Viking gas broiler will not light. New ignitor. I have 120V through the switch , 120 V to ignitor, 120 V up to entry terminal of the gas valve. No voltage measured at neutral terminal of gas valve. Continuity test between line and neutral terminals of gas valve shows no continuity. Has the gas valve failed?

The Jenn-Air Broiler LP broiler orifice is part number: AP4091112. A picture of the part is here: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/whirlpool-orifice--broiler--lp--item-number-ap4091112.aspx . (To me the number looks like 65 to me. The natural gas version is number 47.)

Check the current draw at the igniter. (The meter must be in series with the igniter. I know the bake igniter needs to be above 3.2A.) Other possible causes of the problem are a selector switch problem or the glow bar. (These are things to check if the oven works.)

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

There are many things to check. The single most important test is for 24V at the gas valve after the ignitor is supposed tp be on. 19 V or less and there is either a bad ground or the ingition control board has failed. (Wire ground problems are a high probablilty)

Here is what the book says:

PROBLEM #1 - HOT SURFACE IGNITOR DOES NOT GLOW RED

(Remember to wait for purge time, 17/34 seconds, on models so equipped).

Possible causes

A. No main power

B. Faulty transformer

C. Faulty thermostat

D. Faulty limit switch

E. Faulty blower interlock switch

F. Faulty hot surface ignitor

G. Faulty ignition control

Solution

Step #1

Perform normal system checks of main power, transformer, thermostat, limit

switch, blower interlock switch, and replace faulty component.

Step #2

With power on and thermostat set at its highest position, check voltage

between "TH" and "TR" on HS780 ignition control. If 24 volts is not present

check output at transformer. If no, replace transformer. If transformer

checks out OK look at other controls in the 24 volt circuit I.E.: thermostat,

limit switch, blower interlock switch. Check for 120 volts between "neut"

(L2) and "120" (L1). Check for 120 volts at the ignitor across "IGN" and

"IGN" terminals on the HS780 ignition module. If 120 volts is present,
replace ignitor. If no, replace the 780 series module

PROBLEM #2 - IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT MAIN BURNER

WOULDN'T LIGHT

Possible causes

A. Improper ignitor alignment

B. Faulty ignition control

C. Faulty gas valve

D. High inlet gas pressure

E. Polarity reversed

F. No earth ground

Solution

Step #1

Check for availability of gas at gas valve. Make sure the manual valve

upstream of the gas valve and the gas valve are in the full on position. Also

make sure gas is being supplied to the system at the proper pressure, too

high will lock-up the valve.

Step #2

Check proper polarity of "NEUT" and "120" on the ignition control by reversing

the wires, if reversed gas valve will not open. If this does not solve the

problem, replace wires as they were.

Step #3

Check for proper ignitor position.

Step #4

Check for a good earth ground by using a meter connected between L1

and furnace chassis. Should read 120 volts, if no, check and/or repair ignition
ground wire or ignition control mounting screws.
CAUTION POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED

Step #5

Check for 24 volts at the gas valve terminals; "1" and "2" on a 7200 series,

"M" and "C" on a 7100 series, "TH" and "TR" on a 7000 series. If yes,

check wire integrity or change the gas valve. If no, change the 780 series
ignition module.

That is pretty much all of the troubleshooting required.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Yes you're right the gas valve failed.

Good luck, Dickson

Remove the bottom tray in oven compartment...... usually 2 screws at the rear... Turn it on to bake and see if ignitor glows if not test ignitor for 120v if you have 120v replace the ignitor. If it glows and still does not light burner after a few seconds the ignitor is weak replace it. (The gas safety valve has to receive a certain amount of power that must flow through the ignitor for the burner to ignite a weak ignitor will not allow enough power to flow through it). If you are not getting 120v trace the circuit.

ignitor are bad, level of ignition should be 3.1 A,
replace ignitors.
appliancesrepairla.com - Professional Viking repair

First clean the terminals at the control and check for tight wires at the incoming terminal block. Check the neutral wire for a good conection. If the ignitor reads less than 3 amps it does not have enough resistance to open the gas valve. Turn the gas off. Put a clamp on amp meter on the broil ignitor wire. Turn the broiler on. If less than 3 amps.replace the ignitor.

You are probably right though often the ignitor will glow, but just not hot enough for the valve to open. I would definitely try replacing the ignitor first, it is much cheaper than the gas valve and those valves rarely go bad. It is possible that the thermostat is not sending 120V to the valve, and thus the ignitor but less likely.

if you have 120 v to ignitor then ignitor is bad.

Turn on oven. Ignitor should begin to glow. (if no glow after 30 seconds or so, check to make sure you have 120 volts to ignitor) Observe amperage draw using a clamp on amp meter. When amperage reaches 3.2 to 3.6 (for square syle ignitors) the oven safety valve should open, releasing gas and lighting the burner when the gas hits the red hot ignitor. For broiler, just substitute the word broiler for oven. Old ignitors get " weak " and may not draw enough amperage to allow safety valve to open. Also, voltage will affect the amperage draw, as lower voltage = lower amp draw.

Check the voltage on the 2 wires going to the oven gas valve. If you get 120v when the ignitor is on with no gas coming out, you have a bad gas valve. If you get voltage, but it is not much, it is the ignitor. The ignitors don't burn out completely on the ovens, they just get a little dim and no longer ignite the gas and eventually will not turn on the gas valve