Hi, I have a problem with loose front bearing. What is the correct way of removing the plastic hub covers to access the axle nuts without wrecking them or the alumin hub edge? Many thanks

Hello, If you Chrysler has replaceable wheel bearings and seal. This is the way it goes---pack the wheel bearing with new grease-install the bearing in the wheel nub--install new back wheel seal--coat the axle shaft with grease lightly, thing coat-----install wheel hub on to axle shaft...be careful here don't damage the rear hub seal------------insert front race washer---install axle shaft nut--tighten nut down wheel nut until it is firm with water pump pliers----spin the hub/with tire mounted.
(the wheel and hub will turn but not freely)----take the pliers and back off the axle nut 1/4 turn----now spin the wheel and axle hub, it should spin freely---now if doesn't spin freely---back off the axle nut about 1/16 or 1/32 (or just a little bit)-----now, spin the wheel and hub and if turn freely------------Now grab the top of the wheel/tire and move it back and forth.-----if there is some movement ---try tighten the axle nut just a little little bit, unit the one can barely feel some little movement in the wheel/tire and hub.-----------Now, spin the wheel/tire and hub and it should also turn freely.

If it does----install new and correct size of cotter pin and bent the ends around the axle nut.----

coat the inside of the hub cup with grease. Now, use an rubber or plastic hammer to install the cup on the wheel/tire hub. You are finished with one wheel bearing maintenance. Now do the other side.



I really don't know if you Chrysler Cirrus has replaceable wheel bearing. All the auto/trucks have replaceable hubs, that means that the replacement is total hub with axle shaft, sealed bearings, and seals. This is bolt to each wheel steering hub. This work to remove these one unit hubs.

Four bolts hold the axle hub to the steering hub. Hear is the problem!! it has rusted to the steering hub. Also, these hubs cost more than replacing bearings, races, seals to cool turn of $180 to $250+ I wish you luck in your replacement of wheel bearing on your Chrysler. GB..stewbison

Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Remove the front wheel.
2. Remove the front axle hub nut.
3. Disconnect the front stabilizer link from the strut.
4. Disconnect the speed sensor (with ABS).
5. Remove the front brake caliper and rotor.
6. Disconnect the tie rod end.
7. Remove mounting bolts and nut and separate the lower control arm from the ball joint.
8. Using a plastic hammer separate the front axle shaft from the hub.
9. Remove the 2 mounting bolts from the strut. Remove the knuckle and hub assembly.
10. Remove the lower ball joint from the knuckle.
11. Remove the axle hub snap ring from the knuckle.
    
    
12. Remove the axle hub from the hub bearing using special tool 09520-00031 or equivalent hub puller.
13. Remove the inner race from the axle hub using special tool 09950-40011 or equivalent puller.
14. Remove the dust shield from the knuckle.
15. Remove the axle hub bearing from the knuckle using special tool 09520-00031 or equivalent and a press.

To Install:

1. Install the axle hub bearing on the knuckle using special tool 09950-600020 or equivalent and a press.
2. Install the dust shield on the knuckle with 3 mounting bolts.
   • Tighten 73 in-lb (90 Nm).
3. Install the axle hub on the knuckle using special tool 09950-600010 or equivalent and a press.
4. Install the axle hub snap ring.
5. Install the lower ball joint on the knuckle.
   • Tighten the ball stud castle nut 76 ft-lb (103 Nm).
6. Install a new cotter pin.
7. Install the knuckle on the strut with the 2 nuts and bolts.
   • Tighten 162 ft-lb (220 Nm) (except '03-'04) 113 ft-lb (153 Nm) ('03-'04).
8. Lift the knuckle and hub assembly over the axle shaft and into the hub splines.
9. Install the lower control arm on the lower ball joint.
10. Connect the tie rod end to the knuckle.
11. Connect the stabilizer link to the strut.
12. Install the front rotor and brake caliper to the knuckle.
    • Tighten the 2 caliper bolts 79 ft-lb (107 Nm).
13. Install the ABS sensor if equipped.
14. Install the front axle hub lock nut.
    • Tighten 159 ft-lb (216 Nm) and stake the lock nut.
15. Check the axle hub backlash and run-out.
16. Install the front wheel.
17. Check the front wheel alignment and adjust if necessary.

Jack up car and apply e-brake. car will roll if one of the front tires leaves the ground. remove tire , spindal nut and lower ball joint bolts. remove axle from hub then use a prybar to pop it out of trans. the passenger side will have a braket holding axle to engine , remove bolts from braket or squeeze snap-ring to rmove axle from braket.

Disconnect the vehicle battery ground lead.
Support the vehicle at the front and remove the appropriate wheel.
Remove brake caliper and disc assemblies see SRO 70 10
Note- Do not allow the caliper to hang by either harness or
flexible hose.

Pry off the hub grease cap
Remove and discard cotter pin
pull off castellated nut retainer
Remove the hub nut and bearing washer.
Carefully remove the hub assembly from the stub axle.

Pry the original seal from the spigot and discard.
remove the bearings and using a drift punch knock out the bearing cups.
Remove all traces of grease and dirt from the stub axle and back plate.
Note: the backing plate may be used to pull the inner bearing and seal if they stay on the stub shaft.
Press in the new bearing cups using a socket or other tool of the correct size to prevent damaging the new bearing cup or hub.
Note: Do not use bearing to press in the cup.
Pack the annular gaps of the oil seal lips with grease.
Wash the hub assembly thoroughly.
Ensure that the hub inner seal diameter is free of debris or damage and is lightly lubricated prior to assembly.
Only replace complete bearings, never cup or race in isolation.
Pack each race with approximately 4 ml of grease and position the inner race onto the stub axle.
Apply a smear of grease to hub inner surfaces and bearing cups. Assemble the hub to the stub axle followed by outer race, bearing washer and hub nut.
It is not necessary to fill the hub cavity with grease, merely protect from corrosion with a coat of lubricant. Seat the bearings by slightly tightening the hub nut whilst rotating the hub. Do not apply load without rotation.

Adjust End float. Set a Dial Test Indicator and adjust the hub nut to achieve the correct end float.
.001-.003"
As the adjustment is made, continually load the hub axially in both directions.
Without disturbing the end float setting, fit the castellated
nut retainer so that it aligns with both hub nut and stub axle drilling.
Secure nut retainer using a new cotter pin.

Reassemble brake rotor and caliper. Bolts MUST be tightened to specification
operation of the braking system verified.
Reassemble wheel

FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle
   
   
3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware
   
   
5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
   
8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
   
10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
    
13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50-80 ft. lbs. (68-108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
14. Assemble the hub parts.
15. Install the caliper.
16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive

1. Remove the wheel cover.
2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle
   
   
3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship
   
   
5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat
    
    
16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely. Place jackstands under the frame, then lower the vehicle slightly to allow the control arms to hang free.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
3. Insert a drift punch into the caliper and rotor vanes to prevent the rotor from turning, then remove the hub/drive axle nut. Clean the threads of the nut.
   1. Unfasten the caliper mounting bolts, then remove and support the caliper aside with a suitable piece of wire.
   2. Remove the rotor by sliding it from the hub.
   3. If equipped with ABS, detach the front wheel speed sensor connector and unclip it from the dust shield.
   
   The hub and bearing are replaced only as an assembly.
   For 1987-92 vehicles, perform the following:
4. Using a suitable front hub spindle removal tool, separate the hub from the halfshaft.
5. Remove the hub and bearing retaining bolts, shield, hub and bearing assembly and the O-ring.
6. Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle, using the proper tool.
7. Remove the halfshaft assembly and tap the seal from the steering knuckle. Remove the steering knuckle from the hub.
8. For 1993-99 vehicles, perform the following:
   1. Unfasten the hub and bearing retaining bolts and dust shield.
   2. Place the transaxle in PARK.
   3. Using a suitable front hub spindle removal tool, separate the hub and bearing from the drive axle.
   4. If necessary, remove the steering knuckle.
   
   
9. Clean the rust and foreign material from the knuckle mounting face, bore and chamfer to allow the bearing to properly seat in the knuckle.

To install:

1. For 1993-99 vehicles, perform the following:
   1. If removed, install the steering knuckle.
   2. Position the hub and bearing assembly to the drive axle. Apply a light coating of grease to the knuckle bore. If the new hub and bearing has a protective plastic cover, remove it before installation. Also, do not handle the knuckle or hub assembly by the ABS sensor wire.
   3. Install a new drive axle nut and draw the hub and bearing onto the axle.
   4. Place the transaxle in NEUTRAL.
   5. Install the dust shield, being careful not to damage the bearing outboard lip seal.
   6. Install the hub and bearing bolts, then tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
   
   
2. For 1987-92 vehicles, perform the following:
   1. Install a new hub and bearing seal in the steering knuckle with a suitable seal installation tool. Install the steering knuckle to the strut.
   2. Lubricate the hub and bearing with grease. Fill the cavity between the seal and bearing completely.
   3. Install the halfshaft.
   4. Connect the ball joint to the steering knuckle and insert a new O-ring around the hub and bearing assembly.
   5. Install the hub and bearing, and shield into the steering knuckle. Tighten the bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
   
   
3. If equipped, attach the ABS front wheel speed sensor connector, then clip the wire to the dust shield.

1. Install the rotor and caliper assembly. Tighten the caliper bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm).
2. Insert a drift punch into the caliper and rotor vanes to prevent the rotor from turning. If not already done, install the shaft washer and nut (if equipped). Tighten the nut to the following specifications:
3. 1987-88 vehicles: 3 ft. lbs. (270 Nm).
4. 1989-90 vehicles: 15 ft. lbs. (260 Nm).
5. 1991-99 vehicles: 107 ft. lbs. (145 Nm).
6. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
7. Carefully lower the vehicle, then tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm).

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle
   
   
3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware
   
   
5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
   
8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
   
10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
    
13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50–80 ft. lbs. (68–108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
14. Assemble the hub parts.
15. Install the caliper.
16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive

1. Remove the wheel cover.
2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle
   
   
3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship
   
   
5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat
    
    
16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).

About an hour a side...This is the whole job and pictures....

The hub and wheel bearing unit is serviced as a complete assembly. Replacement of the front drive hub and bearing assembly can be done without having to remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. However, if the hub/bearing assembly is frozen to the steering knuckle, removal of the steering knuckle is required.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the stub axle. Remove the nut lock and spring washer. With the brakes applied, loosen, but do NOT remove the axle nut and washer with the vehicle still on the ground or damage to the wheel bearing will result.
   
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel.
   
4. Remove the front brake caliper assembly from the steering knuckle assembly and support from the strut assembly using a strong piece of wire.
   
1. Remove the front brake rotor from the hub/bearing assembly.
   
2. Remove the retaining nut and washer from the halfshaft stub axle.
   
3. Remove the ABS wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle.
   
4. Remove the 4 hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts from behind the steering knuckle.
   
5. Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
   
5. To install:
   
   1. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the steering knuckle and the hub and bearing assembly of any foreign material or nicks so the surfaces are clean and smooth.
      
   2. Install the new hub and bearing assembly and tighten the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern to 45 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Be sure the hub and bearing assembly is seated squarely against the front steering knuckle.
      
   3. Install the disc brake rotor.
      
   4. Install the brake caliper assembly onto the steering knuckle.
      
   5. Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten but do not torque.
      
   6. Install the ABS wheel speed sensor.
      
   7. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts, in sequence, to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
      
   8. Lower the vehicle. Do NOT roll the vehicle until the axle nut has been properly torqued or damage to the front wheel bearings will result.
      
   9. With the vehicle's brakes applied, torque the axle nut to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm). Install the spring washer, nut lock and a new cotter pin. Wrap the cotter pin prongs tightly around the axle nut lock.
      
   10. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Check the wheel alignment.
       

The hub/bearing assembly is attached to the steering knuckle with four bolts



Removing a hub/bearing assembly




If the hub/bearing is "frozen" to the steering knuckle, separate the ball joint and lightly tap on the hub/bearing from behind




The hub/bearing assembly should free itself from the steering knuckle

About $60 a hub.

1. Loosen the wheel nuts and the center axle nut.
2. Raise the vehicle and safely support it.
3. Remove the wheel. Remove the ABS speed sensor if so equipped.
4. Unclamp the brake hose from the shock absorber, but do not disconnect the line.
5. Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
6. Remove the brake disc.
7. Place a dial indicator near the center of the axle hub, and check the backlash in the bearing shaft direction. Maximum is 0.0020 inch (0.05mm). If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
   1. Usiung a dial; indicator, check the deviation at the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt. Maximum is 0.0028 inch (0.07mm). If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.
   2. Install the disc and caliper. Tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
8. Remove the cotter pin and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
9. Remove the lock nut cap. While depressing the brake pedal, remove the center axle nut.
10. Raise and support the vehicle again and remove the wheel, caliper and disc.
11. Loosen the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber. Do not remove the 2 nuts and bolts.
12. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
13. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator or equivalent.
14. Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and separate the arm from the knuckle.
15. Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
16. Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
17. Remove the bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
18. 1. Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
    2. Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator tool or equivalent to loosen and remove the joint
    3. Use a slide hammer/extractor to remove the outer oil seal.
    4. Remove the snapring.
    5. Using a hub puller and pilot tools or equivalents, pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
    6. Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).
    7. Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.
    8. Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.
    
    To install:
    
    1. Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover with a plastic mallet to drive out the bearing.
    2. Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be replaced.
    3. Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size.
    4. Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
    5. Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    6. Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
    7. Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
    8. Use a hub installer to press the hub into the steering knuckle.
    9. Install a new snapring into the hub.
    10. Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    11. Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
    12. Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
    13. Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142). Install NEW cotter pin.
    14. Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
    15. Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then attach the tie rod end to the knuckle.
    16. Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 203 ft. lbs. (275 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the NEW cotter pin.
    17. Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
    18. Install the brake disc.
    19. Attach the brake caliper to the knuckle and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
    20. Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle.
    21. Install the ABS speed sensor if so equipped. Install the wheel
    22. Lower the car to the ground.
    23. Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Tighten the hub nut while depressing the brake pedal to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm) on 1992-97 models. Install the cap and cotter pin.
    24. Remove the protective cover from the CV boot. Check front wheel alignment

OK, Chances are better than 80% that you have a bad hub bearing on the drivers side. To get to it, you must remove the brake assembly and axle retaining nut (do nut first with vehicle on ground, tire on) If wheel has removable plastic center, remove it for access, or use spare tire. The hub itself is bolted to the steering knuckle. Sometimes it is rusted in and is a bit difficult to get loose... also, sometimes the axle splines get rusted the same way...(I usually put the axle nut back on, backwards, so that it is flush with the axle end, and tap on it with a hammer to break the axle free. ANY roughness when turning bearing by hand indicates failure. You cannot load bearing by hand as much as it is actually loaded with vehicle weight on it. The hub & bearing are factory assembled and can be purchaced as a unit for about $125, or junkyard part at about $35. Install in reverse of removal... put lube on axle spline andaround bearing housing to make install a bit easier. Torque axle nut to specs and don't forget cotter pin. (if hole does not line up, tighten nut till it does...don't back off to align!) Though I don't recommend driving with a bad bearing, they are big and tough and since noise just started, you likely can get away with this for a short time without any damage. Don't forget to check axle joints while you're there. If "X" joints, This is the best time to lube them,,, if they are binding at all, replace them.
Good luck!