If I understand correctly you have standard on-off situation for exterior lights. Load is 360 Watt, well within capacity of all in-wall timers.
You have identified the hot wire.
You have confirmed that load works, and that electricity is ON.
Regular on-off switch works fine.
Now the information is a bit fuzzy.
You are installing a timer to control this load?
You do not identify timer.
So I will jump into the shark waters and ASSUME ...
That your timer has 4 wires?
A) Timer is battery operated Intermatic ST01C or EJ500 with red, blue, black, green.
Red is capped off.
Green goes to ground.
Black goes to hot from breaker.
Blue goes to Load.
Click on-off button, if timer does not operate, reverse blue and black.
If lights click on-off, then you put red wire where blue wire should be
B) Timer does not have battery and is Tork, GE, Intermatic, Woods, Utilitec, Westek and has red, black, white and green wires.
Here's what to do:
Green goes to ground
Two switch wires connect to red and black in any order right now.
In back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. These are neutral wires. Timer white wire connects to the neutrals. This will power the internal clock motor.
If box does not have neutrals, the timer white wire connects to bare ground along with green wire.
Click manual override button, if lights do not turn on, then reverse red and black wires.
Why does you neighbor's timer not last very long?
I don't know.
If timer has battery and timer exposed to cold temperatures, then battery lasts about a month.
If timer has no battery, you have to send me the model number and let me look into it.
Use a circuit analyzer on receptacle on same breaker and see if anything shows that might interfere with electronics.
Add a comment any time.
[Information] For a 2002 Toyota Camry, the Daytime
Running Lights (DRL) operate utilizing the High Beams (inner Lamps closer to
the center of the vehicle front) at a reduced power.
[The troubleshooting process:] Review the Owner's Manual and ensure the test
configuration matches the following criteria:
1. According to the 2002 Toyota Camry Owner's Manual (Check your Owners Manual):
"The DRL system will make your headlights come on at a reduced brightness
when:
The light switch s in the "DRL" position.
The ignition is on with the engine running.
The headlight switch is off.
The parking brake is released."
2. Set the Test Conditions according to Step 1 above.
3. Check the headlight bulbs to ensure they are not
burned out. If one burns out, there is a fair chance that the other would have burned
out at the same time. Replace as necessary.
In this case, if the high beams operate, the DRLs should also operate.
4. Test the system, ensuring the step 1 conditions are set. (Engine running, Multi-function
Switch on Turn Signals in "DRL" position, headlight switch off
(repeating what the manual says -- it should be obvious that in the
"DRL" position, the headlight switch should be off / do not have the
switch positioned to "High Beam"), and the Parking Brake
"off").
5. If DRL lights do not work, check the engine compartment Fuse and Relay Box.
there is a 5 Amp DRL fuse -- replace it with the spare. Test (step 4).
6. If it does not work, swap around or replace relays -- there are three (3).
Any one of them could be bad (stuck or burned out). Test (step 4).
7. Other less likely possible issues
could be that the Multi-function Switch is broken or a connection / wire is
broken. [Beyond the scope of this
process.]
My problem was that the test configuration did not have
the engine running and parking brake off - Step 1. Problem solved with much
thought, repetitive tests on the vehicle and going back to the basics -- what
does the Owner's Manual say and where are the applicable fuses and relays
located?
150 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×