I need to replace the heating element and electronic control board on my Kitchenaid KUDS01DL Dishwasher. I have the parts. I have been able to find directions on how to replace the heating element, but am not finding anything on the electronic control board. I don't even know where this part goes. I am guessing somewhere in the door, but can't find any instructions. Help...

F44 indicates a heater relay fault; the heater cannot be turned on. First check the heating element or the wiring for the element. If there is a problem with these, replace the part(s). If the heating element and wiring are good, then you need to replace the entire electronic control board. The relay is on that board.

Unfortunately, the control board is no longer made. The parts diagram is available here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/3ky9drdxaj-000583/kenmore-elite-11028082700-washer-parts . The heating element is shown as part 15 on the motor, basket and tub parts diagram. The electronic control board is part 1 on the control panel parts diagram.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Error CodeConditionCheck/RepairShop PartsClean light blinks 7 timesHeater circuit failure. Control didn't detect the expected rise in water temperature.Check the heating element and related components (wiring and control board) in that circuit.
Heating element, Electronic control board, Thermistor, Circuit wiring
Console light blinks rapidlyThe control detects a stuck button on the control panel.A failed control panel or a malfunctioning electronic control board can cause this code. Check the buttons on the control panel using a volt/ohm meter. In most cases, the control panel must be replaced. If that doesn't solve the problem, the electronic control board might be at fault.
Control panel, Electronic control board
Start/Resume light blinks slowlyIf the dishwasher door is opened or power is interrupted during the cycle, the dishwasher won't start again until the door is detected as closed and the Start/Resume button is pressed.Check the door latch and switch assembly. A failure in the Start/Resume button also can cause this problem.
Door switch assembly, Control panel, Electronic control board
Clean light stays onThe dishwasher won't start a new cycle unless it detects that the door opened after the previous cycle.Turn off power to the dishwasher by shutting off the breaker and restarting. If that does not work, the door switch assembly is stuck and must be replaced.
Door switch assembly
Control lock LED is on but not accepting key pressesAccidentally turned on or control detected keypad problem.Press the Heated Dry key for 5 seconds to turn off control lock feature. If that doesn't work, replace keypad.
Keypad
Sanitized LED blinks at end of cycleControl couldn't confirm that the dishes were sanitized.Check voltage to the dishwasher and the temperature of incoming water. Check the diverter motor, the heater and the OWI/thermistor.
Diverter motor, Heater, Thermistor

maybe a dry joint on the electronic board, check carefully the board

Kitchenaid: KUDE03FTSS1. Cleaning light pulses 6 times plus 1 1. Dishes not drying and wash cycle shutting down before finishing the complete wash cycle. Check door switch, ok. Check heating element, Ok at 14 ohms. Got to thinking, the Logic part of the mainboard must be working. It diagnosed itself. Remove K3 relay from W1019358 main electronic board. Took the plastic cover off the little 5-volt relay. Applied 5 Vdc to the coil, it worked. Found pitted contact points on the relay. Erratic continuity on contact points.
I purchased 10, JS1-F-5V relays from an online electronic parts store. 10 relays shipped to my door $23.00. A new board could cost from 175.00 to 350.00. I also replaced the K2 Pilot relay. it was the same relay as the Heater K3 relay. The Dishwasher works great. The active parts general go bad. I had a Whirlpool dryer, found the heater element relay went bad on its board, replaced it for $4.50 I guess I got lucky on this dishwasher , too
Stay Safe

Hi,
The control goes in the door...it is easy to get to.
Just take the screws out of the inside panel of the door, they are around the outside edge of the interior of the door. The panel will then lift off and the control will be near the top on the inside.
Make sure the power is turned off to the dishwasher and then one by one remove the wires from the old board and place them on the new board. then remove the old board and fasten in the new one. replace the panel and then give it a trial run.
Everything should be working just fine but some of the timing will be a bit different.

heatman101

Kitchen Aid models with the stainless steel tanks flashing clean light requires changing out both the heating element and the electronic control due to a change in voltage on the heating elements. By ordering the heating element, it comes with the electronic control. For your particular model it is a part #8194200. Just shop around to the different parts stores online, to get the best price. This will fix your problem.

If it's KitchenAid or Whirlpool or Kenmore, and your clean light BLINKS and the heating element inside is ROUND - there is a problem with your control board and the element. There is a kit containing both, for the price of the heating element alone.
This might be the part you need

You are right -almost-. When the heating element is not working properly and dishes doesn't dry, I don't think the heating element went bad. It's more likely that other part is causing the problem. Perhaps the timer went bad.

When the timer is broken, the heating element doesn't get power to dry the dishes. By the way, the timer are also called electronic controls or control panel. I believe it needs to be replaced.

SUGGEST YOU PULL OUT PLUG THEN OPEN DOOR UNSCREW TOP SECTION OF PANEL TO GAIN ACCESS TO DOOR LIMIT. CAREFULLY BRIDGE BOTH WIRES OUT AND ALSO WITH WATER SWITCHED OFF, SWITCH POWER BACK ON. IF NOTHING STILL, CHECK POWER TO DOOR LIMIT. IF THERE IS POWER, EITHER THERE IS A LOOSE WIRING CONNECTION ON THE BOARD OR IT HAS AGAIN GONE FAULTY.

DONT KNOW THIS UNIT BUT TRACE BACK YOUR STEPS. CHECK THE PRESSURE SWITCH FOR AN AIR BUBBLE AS THERE SHOULD BE NO ACTION WITH THE ROTORS UNTILL YOUR WATER LEVEL IS CORRECT.CHECK IF THE SUMP LIMIT ISNT STICKING.