Question about Hitachi 43F300 43" Rear Projection Television
The problem your TV is in the convergence.the two STK chip IC is there defected already and some associated resistor connecting the pins of that IC.if you change your is finish .look for a repairman to do works take the STK and replace.
Posted on Jun 24, 2008
This convergence IC issue is hitting a lot of older CRT-RPTVs
(all manufacturers since similar ICs are used). There could be issues
with the ICs, the resistors, cracked solder on the board, or all of
these. The parts can be purchased for under $100 for DIY'ers. The
repair done by a pro is typically $3-400. Once repaired, a proper
manual convergence is usually necessary and the TV looks like new
If you replace only the ICs and there is a problem with the resistors, the ICs may blow again almost immediately, so while the board is out, replace the appropriate resistors - if you buy the "kits" everything will be supplied. You should also check the board for cracked solder. Since the ICs are relatively inexpensive, you should always replace both (or however many there are) ICs when doing the repair.
If you've done the repair and something doesn't work correctly and you've tried everything else, try unplugging the TV overnight. This has resolved issues for 1-2 people.
Here are the instructions for how to do a DCAM convergence. You don't have to open the TV to do it. This is a different mode than the service menu. These instructions are mostly from the service manual with some added comments from a poster on the avs forum.
Manual Convergence for the Hitachi
1) Receive an NTSC signal.
2) Press Magic Focus to begin magic focus
3) Press magic focus again during the magic focus process to get the "stop" screen
4) While stop screen is up, press STATUS or INFO on the remote control (R/C) to bring you to DCAM mode and
the service grid
5) When you first get in here? I believe red is the selected color by default (it is flashing).
6) To choose other colors to converge, use the following buttons on the R/C:
a) "STATUS" - Green
b) "0" - Red
c) "ANT" - Blue
7) Start from the center of the screen and work your way out on one color at a time. I adjusted red across the
whole screen to match green. Then I switched to blue, and adjusted that to green as well. After you adjust blue, you
may want to go back and adjust some red again? etc. until the convergence looks good.
(a) Use 4, 6, 2, and 5 on the R/C to move the cursor position(dotted lines).
(b) Use thumb stick to move the convergence point color.
** There have been other posts in here to tape together the color filters found in the Avia DVD to help converge
lines more easily. I have used this method, and it works well for adjusting to a greater detail. Basically, you put the
red filter next to the green and adjust your red to the green line both horizontally, and then vertically. Then you do
the same with the blue next to the green. Some people recommended you should be at normal viewing distance. I
did mine from just a few feet back from the set. Maybe my eyes aren?t as good? maybe I just felt like it worked
better this way. There are some other posts also recommending using binoculars. I think it?s great that people
suggest things to make the process easier? but my girlfriend would think I was insane if she saw me with
binoculars on the couch adjusting the convergence. I don?t know? whatever works best I guess.
8 ) I did not adjust the green at all. I use the green as the guide and did not adjust the location of any green point.
This is highly suggested unless you have geometry problems.
9) When going along the lines and adjusting, you may run into the problem of getting an "S" curve on the line.
You?ll know if you get there. Basically, no matter what you do to adjust the line to be converged, the middle of the
line between the points will not straighten out (it bends between the points). To fix this, the manual recommends
going to the (7x5) mode which gives you less points to adjust. I had this problem, and the solution worked. There is
also another mode (3x3) which gives you even less points. Basically, if the set looks good, you only fine tune it in
(13x9) mode. If you have serious problems, the grids work as:
3x3 - "coarse"
7x5 - "medium"
13x9 - "fine"
10) To get to each of these patterns use the following on the R/C: (only if you need to)
1. (3x3) Press "STATUS" 5 times (only works when DCU is in uncorrected state)
2. (7x5) Press "0" 5 times
3. (13x9) Press "ANT" 5 times
Note: The grid size doesn't change, but the cursor "skips" a line.
11) If you adjust the 3x3, then you should go to the 7x5, and then the 13x9. You get the point? depending on where
you start, work your way up, and always finish on the 13x9
12) When finishing up the 13x9 mode, to get additional ?grids? on the edges of the screen, press the PIP CH button
on the remote control while in the digital convergence adjustment mode (DCAM). Fine tune the edge convergence
as necessary. To exit, press PIP CH again.
13) When convergence is acceptable, press PIP MODE to write data to ROM memory. ROM WRITE? is displayed
to alarm system that ROM will be overwritten with new data. Press the PIP MODE button again to write
displayed data to ROM.
14) DATA WRITE TO ROM will take approximately 4 seconds and no picture will be displayed.
15) Green dots will be displayed when operation is completed.
WARNING: YOU MUST DO THE FOLLOWING STEPS TO COMPLETE MAGIC FOCUS
INITIALIZATION!!! THERE HAVE BEEN MANY POSTS THAT PEOPLE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS
WITHOUT DOING THIS STEP BECAUSE THEY LOOSE MAGIC FOCUS!
16) Press MUTE to return to convergence pattern, then confirm again convergence is acceptable.
17) Press PIP MODE and then PIP CH to initialize Magic Focus. The initialize operation starts and several
windows appear during this operation. It takes about 30 seconds or less.
18 ) When green dots appear, initialize operation is finished.
19) Turn power OFF.
21) Wait a few seconds. Turn the TV on, and you should have your normal signal. Press Magic Focus button just
to make sure the magic focus still works (and that you did the last few steps properly)
For those of you with newer Hitachi models like the S & T500 with different remotes, the following was supplied courtesy of BmC...
...taken from the T500 service manual: assuming you're already in the DCAM mode. Follow this exactly and you will reinitialize your magic focus to your new setting. the T and S models are pretty much the same with some added feature.
(1) Receive any NTSC signal.
(2) Start adjustment at the center of the screen.
(3) Continue adjustment at next closest position.
(4) Adjust center area first, ending with edge sections.
(5) Press VID3 button to perform calculation operation.
This process will take about 1 second and no picture
will be seen at this time.
(6) After interpolation, check convergence again and
repeat (1)-(5) if necessary.
(7) When convergence is acceptable, press PIP MODE
to write data to ROM memory. ROM WRITE? is
displayed to alarm system that ROM will be
overwritten with new data. Press the PIP MODE
button again to write displayed data to ROM.
(8 ) DATA WRITE TO ROM will take approximately 4
seconds and no picture will be displayed.
(9) Green dots will be displayed when operation is
(10) Press MUTE to return to convergence pattern, then
confirm again convergence is acceptable.
(11) Press PIP MODE (ROM WRITE) mode, then press
SURF to initialize sensor data positions.
if not you can order the ic replacement for this hitachi the kits are sold here.
also another good link is electronix they also sell the capacitors and IC's and repair kits for your model. They have lots of good capacitation meters for a good price check it out here.
Posted on Jun 24, 2008
Please click on this link:
1) Main cause of defective will be located on the KD-board
2) Confi rm KD-board is securely seated on the G2-board
3) Replace KD-board
Thats a fairly complex Chassis. Unless youre really good at dissassemble and reassembly of small components, I would suggest authorized reapir tech do the repair.
Certainly, I can help you. I would recommend going to the following link and getting the service manual so he can see first hand disassembly instructions and testing proceedures. Its only 10.99 and they email it to you shortly after purchase. The manual is a valuable resource as it will have part numbers in case you do need a new KD board. heres the link.
Posted on Jun 24, 2008
Turn the brightness, contrast, and color controls all the way down. Center the tint control (NTSC, may not be present on PAL sets).
Increase the brightness until a raster is just visible in the darkest (shadow) areas of the picture and then back off until it **just** disappears.
Increase the contrast until the desired intensity of highlights is obtained.
Since brightness and contrast are not always independent, go back and forth until you get the best picture.
Initially adjust the color control for pastel shades rather than highly saturated color. Set the tint control for best flesh tones.
Then, increase the color control to obtain the desired degree of color saturation
Hope that helps..........
Posted on Jun 23, 2008
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