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Posted on Jun 30, 2008
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In Dec 07 I had a complete Carrier AC/Gas Heating System installed in my home to replace my original system when my house was built in 1983.We upgraded the new system to 3-TON AC as the old AC was 2 and half ton. Since the new system was installed in the winter time it was not until the hot weather started in May that a problem arose. The first conclusion of the problem was that the coil was aligne incorrect the second was that we needed more air return so an addition vent was added. Now the third conclusion is that when we went from 2and half ton AC to 3 tons that my old duct system is not able to carry the addition output by the 3-ton unit. IS THIS CORRECT THAT I NEED TO HAVE A NEW DUCT SYSTEM INSTALLED. AS THE HEAT BUILDS UP INSIDE THE HOUSE AND INSIDE TEMP. GOES UP THE AC RUNS ALL THE TIME AND CANNOT CATCH WITH THE DESIRED TEMP- for example if we put a temp of 72, and inside temp goes up to 78, the unit cannot catch up and runs continously. IT IS NOT UNTIL THE EVENING HOURS THAT THE TEMPS EQUAL.

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  • Posted on Jun 30, 2008
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Air conditioning requires 400 cfm (cubic feet per minute) per ton of cooling so your old 2.5 ton system would have required 1000 cfm and your new 3 ton requires 1200 cfm. This is not a big change, but if your ductwork is too small it could cause problems. The best way to check to see if airflow is the problem is to check the temperature of the air going in to the system and then check it when it comes out. Take a temp reading with a reliable digital thermometer at the return grill ( the vent that is physically the closest to the furnace that is sucking air in). Then take a temperature reading at the vent that is physically closest to the furnace and that is blowing air out. The target range is for the air coming out to be 18-22 deg F colder that the air going in. If the air is coming out is more than 22 deg colder then there is not enough air moving through the system. If the air is coming out is less than 18 deg colder then the problem is with the system. Potential problems range from improper refrigerant charge or incorrect refrigerant metering to wrong coil/volume ratio which is essentially mis-matched equipment. It sounds to me like you have a company that doesn't really have much of a clue what they are doing. When the company I work for changes equipment in a house to a larger capacity, we always check the ductwork and do the math ahead of time to make sure that things will work rather that throwing things at problems later. Also, when you check your temps turn the system on and allow it to run for about 10-15 min first so that everything has a chance to stabilize and the ductwork has a chance to cool down.

  • Anonymous Jul 04, 2008

    Dear zamorar98,



    I put alot of effort into the detail and accuacy of my solutions. I would appreciate it if you would rate my solution as Fix-Ya unless you fee that would be in appropriate. Please keep in mind while you are deciding on a rating that I am a technician that normally deals with these issues "in person" when I am the one who can check the system out and evaluate the problem.



    Thank You,

    Chillmaster

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The Honeywell RTH2300 doesn't need a C-wire. See the documentation in the Installation & Setup section on the support page: https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/air/thermostats/programmable-thermostats/5-2-day-programmable-thermostat-w-change-reminder-rth2300b1038-e1/ . If your old thermostat had a C-wire, check the system board at the furnace. Make sure that the G-wire (usually green) at the thermostat is also connected to the system board's G-wire connection.

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http://www.fixya.com/support/r3706364-gas_boiler_condensing_best_features

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