Motor will not come on everyday. comes on some days and then others, you have to start it manually. Replaced control panel 6 weeks ago and worked fine, now same problem again. Motor runs at lowest speed with led light blinking 2 times to indicate drive temperature problem but it is 27 degrees.

Hallo

The compressor winding's could also be faulty.

regards

Try replacing the "convinence control module" and bad board can cause all elec issues explained and also cause engine to cut out and other things but that is where I would start, hope this helps-

on dodge motors
fitted a lot of parts and still no better

the fault code clears and comes back as a intermittent problem

could be electrical voltage drop off or heat related failure

i wonder if your 02 sensor ,the catalytic converter
or other related sensors
are causing the fault to come back
if needed .....fit a new air filter...

how the test is determined

P1294-TARGET IDLE NOT REACHED 3.3L/3.8L
When Monitored and Set Condition:
P1294-TARGET IDLE NOT REACHED 3.3L/3.8L
When Monitored: With the engine idling and the transmission in drive, if automatic.
There must not be a MAP sensor trouble code or a Throttle Position Sensor trouble code.
Set Condition: The engine idle is not within 200 rpm above or 100 rpm below the target
idle for 40 seconds. One trip fault.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
INTERMITTENT CONDITION
IAC MOTOR PASSAGES
VACUUM LEAKS
AIR INDUCTION SYSTEM
THROTTLE BODY AND THROTTLE LINKAGE
TEST ACTION APPLICABILITY

To protect the IntelliFlo pump electronics from damage due to freezing conditions, the pump will switch itself on to generate internal heat when the air temperature drops below 40° F. This feature is not intended to protect the system plumbing from freezing. The pump will run at a lower speed than what you have it set, unless you have programmed the adjustment.
The Intelliflow pumps are great pumps, but come at a disadvantage- A whole lot of electronics.; Since the intelliflow pumps are fairly newer in the market, and you have already had the electronics replaced recently, so I am going to presume that you still are under Pentair Manufacturer warranty.
The issue you are describing remains a problem with the electronics. Since you are not getting any alarm codes, there may be in issue in the wiring or you may have a defective pump. Before calling into the manufacture, lets reset the pump to factory defaults:
The IntelliFlo VS-3050 pump can be reset to the factory default settings. All previously adjusted pump speeds that were saved will be erased. To reset the pump to the factory default settings: 1. Ensure that the pump is powered on and the green power LED is on. 2. Press the Stop button to stop the pump. 3. Press and hold all of the four Speed buttons simultaneously for four seconds. Power off the drive and reenergize. The default settings will be in effect.
If this solves your issues, then you can program the pump to operate at the desired time/speeds.
If you are still having issues, I recommend contacting Pentair Warranty at 800-831-7133. Be sure to have the date of install, the Serial and Model numbers handy when you call.

I would suggest it is a ballast problem. You can check supply of 5 volts to ballast's small 5 pin connector (trigger voltage) and about 300V-330V to large 2pin connector. If both voltages present at the start and lamp is working with in another TV - it is bad ballast.

clean the battery terminals and all connections going to it

This is out in cyberspace Cant remember what or where. Do a search for "Maytag Neptune shuts off"

http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_1.asp
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem The ice and water-dispensing system of your refrigerator is quite complex. Many components work together to provide the ice and water. Aside from a simple problem of a leaky water tube or a jammed ice chute, most other components are not user serviceable. We suggest that you contact a qualified appliance repair technician for such repairs.

Hey PNorris,

If multiple electronic devices are failing in your home all at once, I would probably first have to ask if your home recently experienced an electrical storm or major power surge of any kind.

Normally the effects of such large-scale surges are immediately noticeable - TV's and other major electronic devices may fail to turn on, fuses may be blown or circuit breakers tripped, and in some cases electrical wiring may be melted.

If nothing like this has happened recently, low-level power surges may still be a potential cause of this problem. When the motor from any large appliance (such as an air conditioner or refrigerator) turns on or off, it often diverts power to and from other electronic devices using the same circuits. This fluctuation in electrical current may result in low-level power surges to every connected device. While not immediately noticeable, these low-level surges can often cause the eventual failure of (and gradually degrading quality in) many audio/video components.

Typically, the easiest way to avoid situations like this is to make sure that outlets are not overloaded and surge protectors are used with every major electrical device in your home. For older homes however, replacing the house's wiring may be necessary. Homes that were originally built at the turn of the 20th century may not always have wiring capable of supporting the electrical needs of many modern appliances.

Ultimately, this means that in addition to contacting your local TV repair facility, you may want to also speak with an electrician. This is probably the best way to determine whether or not power surges have caused these failures, and may give you a better idea how to proceed.

Hope this helps you out.

Sincerely,
Aaron
Go Ahead. Use Us.

Replace both the main control board and the wax motor. This sounds like a computer chip malfunction

As far as the squeak, make sure it is not the bearing located at the back of the tub under the large pulley.