Use on the control buttons and other switches balance contact spray as the first step let it work for a few minutes.
Control the print for some loose components (solderings) by carefully some manipulation and movement on print and components with a wooden or plastic object, because solderings on active heat-conducting components have allways high priority on the end stage, and in power supply primary you can become early loose components in the solderings if the manufacturer has used leadfree solder. If you have after this no improvement then ALLWAYS refer the damaged to find components replace always twice (on both sides) each other replace if a damaged deformed capacitor or diode was found both as well left as right the same brand components , be carefull in replacements its very important because of in most repairs refurbishing for tonal influences Passive components as example (only suggestion) to take a capacitor 10Volt 330 MF then replace it for a 16 volt 330 mf the size should in most case be the same of the component its very important for tonal effects and balance, in most repairs is that more size format on capacity sounds better as the new order components become smaller on the same voltage its better to get the higher voltage capacitors with the same size as the old lower voltage ones.
http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/userpics/.../Marantz%20PM6010F%20Service.pdf
SOURCE: Output volume has dropped in right channel
dear sir,pls check the HT voltage fuse, LTsupplay also and out put stage,and volume controle,
SOURCE: nad s200
It is most probably a dirty speaker protection relay. gently tap the relay(the one that engages shortly after turning the amp on) when the fault is occurring and see audio returns. This should ascertain the problem. Replace it if it is a sealed type, or if it has a "lid" you can get off, burnish the contacts with a white business card, and give it a spray with contact cleaner/lubricant. Good luck and a "fixYa" rating would be great for my profile :)
SOURCE: Marantz Amp
hi, well done in diagnosing your problem:) From what you have just told me, the amp has noisy source selector switching, and may even have more than one switch or control causing the problem. Start with the source/direct button.
To resolve this, best bet is to "flood" the internals of the switch or control with CRC 2-26 . This will clean the contacts and leave a layer of lubricant to prevent the problem reoccurring, Getting the spray into the controls is the hard part. Check out what you find by way of entry points that you can get a the delivery straw into to spray. Sometimes you can use the a hole on the top of the switch, or "click" the top of it a little, enough to get the sray in. If the switch is a hermitcally sealed type, i have in the past used a pin vice and a very small drill to make a hole at the very back of the switch creating a place to get the spray in. Check it out and see how you go.
regards
Graeme
SOURCE: Crest Audio CPX-900 Amp
check the input signal.switch the cables and see if that changes anything.also check the back of the amp for filters.make sure that they are set the same way.check cables on source coming in to amp.ie-quarters to rca's or rca's to xlr's.make sure amp is not set to parallel inputs or bridged mono.
SOURCE: NAD C272 Amplifier: Intermittent left channel
My solution was actually indeed the output protection relay. What I did was to open up the relay and use contact cleaner and a very fine abrasive to clean the contact surfaces of the relay. After that, the problem was gone!
The way to diagnose this for me was to run the amplifier open until the problem recurred and to simply tap the relay's box. The sound came on immediately, and I was convinced.
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