My ajustment screws needed to be replaced, because they had been ajusted when they didn't need to. i ordered the back plate thinking the screws would be in it and preset. but i was mistaken. i need to know how to ajust those two screws please

Adjustments- if any- are for the throw out bearing
to pressure plate clearance

No adjustment will fix slipping

You may need the flywheel machined & a new
clutch disc & pressure plate

First make sure the rear breaks are ajusted or replaced when worn out drum to be skeemed aswell. Usally whe rear brakes are ajusted hand break will stop car on two to four clicks on hand brake rachet. If brakes is ajusted check cables for wear . Then ajust cable insite car remove hand brake cover and you will see a ajustable screw or nut. Rememeber to put the handbrake on four clicks and dont tighten screw or nut to much the brakes will lock

to ajust your fuel inlet their is a screw on the side of the carb when you screw it in your leaning it out and out will richen it but you need to find the right ajustment because if to lean it out to much you will burn the piston but to rich will foul the plug

basically you will be just about to take your treadmill, almost totally apart. But the are not many nuts and bolts to solving your problem, first Lay treadmill on its side and locate the rear roller bolts, on mine their are 2, most tread mills are all the same, remove them 2 bolts, Now locate the front roller bolt, 1 bolt,remove bolt, your belt is going to be very loose now, on the side that you would be walking on, Is a board, 6 phillips head screws, Hold the board to the metal frame, remove them, remove the board, then go back to the rear roller, And remove the plastic end caps that hold the rear roller too the metal frame, by gently tapping them off, remove old belt from rear roller, Now go to front roller, and remove belt from front roller, and its time to Install new Belt, AND AJUST NEW BELT, Put belt on front roller and reinstall roller, put plastic end caps back on frame, and then reinstall rear roller threw the belt and reconnect to the plastic end caps on the rear of the frame, Now reinstall the board with 6 phillip screws, to the metal frame, Now turn treadmill upright again, Its time to AJUST YOUR NEW BELT 1st Center your New Belt, Then tighten rear roller bolts, ( Pay Attention ) Count even amount of turns for both Rear roller bolts, Then Ajust front roller Alignment, Their is only 1 bolt on most treadmills, So if your belt is pulling to one side when you turn the treadmill on,it means you still have to ajust the front roller ajustment screw, What I Do Is , I USE A small leveling tool, For the front roller ajustment, It KEEPS the pitch EVEN on both sides of the front roller, and this is HOW YOU REPLACE YOUR BELT AND AJUST THE NEW BELT, and save your self some money, enjoy, in you need to contact me, [email protected]

Your clutch plate is probably worn.
You could try to ajust the clutch pressure plate to compensate for this (consult repair manual or get a mechanic to do it for you: should be relatively cheap and fast!) but it could be worned beyond ajustment range and would need replacing.

Thats not that easy, its gotta be adjust and tune with the proper electronic test equipement. I suppose that if you get there, its because you had trouble with it, what makes it alot tricky to ''tune'', because intensity and other ajustment may need ajustement also... Bring it to an electronic shop, or throw it away. Most manufacturer have remove most ajustments over the years, what removes on most unit the chances having good results. Spending 25$ for an estimate 45$ to repair or 80$ to replace?

large adjustment is the idle
if it is a zama carb then 1 turn out each
if it is a walbro carb. 1and1/4 out each
preliminary adjstments they will have to be tweeked after its running or maybe not

The hand brake hardly ever needs ajusting. See your hand brake mechanincly spreads your rear brake shose inside the drum. Therefore just replace your rear shoes and make sure there ajusted right and you should have no more problems with that part of your car. PS make sure you put some 3M paste on the contact points on your backing plate to avoid a squeak in the near future.

Yes you do, but chanses are the ajusters are froze up. The best thing to do isto get a pry bar between the backing plate and drumb and pry and hit the other side with a hammer, or maybe if you can pry it out far enought to pop the ajuster out, or cut the heads off the pins on the back side of backing plate that hold the shoes to backing plate.

Your emergency break shoes might be holding you up from geeting the hub off there inside the hub, i think on the back side there should be a slot to get a ajustment tool in there to back them off. If not a big hammer is in order there also might be clips on the wheel studs from the factory. No you don't have to remove the axel. Your the best judge of what needs to be replaced your there, but i would say the ovious rotor, caliper, break pads, and maybe emergency break shoes, maybe backing plate.