How dou you connect the electical wires I connected them and it throws the breaker

Rinnai RU98e is gas water heater with .4 gallon per minute activation.
This tankless gas water heater plugs into ordinary 120Volt 60 Hz outlet and consumes 63 watts when running.

For electric tankless:
Copy following links for illustrated walk-thru and wire-breaker size calculation for electric:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Check all wiring for loose connections, particularly at contactor. Check for short circuit and earth leakage

First turn off the breaker. Once you have the power off, take off the bottom panel.You will see where the electric wire comes into the dishwasher, it should have a small cover over the connections.Take off the cover and you will most likely find that one connection came apart. Be sure to clean up the wires and use new wire nuts and be sure to use electical tape over them.

T103M is 120Volt timer that can handle all the Christmas lights.
Minimum on-off time 1 hour.
Rotate dial until current time lines up with silver pointer.
Set on-off trippers on dial.
Let's go step by step.

1) T103 has terminals A 1 2 3 4 >> terminals are also called poles
DPST (double pole single throw) and SPST (single pole single throw) are two different ways to wire this particular timer.
T103 timer can be wired numerous ways... but your project is not complicated.
DPST means timer turns off two terminals/poles (double pole) with each click/throw of timer switch (single throw)
SPST means timer turns off one terminal/pole (single pole) with each click/throw of timer switch (single throw)

2) T103 timer is ST single throw, all the lights come on at same time. So this timer is 1 channel.
1 channel timers are either ON or OFF and everything turns on-off at same time.
You cannot stagger on-off times with 1 channel timer.
If you want upstairs and downstairs lights to come ON at different times, you need two timers .. or a 2-channel timer (which is different ballgame).

3) T103 timer has 120Volt clock motor that is connected to terminals A and 1.
Look at timer and you can see small white wires connected to A and 1 terminals that power 125V clock motor.
When wiring this timer, your wires from 20 amp breaker box connect to terminals A and 1.
Black hot wire from breaker must connect to terminal 1
White neutral wire from neutral busbar must connect to terminal A
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T103
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

4) Terminal 1 must be hot so when timer switch clicks ON, it sends power to terminal 2.
Your load wires connect to terminals A and 2
I made simple drawing of SPST option showing how to wire T103 to 3 receptacles.
Fixya downgrades image so it's hard to see.
Hot wire to terminal 1
Load wire to terminal 2
Neutrals on terminal A
To see image larger:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/110-600-21Kb.jpg


If you want to wire timer for DPST, which is necessary for loads exceeding 2 horsepower (1500 Watts) on each terminal
Notice black jumper wire from terminal 1 to terminal 3
Notice all white neutral wires to terminal A
To see image larger:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/110-600-17Kb.jpg

I made third image for guy who was wiring high amperage blowers, that show wiring for two T103 timers. Having two timers would let upstairs and downstairs lights come on at different times.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/110-with-2-timers.jpg

http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files/intermatic/products/instructions/timers/e1010%20-%20english.ashx
Half of the online manual is upside down.

According to the manual, the clock motor that operates the timer requires a separate Neutral wire.
The clock motor is a separate circuit, just like your alarm clock.

The wiring is:
Black-hot-from-breaker connects to timer-black wire
Wire-to-Load connects to timer-red wire

Timer-white wire connects to Neutral.
The Neutrals are white wires twisted together and covered with a wire nut.
Not every box has Neutrals ... in that case, connect timer-white wire to bare copper wire.
Bare copper wires connect back to the Neutral busbar in breaker box.
Attaching your white wire to ground is not code, but it will work.

How to test your wires:
Separate wires
Turn on power
Test each wire to bare ground
Tester lights up on Hot wire from breaker
Now test Hot from breaker to each of the other wires, except ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral

Your first thing to do is disconnect power and ck all of your wire connections in the elect box. pay close attention to the neutral wires. Also ck the wiring in the ac its self. Breakers trip due to heat build up. if the wires going to the unit are hot its usually due to a bad connection to small a wire or the breaker its self can be getting weak look for charded and melted wires replace all that look suspiciouse. I do not believe it is the AC since it runs for hours my guess if this is a unit that has been around a while your breaker has gotten tired replace it. good luck and please respect the electricity disconnect before poking around. good luck

To do this safely you should call an electrician. No way I can give you complete instructions that will be sure to be safe because I can't see exactly what the situation is that you have. But the basic steps include: turning off the main, understanding that you are about to expose the feed lugs TO the main which are still LIVE (and giving them a wide berth!), carefully removing the cover, CONFIRMING that everything else in the box is NOT LIVE (use a non-contact voltage detector - $15 or less), removing the wire from the old breaker, pulling the old breaker out, plugging the new breaker in, connecting the wire to the new breaker (nice and tight), replacing the cover and then turning the main back on.

by trips out do you mean shuts off completly?or do you mean it trips off the breaker? check the electical connections on the bottom right corner if this is connected properly then you have a control board or wiring problem and it might be better to call a technician

Sounds like you are only getting 120 volts instead of 240 volts. Either a house electical problem or wiring in range. First go to your breaker and turn it off and on three times and give it a little extra push each time you flip it. ( You can actually flip a breaker off and on without resetting a blown breaker if you doni't push it all the way off and all the way on. If the breaker throws itself off do not reset it. You have an elecrical short in your house or range. If resetting the breaker does not work then you need to test for 240 volts coming into the range. We don't recommend you do any electical testing unless you know what you are doing with electicity. If you have 240 volts going to the range then unplug your range and remove the backing panel off the back of the range. Look for burned wiring or terminal blocks. If there is nothing obvious then you need to know how to read a wiring schematic and use a electical tester to go any farther. Let me know if this helps. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

For 240 if it is a single pole breaker then no. You need a double pole breaker or 2 single breakers , one above the other, connect the red wire to one and the black wire to the other. this way you are drawing from both legs. hope this helps you...