92000 btu Goodman furnace in basement of remodeled older home is unable to keep up with the cold winter (all new windows and insulation). Have same furnace in attic for second floor and house is only 2600 sq ft. Furnace runs and runs and warm air blows but not really hot air.
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If you have enough room behind the stud wall install 1" rigid foam tape seams and then use the thickest possible roxsul insulation to fill the studs. Or axe the foam and install 6mil plastic on warm side of the wall after insulating tape all seams when done.
You did not indicate the year or size of the mobile home, but, having lived in several in cold Michigan, here are some things.
Be sure all the windows are well sealed.
At first, I used to put a strong clear plastic sheet over the insides, and tape these in place.
Later, I bought foam insulation board at a lumber yard and cut pieces to fin the window openings, and taped them in.
When it is really cold, feel the walls, the floor, and the ceiling.
If you find cold to the touch, you are losing heat there.
If your floors are cold, put insulating panels and skirting around the bottom of the trailer.
If your extreme cold lasts for months, some people consider putting a small electric heater under the trailer that is temperature controlled.
Some people do a "roof-over" by setting poles or posts alongside the trailer and adding an additional roof above the trailer.
That step would enable you to add insulation above the top if your ceiling is cold.
God bless your efforts.
Hello, if you have a humidifier running along with your furnace than it is set to high and must be turned down. Usually this is what causes condensation to form on the windows due to a big temp differance and humididty between the indoor air and outside air.
1. You can't change the blower timing at the beginning of the cycle (important to keep the heat exchanger temperature correct). 2. The issue isn't that cold air is going through the furnace itself, it's cold air in the ductwork. 3. It's likely that the cold air you feel from the return and the cold air in the ductwork are related in this way: many duct systems are imperfectly sealed and not that well insulated. A home energy contractor (weatherization or energy auditor) might be your best resource to seal the ductwork and add insulation. If this is the problem, then the good news is, your comfort issue can be solved and it will also save you lots of fuel, paying for the work to seal and insulate in very short order! Good luck!
Not a simple answer as how well the home is insulated and how many window's, doors etc. play an important role as well as your geographical location. If the home has adequate insulation and the doors and windows are tight then I would think a 3 ton unit would do the job.
This sounds like the unit is low on freon. From the model plate you have a 24,000 btu unit. This is the minimum needed for 1100 sq ft not accounting for windows and doors. Other factors have to be looked at for a good cooling AC, where is the unit located? In the basement is good. in the attic is bad. look at all the duct work is it all metal and insulated (good) is it plastic tubing (bad). The more insulation on the duct and the better it is sealed the better. You could use more btu's but you would have to replaced the whole system inside and out. You might look for a good 12,000 btu window unit or 2 - 3 8000 btus in different rooms. Now back to the problem I think you unit is low on freon. Should be using R22, unless you have a brother-in-law in the HVAC business you will have to call a local AC company to check out and add freon. Repost if you find other problems.
Gerge, if you go to website www.energycodes.gov
you can do a heat load calc yourself. Basically, you figure out the sizes of walls, total area of glass. total doors to outside, ceiling area and types of building materials used. It is pretty easy and then you will know for sure. The contractor should be suppling you with one but if not use this, it is free!
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