I just installed a new electric water heater with dual high limit elements.I hooked up the red and black wire, just like the old one and set the limits to 125 and turned on breaker. we waited about 6hrs and did not have any hot water. How long does it take for the water to heat up. I checked voltage at both elements and had 240 on the top one, phase to phase, blue and yellow wire. The bottom one had a blue and yellow wire and I got O volts pahse to phase, but 120 phase to ground which tells me they were the same phase. That is not right , is it.

Why Does My Electric Water Heater Reset Button Keep Tripping? So the red reset button on your electric water heater keeps popping out and needing to be reset.
Here's the most likely problem: The water in your water heater is getting too hot.
When the water temperature in your water heater exceeds 180°, the red reset button (also known as the high-limit switch) trips. This tripping protects you from getting scalded or burned when using hot water in your home.
OK, but then what's causing the water in your water heater to get so hot? The most likely cause is a bad thermostat.
How a bad thermostat causes your water heater reset button to trip Electric water heaters have a lower and upper thermostat-one for each heating element.
The thermostats are responsible for controlling the heating elements. When the water has cooled off, the thermostats kick on the heating elements to heat the water. And once the water has reached your desired temperature, the thermostats shut off the heating element.
(This is very similar to the way your heating and air conditioning thermostat controls your home HVAC system.)
But these thermostats can go bad. When they do, they sometimes get stuck in the "on" position. This means that that the heating element continues to heat your water, eventually causing the high-limit switch to trip.
The fix: The bad thermostat needs to be replaced. A plumber can use a multimeter to test the thermostats and find out which one is bad.
Other problems that can cause your high-limit switch to trip While a bad thermostat is the most common reason your water heater's reset button may trip, it's not the only one. Other common causes include:

• A shorted heating element-It may be that the thermostat is working just fine and shutting off the heating element. But a short in the element is causing it to continue to heat your water.
• Loose wiring-A loose wire in the water heater can generate heat that can cause the high-limit switch to trip.
• Bad high-limit switch-The switch itself may be malfunctioning and tripping when it shouldn't be.

Get a professional plumber's help

Do you live in the Minneapolis-St. Paul area and need a reliable plumber to help you troubleshoot your water heater problem? Contact MSP Plumbing. We can usually fix the problem the same day.

Your residential water heater is not 9000 watts. Or it would blow the fuse every day and melt the wire. Instead, you have dual-element non-simultaneous 4500 watt water heater.
http://waterhatertimer.org/How-it-works.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html
Look at label for 'total connected watts'
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Whirlpool-energy-smart-watt-rating-IMG_2600.jpg
25 amp breaker or fuse and 10 gauge wire is minimum acceptable for 4500 watt water heater.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-code-wire.html
Troubleshoot blowing breaker or fuse:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#trip-breaker
Why does it blow fuse once each year?? I don't know.
Fuses and breakers trip when overheating occurs on wire.
Each fuse or breaker is rated for heat, and over time, it will get hot and then cool and then get hot again ... this action weakens fuse or breaker.
To solve problem: install 3500 watt elements (and clean sediment out of tank). Wire will run cooler, and fuse will last longer. Whole fuse box will demand less power, and run cooler, and will last longer as a result. So there is less stress on electric service panel.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html
3500 watt element will heat water to same temperature, but takes longer. For example: 4500 watt heats 21 gallons per hour, while 3500 watt heats 17 gallons per hour.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Guessing that you have 240Volt residential non-simultaneous electric water heater? And that you have 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wire. And that water heater is located within 100 feet of breaker box. And there are no leaks running hot water out of tank. And that you installed fully brand NEW elements of same wattage as old elements. And that fully brand new thermostats were installed, and wiring exactly duplicates wiring that was present before. And that factory-insulation was re-installed over elements and thermostats.

1) Guessing the 'hot water shut off' means the ECO red reset button located on upper thermostat keeps tripping and cutting off electric power to water heater?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/WH-w-combined2-1000.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-wires.html

2) If the ECO is tripping, then water is getting too hot, or there is shorted wire located near the upper thermostat, .
Typically replacing both thermostats and replacing elements will solve this problem .... assuming that new thermostats and elements are good, and wiring correct.
Double-Check your wiring on upper and lower thermostats.
Test wires for short.
Make sure factory-insulation is re-installed over thermostats so cool room temperature will not affect temperature reading.
Check that thermostats sit flat against steel tank.
Many short draws hot water can also cause stacking event that will trip circuit breaker.

3) Add comment and say what you find using checklist above.
Be careful to explain findings fully, using same words found on links above, so illuminated diagnosis can be made.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

check with a vom set on high voltage setting. for power... black wire to black wire,, white wire to red wire on heater ground wire to tank ..on 220v there is no neutral like on 110volts..check red reset button under top panel / control push on it resets it,,,

If you have some hot water from dual-element water heater, then that tells us:
Water heater is 240Volt.
Upper element is working. If upper element is not working, then heater has NO hot water.
Reset button is not tripped.
Electricity and breaker to water heater are delivering 240Volts to heater.

Remaining suspects are:
1) Bad upper or lower thermostat: Solution: replace both thermostats for 28$.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
2) Bad lower element: Solution test and replace element:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html
3) Loose wire or loose connection: Solution: open both covers and inspect for burning. Tighten all screws very tight.
4) Bad wire: Solution: Buy cheap multimeter from Home Center and do a 30 minute troubleshoot of entire water heater before replacing any parts:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html
When testing for voltage, rotate multimeter dial to 240-250-277VAC
When testing elements or continuity, rotate multimeter dial to Ohms.

If water heater thermostat is bad, buy a generic thermostat at hardware store and install it according to instructions shown on link below:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
I usually replace both upper and lower thermostats for about $28.
Lowes sells thermostats and elements.
If your water heater is a single-element/ single-thermostat, you can buy any thermostat with red reset button.
Technically a single-element thermostat has 1 less screw, but either thermostat will work.
If your water heater is 120V or 240V, the same thermostat will work of either voltage.
This is true because the thermostat is a simple bi-metal heat-reading device that does not operate on electric current.

That being said, you might want to test parts before replacing anything, in case problem is element.
To do comprehensive electric water heater troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Image below shows generic thermostat with reset button. Each of these will work for single-element or dual-element tanks with either 120V or 240V. Wires connect just as they did on old thermostat. Tighten wires very tight. Press in reset button to make sure ECO is set. Put insulation and cover back over thermostat when finished.

Your water heater has 2 elements so its 240Volts.

1) If breaker is delivering power on one leg of the 240Volt circuit, then water heater can appear to have electricity, but tank is receiving 120V. Both 120Volt legs are needed to complete the 240V circuit. Double check for 240Volts.

2) Review electric Load.
Water heater label shows wattage of tank.
If tank is 4500Watts for example, you installed 3500 or 4500 watt elements.
With 5500 Watt elements you need 30 amp breaker and orange-colored 10 gauge wire
With 4500 Watt elements you can get by on 20 amp breaker and 12 gauge wire up to 75 feet away.

3) Check ECO red reset button on upper thermostat. If reset is tripped, then ECO is reading high temperatures. Suspects at this point are defective upper thermostat, shorted wire or bad lower element.

4) Also note that insulation and cover must be re-installed over thermostat. Thermostat reads temperature through wall of tank. If outside air circulates around thermostat, that can cause a mis-read and cause tank to overheat and ECO trips.

If you don't want to test the heater, replace both thermostats for about $25. Return the upper thermostat for a refund. Then see of problem persists.

Here's what I would do.
1. Check breaker for 240
2. Check water heater for 240 across 1 and 3 screws on upper thermostat
3. Note wiring and breaker size.
4. Note label on side of tank.

5. Look at end of new element to see wattage printed on each element. Look for sings of high heat and burning. Tighten screws on elements.

6. Check ECO reset button. Look for high-heat and burning. Tighten screws on thermostat.

7. Test upper thermostat as follows:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Electric-diagram-water-800.jpg
Test left-side #1 screw to right-side middle #4 screw. Test should read 240V at all times. If not, then ECO is tripped, thermostat is bad, or electricity is OFF

8) Water heater is cold so upper element should be ON. Test upper thermostat.
Test right-side #3 screw to left-side bottom #2 screw and it should read 240V
Test right-side #3 screw to right-side bottom #4 screw and it should read 0 volts

8. If upper thermostat checks out. Test upper element for 240 across both screws. If upper element does not read 240 when water is cold, then element is bad or there is a shorted wire between element and upper thermostat.
How to test element:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

9. Do a full troubleshoot on electric water heater
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

I would check with your owners manual to see what they reccomend for minimum breaker size. I don't remember on this particular model but it may be a single element instead of dual element. The single element usually use more power than dual. I would also check thermostat settings if this is a dual element. They should never be set at same temperature. Also if it continues to trip breaker I would check all wiring,then replace breaker. Sometimes they do wear out and trip when they really shoul not. Hope this helps. Thanks

Residential water heaters USUALLY follow same diagram unless water heater is wired for other purpose. Multiple diagrams on instructions show available options. Take photo of wiring before removing wires on any electrical device.
Upper element.
Black wire from top of heater connects to #1 top left screw.
Red wire from top connects to #3 top right screw.
Blue wire from upper element connects to #4 middle screw on right side
Red wire from lower element connects to #4 middle screw on right side
Yellow wire from upper element connects to #2 lower left screw
Black wire from lower thermostat connects to #4 lower right screw
Upper element: Yellow and Blue wires connect to either screw
Lower element: Red wire from top connects to either screw
Lower thermostat: Black wire from top connects to top screw
Short wire between lower thermostat and lower element

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Water-heater-wiring-w-numbe.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html

find the leak first, then dry out the wiring and thermostat. extremely hot water indicates one of the elements has gone bad and is returning to ground. If you have a ohmmeter, with the power off disconnect the wires to the elements and check from ground to the terminals. If there is deflection on the ohm scale, you have a grounded element. I suggest you also relpace the high limit cutout as well, it's the part of the thermostat with the red button.