Question about Zanussi 23 in. ZKT641H Electric Cooktop

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I need to know the wiring diagram for the controls on zanussi zce 7700x. i just got a new thermostat which i need to put in but need to put the 2nd oven controls back right . thanks

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Barrett Palumbo

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Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you dont need a wiring diagram, the part should be a direct replacement.. wire for wire..
if not you got the wrong part

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck

Posted on Dec 21, 2010

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1 Answer

Replacing wires on surface element switch(kenmore cooktop)..need to know where they hook up


Usually you can copy wiring from other element. Safest to consult wiring diagram found inside control panel.

Feb 18, 2014 | Kenmore Cooktops

2 Answers

Need a wiring diagram


Most appliances have a wiring diagram inside them. (I know washers, dryers, and fridges do). Have you checked to see if there is one? Usually they are printed on green paper and folded up. Obviously for an oven, they'd have to be away from the heat source. Maybe near the control panel on the back, or if there is a storage drawer on the bottom of the stove, it might be in there, or taped to the back of the drawer.

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I have an Amana smoothtop AK2H35 the large dual burner seems to overheat. It gets so hot, that everything burns, when I turn the temp down, the burner does not turn off, though eventually, it does turn...


Hello there
I will answer this in 2 sections for testing the burners and the thermostate
Surface Burner Testing:

In order to test the surface burner on your electric range, the following steps should be taken:

  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


  2. Remove the surface burner from the stovetop. On most electric ranges this can be done by pulling the burner up and out of its plug-in receptacle. Other models have the burner directly wired to the cooktop. To remove this type of burner, undo the screw that secures the burner to the cooktop, remove the clips that secure the insulators to the burner terminals, and carefully unscrew the wires from the terminals. Take care not to bend these terminals.


  3. Visually inspect the burner - often there will be small holes or bubbles on the surface of a defective element.


  4. Now that you have removed the burner, you can test it using your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1 and touch the test leads to the two burner terminals. The VOM should show continuity. Typical burner readings should be somewhere between 19 and 115 ohms, depending on the range manufacturer. If there is no continuity, the burner is defective. To test for a grounded (or shorted) burner, place one test lead on the outside surface of the burner and the other test lead on each burner terminal in turn. If there is continuity at either terminal, the burner is defective.


  5. If the burner is defective, replace with a new one by reversing the removal procedure (step 2 above). If replacing a wired-in burner, make sure that you install the wires on the correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram

Oven Thermostat Testing:

An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.

  1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


  2. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
    1. On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
    2. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components.
    3. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
    4. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
    5. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.


  3. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.

    Adjusting the thermostat:

  4. Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.


  5. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.

Dec 01, 2010 | Amana Cooktops

1 Answer

Back L element no go


Feel free to download a copy of your wiring diagram from http://sparepartspro.zendesk.com/entries/118713-zanussi-electric-hob

Qualified Electricains only.

Feb 24, 2010 | Zanussi 23 in. ZKT641H Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

I would like a circuit diagram for a Kleenmaid CH 14 Cooktop


Hi, I too have had a problem with the dual element on the Kleenmaid CH14. Likewise I was given an Invensys M82314 which as you will know is not configured in the same way. However, I assume that what they call"phase" is the active connection, the neutral is marked and are side by side like the old one, pilot is idicated and is the wire that bridges together with the other switches....you are only left with two...."load1" and "load2" whichever way around I apply those I can only get my inside burner to run. I am baffled !! My old switch operates both burners but keeps cutting in and out.

Nov 11, 2009 | Cooktops

1 Answer

Left hand side not working


OK. I know whats wrong. On your terminal I guess you only connected the Large Brown wire to the number 2 terminal ( Live ) What you have to do is bridge terminal 1 and 2 together. You may need to peel back the heavy copper brown so you can split it evenly and ensure it can reach to terminal 1 and 2 . So what you have then is one cable feeding to both 1 and 2 terminal. If you have the smaller live brown wire just connect that to terminal 2 also. That should fix your problem. I will check back to see if you have any more problems..

Sep 16, 2008 | Zanussi 23 in. ZKT641H Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

GE JP350 wiring problems


a to black one
b to red one
d to orange
e to grey
a-e to red two
a-d to black two
a-c to orange two
a-b to grey two
a-a to white

Jan 19, 2008 | GE 30 in. Profile JP350 Electric Cooktop

1 Answer

Only 2 hobs work


this is almost certainly a wiring issue at the mains connection block, there are links which have not been tightened down. there is usually a diagram adjacent to mains block telling you what to do. connection block is covered by a plate. take plate off and tighten all terminals making sure links have been inserted. switch of at mains of course

Jun 06, 2007 | Zanussi 23 in. ZKT641H Electric Cooktop

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