I have two 1030S fluid heads that needs service. Balky on pan on pan and tilt even on minimum tension.
Do you repair and if so how much?
Mark Allen
Carolina School of Broadcasting
704-395-9272
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My service manual for a 90-93 Passat makes no mention of a VR-6 engine but here's what it says for the regular auto transmission.
Loosen the bottom pan bolts and let the old fluid drain into a catch pan. Remove it and clean it . Replace the strainer (filter) if it can't be cleaned or is damaged. Replace the pan gasket, be sure the 4 corner gasket spacers are in place before tightening the bolts.Torques are 71 in-lbs for the filter and 89 in-lbs for the pan bolts.
To check the fluid level, the engine and trans must have a minimum of 6 miles of driving on them before the level is checked. The engine is running when you check it. The 20*C mark is the cold level.
VW recommends this be done every 2 years or 30,000 miles.
Alisa: With all 'video tripod heads'...., regardless if the are the original 'true' fluid heads (that actually used a liquid (oil) to achieve 'fluid' type movements) or a modern professional 'fluid' head (that actually uses a clutch mechanism like a cars transmission) or a fluid effect head like the Manfrotto #501HDV (which used nylon discs sandwiching a ball bearing race)...., always store with the pan and tilt mechanisms unlocked!!!! This means the camera platform should be positioned in the 'rest' position (not tilted forward or backwards), also ensure that any counterbalance mechanism is released so as to eliminate strain on the internal mechanisms!!!! If you remember to do this and don't overload the head..., you will extend the life of your gear significantly
they don't use fluid - maybe some grease in the tilt and pan of the head, but the tripod itself doesn't need any.. you might need an adjustment somewhere... I own 3 of these.
Inspect the belt tensioner for the following conditions: Noise
If the belt squeals, the tensioner force may be insufficient. Check the belt length gauge, if the length is correct, replace the tensioner.
If the tensioner clatters or rattles during engine operation, there may be internal interference or wear. Replace the tensioner.
If the belt chirps, you may have a worn pulley or tensioner or cracks in the tensioner bas or arm. Check the mounting bolts, if they are okay, replace the tensioner.
Sticking or Seized Tensioner or Idler
If the tensioner does not operate smoothly or doesn't move, you may have: internal thrust surface damage/wear, internal damage/wear, or a broken spring, replace the tensioner.
Appearance
Inspect the tensioner arm for cracks or other damage. If the tensioner is broken, it should be replaced.
Look for excessive tensioner movement at idle, which can indicate internal wear, an out-of-round pulley or loose mounting bolts. Check the mounting bolts, it they are in good condition, replace the tensioner.
Make sure the tensioner is not tilted or misaligned. Also make sure a gap exists between the tensioner arm and base. If you notice a problem, check the mounting surface, it the surface is okay, replace the tensioner.
Belt Tracking
If the belt does not track properly on the pulley tracking surface, you'll need to troubleshoot the problem. Check the mounting bolts and the system alignment. Then, make sure the correct belt is being used for the vehicle. If all of these things are intact, replace the tensioner.
Belt Length Indicator
A belt length indicator is built into each tensioner.
The gauge identifies the effective operating range of the tensioner.
It consists of a pointer and either two or three length marks.
On a three-mark gauge minimum belt length, maximum belt length and ideal belt length are indicated.
On a two-mark gauge only minimum belt length and maximum belt length are indicated.
Ideal belt length on a two-mark gauge is generally half way between the minimum and the maximum.
When a belt wears and stretches with age the tensioner will move towards the maximum belt length to maintain proper tension.
As the pointer nears the maximum length mark, replace the belt.
Even though your shifter doesn't show 1st gear, your transmission will start out in 1st, then shift into 2nd at around 10-15mph. If you start out with shifter in 2nd, you should feel the gear change. About all the average person can do with automatics is check the fluid, and possibly drop the pan and change filters. sometimes that helps with slipping or balky transmissions, but not always. Good luck, Bill. Maybe somone else has some ideas?
Not fully understanding your question. You stated that the "head does tilt smoothly on 516. How do I get it smooth". What are you asking exactly? How to smooth out the pan as well, or how to make it tilt even smoother?
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