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Maytag programming code for HV Board.

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damper

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One indirect way is to buy online a replacement board wich comes with the code. Use the code. Return the board for a credit. Make sure you can get a return credit before opting this way.

Posted on Nov 28, 2010

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I replaced my HV control board on my Maytag MFI2067AES and programmed the code from my refrigerator but the code is not being saved. Do I have the wrong board?
If you have replaced the HV control board on your Maytag MFI2067AES refrigerator and programmed the code from your refrigerator, but the code is not being saved, there could be a few possible causes:
  1. Wrong board: It's possible that you may have installed the wrong control board for your refrigerator model. Make sure to double-check the part number and compatibility before installing a new control board.
  2. Improper programming: Make sure that you are properly programming the control board with the correct code. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully and ensure that you are entering the code correctly.
  3. Control board issue: It's possible that the control board itself may be defective and is unable to save the code. Try resetting the control board to factory defaults and reprogramming it with the correct code. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the control board again.
  4. Other issues: There could be other issues with your refrigerator that are preventing the code from being saved, such as a faulty user interface or a problem with the door switch. You may need to perform further diagnosis or seek the help of a qualified repair technician to identify and fix the issue.
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Dec 03, 2022 • Maytag Refrigerators
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1answer

Installed new hv board in maytag french door
Hi,

With this board you should have also received a paper to program the unit. THe code you need is on the model number plate within the refer section of the unit your working on. I hope this helps.
Good Luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

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Sep 27, 2014 • Refrigerators
0helpful
1answer

Hv board needs to be replaced
Try www.searpartsdirect.com Or Give me your city and state I'll find you a local appliance parts supplier.
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Oct 29, 2013 • Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom...
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1answer

I have a maytag ice 2O. Just replaced the HV control board, programmed with code 1411. All seemed well, but the icemaker turns the auger without prompting, and will not turn when the dispenser is depr
Did you put the correct code in? The code should be listed inside the unit.
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Dec 10, 2012 • Maytag Ice2O 24.9 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...
0answers

How to reprogram maytag ice20 after replacing HV board
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Be the first to answer Aug 27, 2012 • Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom...
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2answers

Changed HV board on a Maytag MFI2266AES because ice dispensor and water did not work. Now PEoo ooo is shown on the display where temp read out used to be shown.
Did you check the low voltage supply going to the board? I'm pretty good with that model Only problem is I can't pull that model number up. Looks like you have an extra number or letter. You should get 16 volts from the low voltage side of transformer. Sea Breeze
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Oct 15, 2009 • Maytag MFI2266AES Stainless Steel Bottom...
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1answer

I replaced my HV Control Board on my maytag
First did you program the board correctly and second make sure all the connections to the board you replaced are in correctly. 
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Aug 31, 2009 • Maytag MFI2568AE Side by Side French Door...
4helpful
1answer

Programming hv board
I have the same Maytage MFI2568AEB on the inside top left of the refrigerator the code is 0302, i still cannot enter the code, showing PEO OOO.
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Jan 10, 2009 • Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom...
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MFI2568AEB HV Programming code
I have recently gone through same problem . The cose that was installed in the new control card for MFI2568AEW was 1411.
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Mar 25, 2008 • Maytag (MFI2568AEW) Bottom Freezer French...
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5answers

FRONT DISPLAY SHOWS (PE0-000)
Usually the owners manual would show the error codes so check there first. As for the compressor running, it "should" be cooling if the compressor is running. But lets go back a little, why was the HV board replaced?
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Feb 05, 2007 • Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom...
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I replaced my HV control board on my Maytag MFI2067AES and programmed the code from my refrigerator but the code is not being saved. Do I have the wrong board?

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Curious problem with Maytag fridge I'm having an issue with my french door bottom freezer fridge. Model # mfi2269vew5 I hear a whirring? noise, then a different clattering noise, then the power cuts out for a second. the control panel goes dark, This same cycle repeats for about 15 minutes. Everything seems fine until it starts over again. It seems to happen at least 3 times a day at various times. I'm at work most days so not exactly sure. 8 am, 10 am 3 am..I don't see a pattern. I took a video of the control panel and another video of the inside of the fridge behind the ice maker with the bin removed. That seems like where the noise is coming from. I tried to include the videos here but my question didn't post. They probably don't allow links on this site. My repair guy is puzzled. Of course it doesn't happen when he's here! Any help would be appreciated. I can send the videos if anybody thinks it would help.
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Be the first to answer Dec 15, 2022 • Maytag Refrigerators
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I have a Maytag MFI2067AES the control board was changed and the right code put in. My freezer is working fine but the fridge part is not. And I also changed the fan by the ice machine. Any help would be great thanks
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Be the first to answer Jul 06, 2022 • Maytag Refrigerators
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Maytag Side by Side RSW22EO Refidgerator Freezer , not cold enough. I have a older Maytag (Model No. RSW22EO) Refrigerator/Freezer that uses "R-12 Refrigerant". 3 days ago I noticed it was not keeping things as cold as usual. I tried setting the temperature adjustments to their lowest setting and checked back 24 hours later, and while it did get the freezer to keep things somewhat frozen, both sides (fridge and freezer) are certainly not getting cold enough. I have not checked actual temperatures, ( as I don't have a thermometer), but it is obvious it is not working properly. I pulled the fridge away from the wall and checked to see if dust had excessively accumulated on the radiator and condenser, but since I blow it out yearly, there was very minimal dust accumulation. To my novice ears and eyes, the compressor and fan appear to be working properly, but I can only attest to compressor having a slight vibration and the fan is spinning, but of coarse, that does not meant they are actually functioning at peak performance. My guess is it is low on R-12 Refrigerant, which will require a professional with a EPA 602 license, not to mention limited availability and the ridiculous cost of R-12 refrigerant. If you have any suggestions on how to troubleshoot the problem, I would be very grateful. I have only a basic multi-meter for electrical testing, and I do not have any means or skill to test refrigerant levels. REPAIR PROCESS: Well, since no one had an answer, I thought I would give an update: well, the problem got progressively worse as the freeze was now unable to keep things frozen and the fridge side was not cold at all, so I decided to tear into the project and see what I could find. DISASSEMBLY: To gain access to the parts, I needed to get into the back of the freezer from inside of the freezer compartment. First I removed all the wire basket drawers from the freezer compartment, then I unscrewed the drawer guides from each side of the freezer's inner side walls (these are held in place with two 1/4 inch hex drive screws per rail), Next I removed the Ice maker's plastic bin (actually, I removed this years ago so I cannot recall how I got it out, but I think it just pulls out without any fasteners, but don't quote me on that). Located near the top of the freezer compartment's back wall is a rectangular housing that has the light and the ice maker's motor, this has to be removed as well. It is held in place by 6 stainless Phillips screws (2 on each side and two more along the top edge). Note, to be able to access these fasteners you will need to carefully remove the light's diffuser lens by slightly compressing it to get the tabs on the top and bottom edges to release from the slots (there are not any fasteners in the light lens, and also unscrew and remove the light bulb. Then you should be able to tilt forward/downward the light/motor housing and wiggle it out, but if you cannot get it to come out, you will likely need to remove the entire ice-maker and the panel above the housing we are trying to remove. I was able to get it out, so I did not remove any other parts thus far. Next there are 7 stainless Phillips screws holding in the main back panel (that covers up the condenser coils), 3 screws on each side and 1 centered at the top. Once the screws are removed, simply grab the panel at the top edge, lift it about an inch or two, and then pull it out towards the front, and set aside. DIAGNOSING: Well it became immediately apparent what the problem was, since both the upper and lower condenser coils were completely frozen and frosted over. It was not thawing out as it should. Near the top is a black round thermostat with two wire leads ( one white wire, one blue wire), so before defrosting the freezer, I unplugged the fridge from the wall outlet, and using a multi-meter i tested the thermostat for continuity between the wire leads. Note: this must be done when the temperature on the Thermostat is between 25 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If you cannot test it in the freezer, remove it and stick it in a different freezer before testing. Well, my thermostat was fried, but that was not the only problem... There are two heating elements (glass tubes with spring like heating coils sealed inside), which are located below each condenser coil. one is in the middle and the other is at the bottom just above the drain pan/funnel. Eack one is held in with two 1/4 inch hex drive screws. you may need to bend the metal on each side of the freezer to get the heater assemblies out. Prior to removal. you an test the continuity of the heating elements by tracing the thicker wires back to the jumper-board next to and to the right of the thermostat. Disconnect the spade connectors of these wires and test for continuity. My continuity test failed, so these need to be replaced also. Since these marts are useless, and the wiring connecting the heating elements was entrapped in the condenser coils, I just cut the wires and pulled them out. Upon further inspection, it was clear one of the coil-spring heating elements inside the glass tube had a beak in the middle, and each tube lost it;s seal allowing moisture to enter the glass tubes of the heating elements. I am awaiting parts, but once installed, I am confident the freezer will go into it's scheduled defrost cycles as expected, and all will be working as it should. The only other thing that could have failed would be the defrost timer, but I am not sure where that is or how to test it. I read it may be located behind the front grill below the doors, or it is inside the fridge side near the temperature controls. CONCLUSION: To be determined after I replace the failed parts.... .
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Be the first to answer Jul 01, 2022 • Maytag Refrigerators
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Maytag MFI2568AES Control panel will not switch from water to ice intermittently
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Be the first to answer May 27, 2022 • Maytag Refrigerators

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