People, the first words the poster said were that the dryer was "brand new". All of your suggestions assume the dryer had extensive use. This sounds like a factory defect issue!!!! My brand new Maytag Cabrio gas dryer is also making an obnoxious buzzing sound that seems to cycle on and off as the gas ignites. The buzzing sounds electronic not mechanical. What would buzz when the burner is active?
SOURCE: My Maytag dryer won't dry clothes.
Pull the dryer out away from the wall. Unhook the vent from the dryercompletely. Do not put anything over the dryer exhaust on the back ofthe dryer. Do a normal load with the vent unhooked. If it dries betteror ok like this then the problem is in the dryer venting. Like ablocked vent pipe or a smashed or restricted vent hose.
If the vent doesn't make a difference,then check the blower wheel for excessive lint build up, check thatthere isn't anything stuck to the air intake baffle inside the drum,(i.e. the screen on the back wall of the dryer when looking into thedrum). Check the lint filter chute for blockage. Check that the heatingelement isn't shorted to ground. Check the exhaust temperature of the dryer. A meat or pocket thermomter can be used for this. It should cycle between 120 degrees and 160 degrees. Check that the drum seals are not worn out.
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Dryer making vibrating noise while working
a bearing in the back for your drum sounds like what you describe. It needs to be taken apart and the bearing lubricated with high temp grease
SOURCE: Maytag Atlantis MDG8400AWW Dryer Runs Cool
I had a similar problem years back. It was the ignitor. The ignitor is a ceramic like piece that heats up (glows red) that ignites the gas. Typically when that goes, you will see some white residue build up where it cracked, thus breaking the electrical connection. This thing works like a heating element on an electric stove, but rougher looking.
The part was about $30 at my local parts store. I bought an extra one just in case so I have it on hand. I installed it with common tools.
You can check it to see if you lost connection by using a volt meter.
Good luck.
SOURCE: My Whirlpool Quiet Dry 1
Hi msieber...
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me
1,748 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×