is open and if so then replace it.

I think the heater is around 70 ohms for the LG

You will need to remove the evap cover to access it and it is usually located down the right side.

part# is 6615JB2002R

A reading of 27 ohms indicates that the heating element is not open and is good. If defrost cycle is not going on with good element then the problem is with the defrost timer.

probably heating element in freezer is broken.
Remove power and defrost. Remove wall panels in back of freezer to Check heater element behind panels With ohm meter should read 20 ohms or less. You could remove it and bring it to a local repair shop and have them test it and if required order you a new one. If this does not work it may be the control board

it may be low on freon or have a defrost problem. you should check the door seals and gaskets. you

put a sheet of paper between the door and seal all around the door if you can pull it out easily the door

is not sealing properly, look for wor n or torn seals or gaskets, make sure the seal is clean and does

not have any icing, food,liquid on it. remove the evaporator coil cover, if the coils are frosted to the

point that the fan cannot pull air thru it, then it is a defrost problem. try to get it to defrost if the heater

heats up the defrost control needs replacing. if it does not heat up it's either the defrost element

or thermostat. undo the element and check it with an ohm meter should read about 30 ohms. remove

one wire from thermostat and check with an ohm meter , should be o ohms when frozen. it opens

just above freezing. good luck!

The defrost circuit in you freezer has failed that is why you have to defrost the coils. The defrost circuit consists of the heater element, the defrost thermostat and the control module. The control module turns off the compressor and powers up the heating element to melt the ice on the coil, after the coil reaches 40 deg F the thermostat cuts off power to the heater. The heating element and thermostat is mounted to the coil. If you have a multimeter and know how to use one, you can check the thermostat and heater. You can check the heating element with a multimeter to see if it has electrically opened. If it has then you will need to replace it. Check also the thermostat, it should be in series with the heater. It should read close to 0 ohms if it is freezing and read infinite ohms if the temperature is above 40F. If the thermostat and heater check out, the problem might be with the control module.

The main Pcb as well as the defrost thermistor are in the circuit as well.
The thermister is attached to the evaporator with wire ties and connects to the roof of the freezer behind the fan assy.

I have seen the thermister connector pull out of the connector at the top of the freezer beacuse the wires were to tight. Remove some of the wire ties and reinstall the connector.

I think your voltage is fine I just believe the defrost timer is worn out and not cycling properly resulting in less defrost and higher refrigerator temperatures. Thanks, sea Breeze

HI.

• Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater
• Check that the refrigerator is level
• Check the drain pan
• Check the condensor fan
• Check the evaporator fan
• Inspect the compressor mounts

plz do rate this post so i can help others.

Good Luck.

deF error means that you need to defrost the unit. Leave the unit unplugged overnight and defrost completely.