Question about Maytag Refrigerators

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The right hand light switch broke. Switch was removed and now I can't plug the replacement into the switch because the switch is molded into the cavity of refrigerator body and the receptable connector does not move. I'm unable to pull the connector out of the cavity to mate it with the new switch. HELP !!!

Posted by samv30 on


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Melissa Martin

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The foam is holding it and welcome to appliance repair, manufacturers install these parts and then put the expanding foam in place. This acts like glue. You will have to keep working at it until you can remove it. Good luck, you will need it

Posted on Jan 01, 2018


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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 3-speed switch replaced with hampton bay switch. Only low speed works.

The cause to the problem was replacing a HUNTER fan switch with a Hampton Bay switch. Before removing the old switch, I noted and marked the color and position of the 4 wires. I then duplicated the connections to the new switch.

But the wire positions of Hampton Bay vs Hunter are not identical, therefore 2 wires
were crossed.

The correct way is to note the color of the wires with the corresponding NUMBER
marked on the switches, then duplicate this on the new one.


Posted on Jul 24, 2008



  • 417 Answers

SOURCE: Bathroom Pull switch

There are two possibilities here,

1. it is a mechanical failure i.e a part of the linkage has broken leaving the switch in the on position, did you see anything obviously wrong with the old switch?

2. It is an electrical failure either overload or arcing when the switch is being operated sometimes welding the contacts together. This can happen if the light is a fluorescent tube or ring type, which in combination with the fan start up, can cause this situation. If this is the case you need a higher current rated switch.

Please remember to rate this solution.

Posted on Nov 03, 2008

Joe McG

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: 650 refrigerator door light switch

Go to Sub and click the showroom locator on the top left of the screen. This will take you to a locator to find the authorized parts distributor for your area I beleive the part number is 3060140 . Once you have the part remove the three phillips head screws that hold the grill in place this is assuming you don't have the louvered grill. There is a grey power cord with a white quick connect seperate this or turn the power off at the circuit breaker. You will be working on live electricity if you don't.Not good for yu life expectancy. There is one more phillips head screw for the cover of the two switches. The light switch has a white back and the fan switch has a black one. Remove the two wires then push it down and slip the new one in. Replace all that you took off. While you have the grill off vacuum the condensor.

Posted on Dec 02, 2008


  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: Brake Light switch removal GMC PC

just unplug and unscrew its threaded like a bolt

Posted on Mar 28, 2009


Clint Smock

  • 4669 Answers

SOURCE: No Brake Lights, unable to switch from park to drive

It is not the multifunction switch. The power feed goes thru the brake switch before the multi function. You have no power the the brake switch because your shift interlock is not allowing you to shift it. I'll look up the wiring diagram and repost with a solution.

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

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I have a 2000 searies 2166 cub only runs wen key is in start position assoon as you let off it dies

What you are describing Steve, sounds like a faulty ingnition switch. The 'start' position is only a 'momentary' contact that when released removes power from the starter motor circuit but leaves power to the 'ignition' so the engine will continue to run. It kinda sounds like the contact that maintains connection to the 'ignition' circuit is faulty. You should not run it the way you described because you are also probably keeping the starter motor engaged along with the engine which will kill the starter soon.

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