I need a little help with a Sears garage door opener and it's devices.
For years I had a functioning keypad and remote door opener. A few months ago I added a button in my car and now the keypad doesn't work - but it's more bizarre than that.
If I clear out all the codes from the opener (hold SRT button for about 6 seconds), I can get either the keypad or the remote to work, whichever I do first. But the other one seems to get locked out.
I can get the car button programmed using the remote, but not with the keypad (which I took off the wall to work with).
I've tried all combinations of programming sequences and the one in the manual (hold device button and push SRT button simultaneously) works for the first attempt (after deleting all the codes), but not subsequent attempts.
All the devices seem to work, but not simultaneously. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Steve
Hi All,
I had the same issue recently and here's what I found out (through a LOT of research) and the solution (yes, there is one!):
As described by many, when you can't get both the remote and the wireless pad to work together it means your garage door opener can accept both rolling code and billing code technology, BUT not at the same time. When you reset all codes (normally by pressing a button on the opener for a period of time e.g. 6 seconds or more), you erase all codes and remote "pairings". Then when you follow the manufacturer's procedure to pair again (which could be the wireless key pad first OR the remote first), the first pairing determines the technology for all subsequent pairings. Example: if your first pairing/programming was with the wireless keypad, and if it was rolling code technology (normally the case for newer models), then the garage opener will only recognize and accept rolling code for subsequent pairings. If your remote(s) are older (billion code technology) then the opener won't even recognize the signal (e.g. led won't blink when trying to pair/program).
And vice versa if you start with your remote after erasing all programming (then your keyless pad won't work).
But here is a potential workaround! For newer wireless keypads (e.g. clicker from chamberlain), you have an option to select the type of opener you are using as you do the initial password set up (normally indicated by a number e.g. 1 for models built after 1995, 2 for models built between 1997 and 2004, etc). Each choice is associated with a technology in the background (e.g. either rolling code or billion code). If you are programming your wireless keypad first after erasing all codes / programming, if you chose the "recommended" option for garage opener, chances are it will be rolling code and that means you won't be able to program your older remotes (billion code) after that. So how can you chose the option that will match your remote???
Here's what you do: start by pairing / programming your older remote first after erasing all codes / programs. That sets the technology (e.g. billion code). Then, go ahead and program your wireless keypad, but you may have to go through the process several times by trying the different options until you find one that works!
For me, I had to try 4 options before making it work. Options 1 through 3 (mind you, options #2 was the exact match for my garage door opener model but it would cause the problem discussed here e.g. wireless keypad would work but not the remotes) would not even be recognized by the opener in this procedure (LED would not blink), but it did work once I hit option 4.
I hope this will help you with your problem. Let me know if it's not clear. Cheers!
answer you gave is to us option 4 or hit option 4 what or where is option 4
please explain
thanks send to [email protected]
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Change the code. sometimes the key pad contacts wear for those numbers
Sorry it took so long lobsterman72 - wanted to try one more thing and couldn't get to it until today.
The opener is 6-8 years old (as nearly as I can remember - maybe a little more). The antenna wire is grey and the button is reddish orange - not really either red or orange.
Don't have a remont to my craftsman garage and I would like to probram my car.
First how old is the opener? And what color is the antenna wire or the button on the back of the opener. Sounds like a dumb question but it makes a difference.
JUST RESOLVED THIS PROBLEM. THE REMOTES USE ROLLING CODE TECHNOLOGY. WHEN ONE REMOTE STOPS ROLLING ITS CODE THEN THE OPENER CANNOT RECOGNIZE THE BROKEN ONE (NON ROLLING CODE) AND THE OTHER ROLLING CODE. I COULD NOT PROGRAM MY REMOTE AND KEYPAD TOGETHER. BOUGHT TWO NEW AND TRIED ONE NEW AND ONE OLD TILL I FOUND WHICH WOULD NOT PROGRAM.. EX. PROGRAMED BOTH NEW TOGETHER - WORKED THEN PROGRAME ONE NEW AND ONE OLD TILL I FOUND THE BROKEN ONE
If you have the older Sears keypad on outside and push button on the inside, look under the top of the inside push button, pry off the cover, there is a 9 volt battery there. Replace with new battery. To right of battery is a switch, switch up to keyboard program mode. Enter numbers on outside key pad. Switch back to operate mode.
See if this fixed your keypad problem.
SOURCE: Sears garage door keypad/remote programming problem
The button you added in your car is an earlier technology that is not compatible with the rolling code technology.
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The opener is 6-8 years old (as I recall - maybe a little more). The antenna wire is grey and the button is a reddish orange (not quite either red or orange).
I have the same problem. Mine appears related to using a combination of older remotes and new remotes.
Trying to program the remotes that came with the Liftmaster (Sears) 1265 and Liftmaster 971LM. Either one works but not both.
Almost the same problem on a Lift-Master opener but with a twist. I have two original Lift-Master remotes (971LM) for a model series 1200 opener. One remote has date 2/99 on the back, the other has 6/99. I can program either one to operate the opener, but not both. When I clear out the codes, either one will cause the indicator light to blink, but as soon as one is programmed the other one no longer causes the indicator to blink. When I pop the covers off the remotes, one has 11 at the top of the PCB and 0399 at the bottom. The other has 14 at the eop and 1199 at the bottom. Otherwise they appear identical.
I moved into a house a year ago with a Craftsman 139.53661SRT1 opener. Keypad and 2 remotes worked well until a month ago. I changed batteries on all. I've followed instructions in manual for reprogramming, in addition to trying to program the built in remote in a new car.
The receiver bonds with the first remote, then the others don't work. I program the keypad or another remote and the first one programmed quits working. I don't think this unit has dip switches. I tried holding both remotes at the same time and reprogramming with the receiver....one worked, the other didn't. But separately, the one that didn't work then can be programmed by itself, so it's not the battery.
Can I check anything on the board itself in the receiver to see if a connection is fried? I've tried talking nice to the receiver...do I smack it up along side of the head....or do I smack myself? Thanks, Laura
The situation sucks. Any nobody nowhere seems to have a fix. This is silly it's even happening in the first place.
I am having the same issue as everyone else. I have a Chamberlain Deluxe Whisper and it is about 15-20 years old. Came with the house. I was replacing the keypad.
I don't have a remont for my garage door and I would like to program garage door in to my car.
Same problem, I cannot program both the keypad and the garage door opener, on my chamberlain garage door
I dont get what you mean by options?
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