Hi, I ordered new bearings for my LG wm2277hg washer... I found a good post on how to remove the bearings (I thought), so took everything apart, ordered the two new bearings and a new rear seal and took everything apart...got the plastic tub separated, removed the rear motor components and tried to use a rubber mallet to drive the drive shaft and drum out of the front on the back half of the tub...they won't budge, any advice on how to get the old bearings out...also if there are any tricks to get the new bearings in? Seems simple enough, but they are so tight, seems they are press fit and I don't have any tools to support that.

Most likely a very expensive fix called a broken spider arm or drum support assembly. I took mine completely apart to find everything like new except that peice. Was going to cost me around 300-400$ to fix it myself so I junked it and bought a new one. They say over doing it on the detergent causes that spider arm to corrode and break. My washer was only 9 yrs. old. LG front load direct drive. Hope that helps even though it's bad news unless you get the parts for free. I was going to go ahead and replace the bearings(inside and outside bearings) the inner drum with spider attached already due to broken rusty bolts and the drum shocks. Like I said just the parts would have been about $350.

Its central shaft bearing must be inspected and probably replaced.

Fixing the LE Error Code in an LG Dishwasher

Seems like you need beaucoup parts and with what they charge for parts you just might be better off getting a new machine.

If you go to the attached link you can find out the part numbers and prices of the parts you want - if you ask them your question they will have the answer for you right there. http://www.appliancepartspros.com

If it is an LG dishwasher the LE code is either a broken wire in the door or a bad sump motor assm.

My GE washer model wcvh6400j0ww was leaking too. The repair person thought the same thing the gasket. It turned out to be the water in-let pipe (WH41X10118 and you will need seal WH41X10119) and not the gasket. He ordered the gasket and took machine apart to replace and found cracked pipe. Take your machines front off and make sure it is the gasket leaking. Good Luck,

BIG JOB!!!!
You have to completely remove the entire tub assembly to change this out.
This is the biggest and time consuming jobs to do on front load washers.
No easy way to do but to pull the entire unit apart.

Don't order any spares until you've stripped it down. See below:

• Make some space, unplug, unplumb, drain, remove top and rear panel.
  
• Remove bolt holding rotor onto splined shaft.
• Push down on top of tub to make the rotor more accessible then pull it off the shaft. Be aware that hefty magnets in rotor tend to pull it back on. Beware - strong magnetic fields!
  
• Disconnect cables running to stator (that rather impressive ring of coils) and remove the six bolts which attach it to the tub.
• Do NOTremove the 23 bolts which go through the steel plate at back of tub into polypropylene tub itself. I did - nothing happens!
• Disconnect cables running to heater element and thermocouple (temp sensor) at bottom of tub. Remove second nut and ease out element.
  
• Remove sprung wire which holds the rubber bellows to the front of the machine (the "port hole"). Leave it attached to the tub but fold the rubber into the drum so it's out of the way.
• Disconnect rubber tube connecting the tub to the pump. I found it easier to remove it at the pump side
• Disconnect pipes connecting the soap dispenser drawer to the tub. This is easiest at the tub side.
• There is a long tube, about 1cm diameter running from an air chamber near the bottom of the tub to a pressure sensor (to monitor water level) mounted at the front top right. Disconnect from the pressure sensor.
• Remove the scew holding said pressure sensor - it will be in the way when you remove tub.
• Pull out the drawer and remove the two screws holding the soap dispenser. That will be in the way too! Leave hoses connected.
  
• Also unscrew the solenoid valves. That's the last thing in your way.
• Pop out the nylon gizmos which hold the suspension springs where they attach to the cabinet.
• Note that there are two dampers at the bottom of the machine. They separate into two parts - no need to detach anything.
  
• Unless you own a block and tackle it is very difficult to lift the tub vertically out of the cabinet. I layed the machine its right side (looking at the front). Get help, tilt gently and rest on something to protect cabinet paintwork. Remember to leave the door open and to keep the pressure sensor, soap tray, solenoid valves and miscellaneous plumbing cabling and fingers clear as you ease the drum out of the cabinet.
• Remove bolts, split tub and remove drum.
• I found the seal was obviously gone and the first bearing was wrecked.
• Both bearings and the seal are available but I couldn't get the failed ones out (perhaps if I had specialist tools) so I ordered a rear drum including bearings and seal (about £120).
• Reassembly is straightforward - just note the following:
• If you replace the rear drum, rescue and reuse (or order a new) seal (huge O ring) between the two halves of the tub. Also rescue and reuse thermocouple.
• When reinstalling tub ensure the dampers re-engage.
  
• Beware when reinstalling heating element that it doesn't foul the drum. Also ensure no stray screws etc were attracted by those magnets. Give the drum a spin by hand to test once everything is reassembled but before switching on.

Two days doing it blind without instructions! More like two hours if I had to do it again.

Pub!

Tom,

Here is a link posted by another member of this site for the Svr Repair manual;

http://www.fixya.com/support/t495521-fav6800_manual  

This will help you trouble shoot issues with this machine.  I removed my clutch and lubed needle berings in the clutch pully and that took care of my issue of DC/UC errors in spin cycle.  Here is a quick note on my repair action.

I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors in the spin cycle, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 4 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!

I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium and heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a spin cycle with no dc/uc error codes.

Get a new washer. Perhaps another brand.

The fix for me was to get a new washer. Had same issue with loud spin cycle. Tried researching while wife was continuing use of washer. Then the LE message appeared.

Took back apart and found that water had leaked and caused a boat load of damage. Bearings shot, seal leaks, drum leaks, Stator damaged. Same issue as 'jammy64' stated.

Cost to repair wasn't worth it. Going to get an
Electrolux model.