My 024 was never correct right out of the box and did not pump the correct amount of oil to the chain which caused quicker loss of sharpness and excessive heat to the bar. The local repair shop replaced the oil pump and it still didn't pump as much oil as I thought it should and recently it stopped all together and now it needs service again while my other saws are still going strong year after year. What is the problem?

The oil pump is fixed on these machines so there is no way to reduce the oil flow, however the pump is controlled by the engine rpm, so if the machine is over revving, or you are cutting small branches then the engine will rev very high and in turn the pump will pump more oil, as for leaking all chainsaws use what i would call a constant loss system, ie the oil is fed onto the chain via the guide bar and away, it relies on a fair amount of saw dust to dry up any oil reside in and around the saw body, it is fair to say any saw left over night will have an amount of oil under it, if this becomes excessive then you would need to remove the clutch and sprocket, and then remove the oil pump, there will be a combined pick up/delivery hose that seals the pump, this may need replacing.

Clean it out with compressed air

You may have the chain tensioner set a little too tight.

Additional things to check:

• The sprocket on the end of the guide bar is greased, and turning smoothly.
• The chain brake is working correctly (not dragging or only partially disengaging).
• The guide bar is straight, not bent or twisted, burr free, and the groove the chain travels in hasn't been squeezed together.
• The chain tension is set correctly.
• The chain oiler is functioning correctly (and you have a sufficient amount and correct type of bar oil).
• Chain is in good condition, and the correct one for the saw. Make sure all of the links flex smoothly.
• Chain is sharp. A dull chain will put more pressure on the guide bar because the cutting teeth aren't digging into the wood efficiently (and usually a person pushes harder on the saw when the chain is getting dull).

Chain side tensioning
http://husqvarna.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/590/kw/chain%20tensioning%20screw/related/1

run it with the bar off and see if it pumps oil. I have drained oil tank and cleaned with gas(no run) then replaced with lite oil , run no chain and got them going ,or then gingerly run wire into oil hole and got them going, otherwise its tear apart time. If oil does come out, then clean your bar and your cover and use bar chain oil.

all oil tanks on chain saws take Bar/chain oil this can be bought same place u buy 2 cycle engine oil most times , this bar chain oil most times is a 30W oil , if you change weights of oil then oil pump is not gonna add proper amount of oil to saw in use ,this will cause u problems !

How do you set the chainsaw down when not using it? You're supposed to lay it on the flat side when not in use, or it will leak.

It sounds like you may have something stuck in the oiler port or groove of the bar. You can use the pointy end of the chain file guide to clean the bar out and give it a shot again.
Good luck

How old is the saw? Is the chain on correctly (sharp edge of the chain faces toward you on the bottom) and is it sharp? If none of those the carburetor may need adjustment.

karey678,

Remove the bar and chain assembly. You may have to remove the sawdust from the oil hole to find it but it will be opposite the hole in the bar ahead of the drive sprocket on the top half of the bar. Usually when you remove the bar and chain the hole can be identified by the oily sawdust in the area that I just mentioned.

Thanks for using FixYa and for the great rating.

hardrocko

I assume you are asking about the oil for the chain. Any good quality "Bar and Chain Oil" will do fine. Do not use motor oil you use in your car engine as it will not properly lube the chain and will result in quicker dulling and early demise of the chain.

You can get the "Bar and Chain Oil" at most hardware stores or Farm Supply stores.