Good morning, I have 01 Hobart dishwasher AM14, i need to be replace rinse sensor probe and temperature sensor for booster heater.But I can't to find Hobart part number Please help me.Thank you.

If your Hobart AM15 dishwasher is displaying an AH error code on start up, it usually indicates that there is an issue with the booster heater. AH stands for "Booster Heater Circuit".
Here are some troubleshooting steps you can follow to resolve the issue:

1. Check the booster heater temperature sensor. It may be dirty or faulty, preventing the booster heater from functioning properly. Clean or replace the temperature sensor if necessary.
2. Check the booster heater element for continuity. If the element is broken, it will need to be replaced.
3. Inspect the wiring and connections between the booster heater and the control board. Loose or damaged connections can prevent the booster heater from functioning properly.
4. Check the booster heater relay on the control board. If the relay is faulty, it will need to be replaced.

If none of these steps resolve the issue, you may need to contact a professional technician to diagnose and repair the problem.

your right dont guess the board is bad!

you need 180 degree water to the unit from the water heater unless it has its own heater.

P3 refers to one of the dishwasher's three temperature sensors: sump temperature, booster heater temperature, or rinse water temperature. The dishwashers control circuitry has determined one of them is open or shorted, or at least out of range.

Judging from the symptom you mentioned, that you see rapid temperature reading changes before it finishes filling, I'd say it's probably the sump probe (because that's the temperature displayed during the fill cycle), located under the large removeable screen inside the dishwasher.

To test or replace, remove the small access panel at the lower front of the dishwasher (2 screws).
After the dishwasher has reached a good normal operating temperature, unplug the sump probe connector (white plastic connector with two small black wires going to it and coming from the area mentioned above where the temp. probe is. Using a multimeter, test the resistance of the probe. If the water in the dishwasher is hot (150 deg. F or more), you should read somewhere in the area of 5,000 to 10,000 ohms. If your measurement varies significantly from this range, replace the probe- most likely you'll see a reading near zero ohms or a very high reading, possibly an open-circuit probe (infinite resistance i.e. "OL" indicated on most multimeters).

It's possible I'm wrong about which temp. probe P3 refers to. There is also a temp. probe on the booster heater and one on the rinse piping on the rear of the dishwasher. Test procedure is the same for all of them, although the probe on the rinse piping is not constantly subjected to hot water so testing at room temperature would result in higher resistance value (lower temperature means higher resistance for these temperature probes).

Probably a bad booster tank termperature probe (thermistor). This is threaded into the booster heater and has two small black wires entering it.

The following procedure will result in a some water coming out of the booster heater. Allow the booster heater to completely cool, and shut off the circuit breaker for the dishwasher before proceding.

Prepare a new temp. probe with teflon tape, then unscrew the old probe from the booster heater and quickly install the new probe. Assuming the heater is cooled, you can hold your finger over the hole vacated by the old probe to prevent excessive water from pouring out of the booster heater.

Hobart AM-14 will wash and rinse in manual, but not in automatic

3 Con, is the booster heat contactor. If it is chattering, the fault will be in the booster. There are a few different boosters in the AM14. can you post the ML number from the data plate, or describe if the booster is a square Hatco HCM-10, or a round stainless booster with a 13 kw multi wired element.. All boosters use a low water cut off circuit, a high limit thermostat and a control thermostat. The old Hatcobooster uses mechanicqal components, where the new rount tank uses probes and a control board. The board has 3 leds. red is calling for heat, yellow is open thermistor, and green is shorted thermistor.
AM14's had a variety of different control circuit voltages, ranging from 240/208/120 and 24 volt AC. Check the transformer secondary for correct output to controls, trace through circuit until voltage pulses. If new style, it could be just scaled up probes not reading water. Drain the tank with the power off before removing probes.

If standing in front of the dishwasher,look to the right in the back on top you will see a valve and guage.You will see the rinse/fill pipe and the probe screws into that.I'm a hobart tech--Any questions let me know.

How hot is the wash temp?It should be 150-165 degrees.The model is an am14 not an am15?I'm hobart tech and repair these units weekly.Let ne know.

The answer to this question will be based on the incoming water temperature that is supplied to the booster heater. The standard sizing for a booster heater is based off of a 40 degree F rise (140 degree F incoming water temperature) or a 70 degree F rise (110 degree F incoming water temperature). For a 40 degree F rise, a Hatco model C-5, S-5, or PMG-60 will supply the needed amount of rinse water for the LX-18 Hobart dishwasher. A 70 degree F rise would require a Hatco model C-9, S-9, or PMG-60 to supply the same Hobart model number.