Please let me know if the speaker output fuses on a KAV2250 are fast or slow blow?

If there is nothing left inside the little glass tube, it's a fast blow. A slow blow fuse will usually have a spring and some other material that make up the slow blow mechanism. slow blow fuses used to also have 'SB' stamped on the metal end caps. The fuse holder may also tell you. If you cant figure it out, put in a fast blow and see how long it lasts, If if blows when you turn the volume high, you should try a slow blow.

This may not be a fuse. Bose uses devices like this as "speaker protection". If this device is wired to the woofer, that is exactly what it is. For more information, please visit my website at audioserviceclinic.com. Thank you.

Fuses have different blow characteristics. Such to protect components differently. An extremely fast fuse would protect sensitive components like tweeters and slower fuse will allow transcients to pass and blow on long time fault. If you put a slow blow in place of fast blow, it won't blow as quickly, but it could allow the protected device to be damaged. In reverse, you put a fast blow in place of slow blow, it will blow at normal transcients and be a nuscience to always replace.
You can cross to a fuse of different manufacturer. The reliable manufacturers will have detailed datasheet and subsitute or similar fuse to the fuse you are looking for.

I have a suggestion that you can try. If the unit is no longer turning on and you're sure the electrical outlet is good (by plugging in another device) and the hand-held control panel is on, as well as the switch at the base of the subwoofer, then try replacing the fuse. The subwoofer on this model has a fuse near where the power cord enters the subwoofer. There is a slotted screwdriver slot on the fuse cover. Using a flat-head screwdriver (or your thumbnail), turn the cover about a 1/4 to a 1/2 a turn and the fuse should pop out. Keep the cover. Replace the fuse with a 4 amp, 125V (or higher) fuse that is a slow-blow fuse. There are fast blow (or fast acting) and slow blow (or slow acting) fuses. You can't replace one for the other. You should be able to find a fuse at Radio Shack. If a new fuse doesn't get your system working again, then something else is broken. Good luck.

Any decent electrical shop should have those fuses. They tend to come in 20mm and 30mm lengths. You will need to know which. Also there are fast blow and slow blow fuses. If you have the originals and you can see the remains of a coil then you want slow blow. Otherwise just replace them with fast ones. The 1.2 amp fuse can be replaced with a 250 volt fuse.
So you want a 250ma 250v fuse.
and a 1.2A 250v fuse.

it is a fast blow fuse. if it were slow blow it would indicate it.

If there is anything left of the fuse it might give you a clue. For instance a coil would indicate a slow type. However you can fit a fast blow if you have no idea, it won't matter, as long as the rating is the same. If it blows again it won't be the type of fuse that causing it, but a shorted semi-conductor (such as an output transistor) that causes it to go.

Have you used 2A SLOW BLOW fuse? This type of fuses usually are ceramic type and are very different with the glass type ones. The glass type fuses are (more or less) fast blow. Although the best solution is to find SLOW BLOW fuses like this, in case it's very difficult you can use 3A fast blow fuse also.

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slow

T = time delay (slow blow)
6.3A = 6.3 Amperes maximum load
H = HRC - high rupture current (as you specified a ceramic fuse)
250V = 250V AC rated

other letters you may see
FF = ultra fast blow
F = fast blow
M = medium blow
TT = very slow blow
L = low blow current
H = high blow current (glass package)
S = sand filled