How do I change jointer knives - Garden

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Lower the in feed table to keep it clear of your work, hold a straight edge on the out feed table, both sides, adj the knives to just touch the straight edge, both sides the same, all knives set the same, should work like a charm, do not answer the phone while you are doing this. check all jib screws twice to make sure they are tight. Hope this helps.

First, safety stuff: Make sure the jointer is unplugged and be very careful with the knives, they are quite sharp.
You should have enough room between the tables to get the knives out, if not remove the stationary, outfeed table. There are four hex-cap screws on each knife that hold the clamp bar on. Remove them with an allen wrench or hex driver if you have one and take the clamp bar and knife out. Pay attention to which way the bevel is on the knife so you put them back on the same way. If the blades have never been turned, they are double sided and can be turned around so the opposite side is out. The knife and clamp bar are designed to go on only the right way. Make sure you get the hex-bolts on very tight. Do the other knife, replace the table and make a couple test runs to check allignment.

Hello,
Adjusting a jointer to relieve snipe can be trickey but here are a few procedures that will help.

-The two tables on the jointer are adjustable, the front (infeed) is what you adjust for cut depth.
- The back (outfeed) needs to be the exact hieght as your knives

The outfeed needs to be adjusted first
-unplug jointer
-using a straight edge on the outfeed table adjust it so that when you turn the head (counter clockwise) the knives just touch the staight edge (NOTE** all the knives should touch the straight edge the same, if not your knives are not set correctly) This is your most important adjustment, if the outfeed is to high or to low it will cause inconsistant jointing.
-Now that the outfeed is trued up to the head you can adjust the infeed table, using the straight edge align it so that it is perfectly lined up with the outfeed table (not touching the kinives) Your jointer is now at ZERO

You can now adjust the infeed for depth of cut, Start by lowering the infeed a very small amount (1/16 of a inch to start)

The biggest problem I have seen is that people try to cut to much at one time, it will work alot better if you take several small cuts instead of one deep cut.

Also- getting the knives set perfectly in the head is a key to success, if this is not happening you WILL have jointing problems. ALSO if the knives are not sharp they will pull the material down causing snipe.

I really hope this helps and if you need a visual aid try looking it up on you tube.

I have used my jointer for numerous different projects, Here is a cool one for tapered table legs.
Take a piece of square stock (like 2x2 ) about 3 feet long, make a mark about 2 foot up and wrap a piece of tape around it at the mark.
now make a mark (we will call it a stop mark) on the fence of the jointer by the head.
with a pencil and number the edges on the 2x2 (above the tape so you dont joint them off)

turn on jointer and run side 1 until your tape is at the fence mark, carefully lift 2x2 and do the same to the 2 side.
only joint the #1 & #2 sides, run several more times and you will have a perfect tapered leg.

SHOP DOG

Go to eReplacementParts.com : Power Tool Parts and Tool Repair.


If you need more help come back.Post / thumbs / testimonial are welcome!

The knives could be dull, you would have to be the judge of that. If the bevel & face are rusty they are probably dull. They can be honed or taken to a sharpening shop.

The outfeed table could also be too high. I usually adjust the knives above the outfeed table. I use an aluminum straight edge & adjust them using a sheet of printer paper on the outfeed table so that they are about the thickness of the paper above the table. I place the paper on the outfeed table put the straightedge on the paper & rotate & adjust each knife so they just slightly hit the straightedge when I rotate the cutterhead by hand. Needless to say the jointer needs to be unplugged while doing this.

The board could also be convex to start with. To fix that problerm start jointing at the start of the convex part and not at the end of the board.

Good luck,
Frank

I can send you pics of the one I made from plywood for this same jointer. If you're looking for an original I can't help you there.

Most reliable sharpening services will be able to grind knives for your jointer that will work just fine. The key is to match the existing knives as far as thickness (guage) and height of the new knives. You want them to give you maximum life but not extend too far past the cutterhead when adjusted all the way down. I don't know about your machine, but on an 8" powermatic the tip of the knife shouldn't extend more than about .0012" above the circumference of the cutterhead. You can check this with a set of calipers and give the height to the sharpener, then just choose high speed steel or carbide and you're on your way.
If you check the overall length of the knives, sometimes they are slightly under the nominal length, and a 6" long knife could bump into the housing as the cutterhead rotates, so this is one other thing to check before you go ahead and order them 6" long.
But the short answer is, no problem. Just get a reliable sharpener to make them for you, buy a quality steel blank, and have him put a fine grit polish or hone on the knives when he sharpens them...

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

I can't help you with the knives, but I can help you with the motor - you need to find the plate on the motor with its specs. If it has a horsepower rating, just replace with the same horsepower. If it doesn't show a horsepower rating, I need the amperage (FLA), and the voltage, I can determine it from that. Please get back to me with both the horsepower rating and the voltage and FLA if you can, and tell me what voltage you are going to hook up to.

I can't get a hit on that number, the model must be other. But it shouldn't be too hard.
Try to find a reliable sharpening service in your area; someone who does saw blades and knives for the cabinet shops will have a source for tool steel and carbide and can make you a set of knives for your jointer. Just get tool steel. While it won't hold it's edge quite as long as carbide knives, it will take a sharper edge to begin with, and should last just fine if you don't run sand through it.
If you have the original knives, hang onto them as they most likely can be resharpened to like new condition, and steel today ain't necessarily what it used to be.
The critical factor is the height. It's usually between 5/8" and 3/4" tall. You want them to be able to rest all the way down on the adjustable pistons without sticking up more than 10-15 thousands above the cutterhead. That will give you the most resharpenings from a set. You might want to invest in a magnaset to help with setting the knives in place.
Here's a link to the sharpening service I use: http://maps.google.com/maps?rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=Precision+sharpening+%2B+Albuquerque,+NM&fb=1&split=1&gl=us&view=text&latlng=15322695688682105671
Finally, I would almost bet some contemporary delta replacement knives would work. If you find a place that will return your funds if they don't, you might be able to order them online. These guys will carry them if you can't find someone nearer you: http://woodworker.com


If I've answered your question or solved a problem, please take a moment to rate this posting...thanks!