Question about Kenmore 62802 Electric Dryer

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Kenmore Elite Turning Off before clothes are dry...

Hello. I have a Kenmore Elite Dryer, model no - 110.62942100, Serial Number ML1701223. It has EvenHeat with Auto Moisture Sensing Plus.

Here is my problem. When I put a load of laundry, directly out of the dryer, I will turn the knob to a minute setting (say 60 minutes). After about 2 minutes, the dryer thinks the load is dry, which it is not, and turns off. Sometimes, the dryer will turn off 5, 6, 7 times or more. I have stopped using the auto moisture sensor settings, because they apparently don't work. It just turns the dryer off. Sometimes it can take quite a few hours to dry a load of laundry because the machine keeps turning itself off.

Is there a way I can repair this, or at least bypass the Auto Sensing feature, so the dryer will run the number of minutes that I set it to. Please help!

Thanks,
Jenny

Posted by csufeathers on

  • 1 more comment 
  • caerving Jun 24, 2008

    When put in a load of laundry say for 60 mins it runs for a period of time 1,2,maybe 3, mins then shuts off. The knob continues to turn so when you look at the dryer you expect the laundry to be done and it is still wet. Help I have 6 children!!!!!

  • lchaston Jul 02, 2008

    I have the same problem with my dryer turning off after two or three minutes, when the clothes are still wet. I thought it might be that the door latch was loose and the clothes were pushing against the door and breaking the connection, but after fiddling with the door latch, that doesn't seem to be the problem. I'm interested in the idea of cleaning the sensors, but my dryer has the lint trap in the front, not on the top. Where will I find the sensors to clean them?

  • kookie42000 Mar 29, 2009

    moister comes out from my knobs why?...and then my dryer shuts off...takes a while for it to come on....please help

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Repair of a Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 110.62942100
Dryer not heating

I just spent several hours repairing my electric clothes dryer, and wanted to share my experience with others that may wish to do a similar repair. Some of my time was spent reading online postings similar to this one. The majority of my time was spent driving a few times to the Sears Parts Outlet, until I finally got all of the right parts. I could have saved myself a lot of time and effort by doing some simple testing up front. And these tests are real simple, which I will explain below. I wish I knew then what I know now about the repair and troubleshooting steps. It was actually quite easy.

First, the Owner’s Manual is vague about the repair. Under troubleshooting, there is the category of “Not Drying Satisfactorily” with a possible cause that “One fuse is blown or circuit breaker is tripped. The dryer will appear to operate, but you will not get any heat.” The solution says “Replace fuse or reset breaker”. In my case, the circuit breaker was obviously not tripped since the blower motor and controls were still working on the dryer. With that, it felt like the Thermal Fuse 3390719 was the culprit.

Start by unplugging the dryer. Then, the Toe Panel at the front bottom of the dryer comes off easily by inserting a flat head screwdriver along the top edge of the panel, about 4” from the left and the right sides. Pull forward as the screwdriver presses on the retaining clips. The panel is supported by two clips at the bottom, and will then just lift off.

What I found when the toe panel was removed was several years of lint, dust, and animal hair. A surprising amount all over. Having seen this, I suggest that part of Spring cleaning is to remove the toe panel and vacuum the inside of a dryer. Next, to reach the thermal fuse easier, remove the black metal lint duct assembly. Start by removing the lint screen from inside the dryer. Then, remove the two ¼” sheet metal screws on the left and the right of the duct. Now, the only thing holding the lint duct in place is a metal clip at the bottom left, which is pinched in place to the dryer frame. I used a flat head screwdriver to pop it off. The lint duct assembly can now be removed. Here also, I was surprised at how much lint had built up inside the duct. Clean it out thoroughly. Any build up can restrict air flow and waste energy, or be a direct cause to the No Heat problems of the dryer due to poor air flow and heat build up.

With the lint duct out of the way, the thermal fuse is accessible on the top right of the blower housing, as well as the Thermistor 3976615 on its right. What I should have done right here is take the blue wires off of the thermal fuse connectors, and tested it in place for continuity with the fuse still in place. Clean off any dust built up on the inner face of the fuse itself. A basic tester sounded a beep when I touched both connectors, which indicates continuity – or that it is still a good fuse. Install new fuse if needed, and reconnect the wires.

I would do a little more testing first prior to attempting to turn the dryer back on. After all, if the fuse blew, there was a reason. There may still be other things to consider, and you don’t want to risk blowing a brand new fuse.

At this point, I firmly recommend removing the Heater Box and Wire Heater Element assembly. I say this because it actually becomes easier to clean out burnt lint as well as test a few more things. There was enough lint all around and inside this and in the back of the assembly that could have caused overheating due to poor sensor readings.

Start by removing the heat plate at the front. Then, disconnect the six wires from the three devices: heater element, Thermal Cut-Off 3977394 and the Thermostat 3390291. I wrote down the color sequence of the wires to make certain to put them back on the same way. Next, remove the two screws at the bottom of the mounting plate that holds the assembly in place. The heat assembly should now wiggle around some, and be connected at the back of the dryer. There are no screws at the back – all you need to do is rotate the heater assembly counter clockwise about a quarter turn, and it should come out. The entire heater assembly can now be removed from the dryer.

With the Greenlee, I tested for continuity on all three devices: Heater Element, Thermal Cut-Off, and the Thermostat. All three should return an audible beep from the tester, indicating continuity exists. In my case, only the Heater Element was bad and actually had a break in it from overheating. One screw holds the heater element in the housing, so it is easily removed. I had to press on the housing a little to unbind the sides of the heater element, and then it slid right out. The housing can now be cleaned out. Assuming the thermal cut-off and the thermostat tested fine for continuity, all I would do is reach inside the heater housing and clean off the lint and dust build up on these devices, since they appear to be working. Install the new heater element.

While I had everything apart, I cleaned out the flexible duct in the back, vacuumed everywhere inside and out, and even used compressed air to clean out any remaining lint and dust that I could. Reassemble the heater box into the dryer in reverse order. Make sure all of the wires are properly reconnected to all of the devices. Make sure everything is screwed back together properly. Now, reassemble the lint duct by attaching the clip to the dryer and setting the duct in place, and then screwing the two screws back in place. Plug the dryer in and turn it on. If all went well, the heater element should glow orange and there should be heat

Posted on Jul 23, 2010

  • sandjcornwel May 13, 2013

    Outstanding suggestions and clearly written, many thanks. Duh, I went to check our exterior drier vent screen on the side of our house and it was PACKED with lint. But I still took all apart as you suggested and got good readings on three sets of plugs. However, there were two other plugs on the exhaust side of the drum, under the screen, and the smaller one did not have any resistance reading - it was a 1 - no circuit. I've got to find out what that does.

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Two different issues to address. First let's take care of your moisture sensors. If your lint screen is on the top of the washer, look at the back panel on the inside of the drum. If your lint screen is under the door, put you head in the drum and look straight back towards where the lint filter sits. Which ever style you have, you should see 2 silver bars inside. These are you moisture sensors. They work on the principle that when something wet brushes across them, it completes a circuit and tells the unit to keep running. Overtime, they can develop a build up on them and moisture cannot get to the sensors. Therefore the dryer "thinks" the clothes are dry and turns itself off. The easiest way to clean them is either using the "rough" side of a double sided sponge or for slightly worse/ stubborn build up you can use a fine grit sand paper. Rub either of these back and forth across your sensors to clean them up.
Now the second thing I wanted to check on was you said that you stopped using the auto sensing feature and then later you said sometimes it can take quite a few hours to dry a load. Now if you have stopped using the auto sensing AND it is still taking quite a few hours, then read on, otherwise you should be all set. However if you are still having hours of drying time on your timed dry cyles as well, then read on. From the dryer side, using a vaccume cleaner attachment (availible at most appliance parts stores) to clean out under your lint screen can help. Also check the vent between the wall and rear of the dryer. Is it bent or kinked? Remove it and clean it out as well once it is straightened. Lastly, you could have a restriction in the house portion of your vent. Again appliance parts stores generally sell a cleaning kit for the house portion or there are companies that specialize in dryer vent cleaning as well.
Sorry if you didn't need the last portion, but I just wanted to make sure we covered all of the problems you were having. Drop me a note back if you need anything else.

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

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