Question about Hayward H-series Electronic Gas Pool Heater H400

3 Answers

Hayward heater making a loud banging, knocking noise.

Posted by dvilla59 on

  • TERRY Mar 31, 2015

    Banging and knocking usually means water is boiling due to a lack of flow in the heater. I had this problem and it turned out to be the internal bypass. The bypass was broken inside. Turn everthing off get the parts and remove the manifold where the water goes in and comes out. Hayward used to sell a kit to replace the bypass valve.

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3 Answers

Kieran Ruppert

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If you have an external by-pass it needs to be closed. This will be a valve between the pipes in and out of the heater. When you close it, it forces water through the heater. When it is open no water goes through the heater. So the water in the heater boils and turns to steam. With no where to go it starts banging and jumping.
If you close this valve or it is closed and you still have trouble the internal by-pass has gone bad. The overheating from the first problem will often cause this.
You remove the water header from the side of the heater and pull the pipes from it. In reality you will probably have to pull the gas pipe so you can move the heater from the pipes. You will find the assembly inside the manifold. It will probably come out in pieces but the new one goes back in as a unit.
This will regulate your water flow and keep it heating at a constant temp.

Posted on Nov 20, 2010

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  • jim_hoerner May 29, 2011

    The banging, creaking, pinging, and shaking is caused by insufficient flow through the heat exchanger, and the water is flashing to steam. It is not safe to operate the heater when this is happening.

    The reduced flow can be caused by the following conditions:
    - dirty filter/pump basket (you would not have sufficient flow in more than just the heat exchanger if this is your problem)
    - bypass valve in front header stuck open (most likely)
    - thermostatic control valve in front header stuck closed (can remove it to test)
    - obstruction in piping/heater such as pool vinyl, rock, frog, etc. An obstruction in the heater can be observed by removing the rear header and turning on your pump (heater off). Flow should come out of all tubes after a few seconds).
    - eroded rear header internals (my problem this time). There is a divider plate molded as part of the rear header that wears away over time (10 years for me). If eroded enough, it will allow flow to travel from one side of the rear header to the other, bypassing heat exchanger tubing.
    - worn pump impeller (you would not have sufficient flow in more than just the heat exchanger if this is your problem)
    Jim Hoerner

  • Scott Corey-reid Dec 02, 2014

    jim is 100% correct. banging noise is from the water inside the headers overheating.check internal bypass or thermal regulator if you have one

  • Mike Tellegen Apr 04, 2015

    Dangerous situation. Steam is a powerful substance, it was used at one time to move Locomotives!!! Lucky all you're hearing is some loud banging inland clanging?

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  • Hayward Master
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If heat exchanger has not been destroyed, you will probably have to deal with calcium buildup or lime build up up internally of that heat exchanger. It can be cleaned. But if it's too far gone, you will have to replace the heat exchanger!, and make sure you identify what the problem of the low water flow was! Then repair it!

Posted on Apr 04, 2015

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Heater works but makes a loud howling/roaring noise and it gets louder as it heats up

Posted on Apr 05, 2011

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john224

John Prohaska

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SOURCE: Loud noises, shaking, visible white powder in chlorinator

Stop using the heater immediately. You are boiling the water inside and this can lead to a dangerous situation if a limit switch fails to act in time.

You will likely find the diverter in the inlet side of the heater is broken. You are looking for a stainless steel plate in the water path. If you can move it by hand, it is broke. It is not replaceable and requires a new heat exchanger assembly to repair it.

Your part number is IDXHXA1101. We sell it as will most pool dealers. If you would like a quote, contact us at www.arrowmotor.net

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

app_3rp12317

app_3rp12317

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SOURCE: Loud noises, shaking, visible white powder in chlorinator

See this page:https://sites.google.com/site/haywardpoolheater/

For info about the part that breaks and how to fix it. YMMV.

Posted on Jan 06, 2012

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2 Answers

Model h100id banging noise when turned on shuts off


VERY low water flow!
Or... No water flow.
This heater as all heaters do, need to have sufficient water flow thru them, or else they Bang like this.
This then creates a problem, for future banging - due to lime up!
The minimal water flow gets so Overheated, that it turns to steam! The steam knocks and pushes the heater around, then the Minerals will precipitate out of the water and forcefully attach to the inside walls of the heat exchanger! Which will then drastically reduce the inner diameter of the exchanger making a much smaller passageway for water to travel thru! This is a major problem to remain this way. It will then need to be dismantled and de-limed to increase the holes once more, and allow a proper water flow.

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When the burners ignite, within one minute it starts making a loud banging noise and then the HS code comes on and it shuts down. the noise continues for about 15 to 30 seconds after the burners shut...


This sounds like a low water flow situation. The heater is telling you that the high limit sensor is curring heater operation. The noises are the heat exchangers boiling the water either due to a blockage in the exchanger , a bad mixing vlve, or most likely poor water flow. This is tough to troubleshoot through a posting like this, but 1st thing is 1st. Check your water flow and make sure it is minimum 50 Gallons per minute.

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I have a H100ID1 natural gas heater. For the past 2 weeks it has been heating the water but making a loud banging noise and shaking the whole heater. It stopped making the noise and won't heat the water....


Is it leaking? Has anything shaken loose inside? If you can get it to light the cause and fix for the banging and shaking is here: https://sites.google.com/site/haywardpoolheater/
Takes about 30 minute and you are done, but you have to figure out what else has gone wrong to stop it lighting

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Heater making loud noises


I had this problem with mine ( hayward h series abg100 ): exhaust fan turned on, waited approx 15sec, gas turned on, ignition, flame lit (can verify in flame window below knob), stayed lit for ~5-10 seconds (varied), I heard popping, cracking, knocking, banging noises, then gas turned off.

I believe the reason it does this is the bypass/diverter plate in the exchanger (right at the inlet side) is loose; the weld broke loose. They weld this very poorly and is obviously a known issue with the unit. I think storing it outside in the winter doesnt help. Another reason for the noise could be not enough water going through the exchanger because of a problem with the diverter plate, therefore the exchange gets to hot and boils.

I believe the ignition board senses this somehow (not sure how though, only way I can think of is via the ignition sensor), and cuts off the gas. I managed to fix this by putting on a small stainless steel hose clamp around the thermostat forcing the divertor plate tight up against the top so the water flows through the 3 exchange pipes. This was a very difficult maneuver due to working inside the tight pipe, but it worked!

You can check if you have the same problem as me by taking off your hose input to the heater, and removing the outer 2 PVC reducer connectors. Then you'll have access and sight to the exchanger input (3" pipe?) and should see what I'm talking about. If the plate moves (or isn't tight) then you most likely have the same issue. [email protected] if you have questions.

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2 Answers

Loud noises, shaking, visible white powder in chlorinator


Stop using the heater immediately. You are boiling the water inside and this can lead to a dangerous situation if a limit switch fails to act in time.

You will likely find the diverter in the inlet side of the heater is broken. You are looking for a stainless steel plate in the water path. If you can move it by hand, it is broke. It is not replaceable and requires a new heat exchanger assembly to repair it.

Your part number is IDXHXA1101. We sell it as will most pool dealers. If you would like a quote, contact us at www.arrowmotor.net

Jun 16, 2009 | Hayward H Series Induced Draft Abg 100,000...

1 Answer

Heater runs but there is load banging and knocking


Poor flow, try cleaning the filter. If it is a cartridge, try a brand new element. Next would be to inspect the bypass in the header to ensure it is sound.

Jun 11, 2009 | Hayward H Series Pool & Spa Heater 400k...

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