Reinstalled MP610 but printing edges still not clear. It's almost as if there are tiny handles spaced around the edge of images (bracketing where the lines used to be before I changed ink.. What could be the problem?

DARN SMALL THINGS ON MOST LADY'S JEWELRY.
I USE SMALL SHARP KITCHEN KNIFE / PARING KNIFE.
I USE THE THIN EDGE NEAR THE POINT, PLACE IT
UNDER THE TINY SPACE IN THE COVER'S EDGE THEN GENTLY LIFT THE KNIFE EDGE UP.SOME WATCHES SHOW BATTERY CODE NEEDED FOR REPLACEMENT.

Other than a bad digitizer (touchscreen) or connection, sometimes just a tiny bit of gunk/debris gets in that tiny gap that goes around the outside of the screen. That often results in the same problem,, a non-working touchscreen. Take a very thin edged piece if cut plastic as a "tool" to clear out gunk/debris from this gap around the edge of the screen. Some people even have used like the opposite end of a sewing needle (not the pointed end).
Many ppl have fixed a non-working screen simply by cleaning out this tiny edge gunk. Give that a shot as a first step. If you use care, you won't damage anything.

for passenger side:
1. unclip screw cover 'center flap' of inside door opener plastic cover, flap is 3/8"x 3/8" (center of plastic cover)
2. remove phillips screw now showing
3. push fabric panel (edge of door opener plastic cover-at hinged end of chrome handle) to allow uncliping of edge of plastic cover (top rt & lwr rt (for passenger side) of plastic cover)
4. open chrome inside door handle to allow plastic cover to be removed-slide plastic cover toward rear, free end of door to remove cover
5. remove switch panel-gently pry with wide non maring pry bar (cover wide blade screwdriver using cloth) do rear of sw panel 1st (don't pry front edge)
6. slide switch panel toward rear to allow removal
7. remove large phillips screw under sw panel
8. remove the 2 plastic covers near top, hinge edge -use plastic spoon handles to encourage caps to pop off. May also require small screwdriver approx 1/8" in to complete pop off
9. remove the 2 phillips screws w/ captive washers
10. remove 3 phillips/hex screws along the bottom inside of door panel
11. on outside/rear edge of panel push the 2 center pins of each in about 1/8"-this allows the clip to be pulled out w/ pin pushed in
12. remove plastic cover (REAR OF SIDE MIRROR)-pull window edge up and back.
13. lift rear of door panel (not hinge edge) up allow hinge edge to pivot around lower pin in door (hinge edge)
14. remove the 2 rt edge "L" brackets (gently pry center plastic pin out) (note the color and replace as removed)
15. slowly peel the clear plastc away from the non hinged end to expose the plastic panel with 3 phillips head screws
16. remove the 3 screws and panel for access to door handle.
17. using access area now available unlatch the rod attached to exterior door handle (unclip plastic to rotate clip up to allow rod to slide out-toward hinged edge)
18. using access area now available remove rod from ext door handle from inside door area
19. remove the 3 -10mm head bolts
20. remove the ext door handle (bottom edge out first)
reverse order to replace door handle

the hp 1022 is not capable of printing edge to edge for that matter very very VERY few can. the problem is that the printer needs to be able to move the paper through the machine without distorting the printed image and this requires a LEAD EDGE usually about 3-5mm edge to edge down the long side of the paper the printer is able to get quite close to edge at 2-3mm either side but NOT EDGE to EDGE the only real way of accomplishing true edge to edge is to overprint and trim the final page to size.e.g. print on A3 and cut to A4

No this is phisically impossible, try a larger sheet of paper and cut it

The repeating image is a ghost image, and here is described what it can be. Probably if you solve this, you also solve the red-dot problem. If possible, I would suggest to replace the wiper blade.
Repeating images on laser printerThis likely means a faint ghost of the main printout at a distance equal to the circumference of one of the rollers or photosensitive drum.

Depending on where the problem originates, this could be a bad wiper (cleaning) blade, faulty corona, or incomplete fusing.

• If the distance between successive images is equal to the circumference of the photosensitive drum, it is a wiper blade, erase lamp, or corona problem.A residual latent image or residual toner is sticking to the drum and not being properly cleared.
  
  
• If the distance between successive images is equal to the circumference of one of the fuser rollers, then the fusing may not be complete due to damaged rollers or an incorrect temperature setting.

It is easy to determine where the problem is located: Interrupt a printout in mid-stride (where part of the paper is between the toner/developer and fuser. If the un-fused image has ghosting, it is a fault in the area of the drum

I had this problem and what I figured out is that there is random stray light getting through between the holder and the slide itself. So, I created another template and taped it to the holder. The goal is to eliminate the stray light. This is how I did it basically. Get a black sheet of construction paper. Line it up with the Epson slide template and cut out holes for each slide so just the image/film plus a tiny edge around is exposed.

Thoroughly clean all the ink residue from around the ink cartridges, some ink is sprayed every time you print.

I don't know many inkjet printers that can print to the edge of the page on all four sides. The area in which the rollers feed the paper often can't be printed to and neither can the very bottom.

The G85 does not support edge to edge printing, it requires a top margin of 0.08:, a bottom margin of 0.46" and side margins of 0.25".

Regards,
Bob Headrick, MS MVP Printing/Imaging