Lightning strike, blows internal fuse (6.3v 125/250) on plug in.

I'm sorry to hear about the issues with your Laney Pro Tube 100 watt guitar amp. Based on the information provided, it seems that the amp may have experienced damage from the lightning strike. Here are a few steps you can take to troubleshoot the blowing fuse issue:

1. Check the power tube(s): Make sure the power tube(s) are functioning properly. You can try swapping them with known working tubes or have them tested by a technician. Faulty power tubes can sometimes cause issues with the fuse blowing.
2. Inspect the wiring: Examine the internal wiring of the amp for any visible damage or loose connections. If you notice any wires that have been melted or disconnected due to the lightning strike, they should be repaired or replaced. Be cautious when working with electrical components and consider seeking professional assistance if needed.
3. Test the rectifier tube (if applicable): Some tube amps have a rectifier tube responsible for converting AC voltage to DC voltage. If your amp has a rectifier tube, it's worth checking its functionality or having it tested. A faulty rectifier tube can lead to issues with power supply and fuses.
4. Use a variac for testing: If you have access to a variac (variable autotransformer), you can use it to gradually increase the voltage supplied to the amp during testing. This can help identify any underlying issues that may be causing the fuse to blow, such as excessive current draw.
5. Consult a professional technician: If the above steps do not resolve the issue, it's recommended to seek assistance from a qualified technician who specializes in tube amp repair. They have the expertise and tools necessary to diagnose and repair complex issues like this one.

First try plugging the receiver into an outlet that is known to work. If it still does not work, look at the following:

Hopefully there is a fuse on your receiver that is blown. 2 options before it needs to be repaired by a professional:

1. Look on the back for any type of fusing house. It would be labeled "Fuse" and they are commonly held in by what looks to be a flat head screw.
2. If there is no fuse on the back of the unit, it is very possible that there is an internal fuse. Open the chassis, and carefully look for a fuse. It usually is about 1/4"diameter cylinder that is about an inch long. IF you are unfamiliar with electronics, it may be wise to skip the opening of your receiver.

Lightning Strikes can do a lot of damage. Hopefully its a blown fuse.

This lightning strike depending on where you are seeing it is either showing you the button to push for the internal flash to pop up or it's telling you that flash is required for the camera setting you have chosen. If the lightning strike is an icon on the camera body it will be beside a button that's for an internal flash. If you see this in the viewfinder or screen then the camera is letting you know that the scene is going to require flash.

Fuses blow when there is an overload. Overloads in turn are caused by a semi-condutor device that is acting like it was just a piece of wire. In this case look around the power supply and look out for burnt or damaged parts.

Hello,

Power surges or nearby lightning strikes can destroy electronic equipment. However, most of the time, damage is minimal or at least easily repaired. With a direct hit, you may not recognize what is left of it!

Ideally, electronic equipment should be unplugged (both AC line and phone line!) during electrical storms if possible. Modern TVs, VCRs, microwave ovens, and even stereo equipment is particularly susceptible to lightning and surge damage because some parts of the circuitry are always alive and therefore have a connection to the AC line. Telephones, modems, and faxes are directly connected to the phone lines. Better designs include filtering and surge suppression components built in. With a near-miss, the only thing that may happen is for the internal fuse to blow or for the microcontroller to go bonkers and just require power cycling. There is no possible protection against a direct strike. However, devices with power switches that totally break the line connection are more robust since it takes much more voltage to jump the gap in the switch than to fry electronic parts. Monitors and TVs may also have their CRTs magnetized due to the electromagnetic fields associated with a lightning strike - similar but on a smaller scale to the EMP of a nuclear detonation.

Was the TV operating or on standby at the time? If it was switched off using an actual power switch (not a logic pushbutton or the remote control), then either a component in front of the switch has blown, the surge was enough to jump the gap between the switch contacts, or it was just a coincidence (yeh, right).

If the TV was operating or on standby or has no actual power switch, then a number of parts could be fried.

TVs usually have their own internal surge protection devices like MOVs (Metal Oxide Varistors) after the fuse. So it is possible that all that is wrong is that the line fuse has blown. Remove the cover (unplug it first!) and start at the line cord. If you find a blown fuse, remove it and measure across the in-board side of fuse holder and the other (should be the neutral) side of the line. The ohmmeter reading should be fairly high - well certainly not less than 100 ohms - in at least one direction. You may need to unplug the degaussing coil to get a reasonable reading as its resistance may be 25 or 30 ohms. If the reading is really low, there are other problems. If the resistance checks out, replace the fuse and try powering the TV. There will be 3 possibilities:

It will work fine, problem solved.

It will immediately blow the fuse. This means there is at least one component shorted - possibilities include an MOV, line rectifiers, main filter cap, regulator transistor, horizontal output transistor, etc. You will need to check with your ohmmeter for shorted semiconductors. Remove any that are suspect and see of the fuse now survives (use the series light bulb to cut your losses - see the section.

It will not work properly or appear dead. This could mean there are open fusable resistors other defective parts in the power supply or elsewhere. In this case further testing will be required and at some point you may need the schematic.

Unplug it and then blow a hairdryer at the power supply for 3 minutes. Leave the lid on, just blow the hairdryer at it from the outside. Craziest trick I ever saw.

After that, turn off hibernation. And eventually, replace your power supply.

It may be just the internal fuse has blown, but in most of these circumstances it is very likely other components in the power supply have shorted out which will blow the internal fuse immediately when replaced. I would advise having a local repair service centre take a look at it to assess the damage that a lightning strike can cause to a TV.

you mite try replacing the ac fuse 1 time-if it blows again there is a short in the power supply-i would then check rectifiers in the primary of the power supply-then check the fet-if any of them are shorted replace them

This may just be an internal fuse on the power supply has blown, if you have a multi-meter you can remove the rear cover & check for yourself to see if it is open circuit you may be lucky & this is the only problem. However, very often lightning strikes can cause a lot of damage to the circuitry, so if the fuse is at fault & then blows again, I would suggest contacting your supplier to get an repair engineer to take a look for you & access any further problems.

Not to different from arcade, If the fuse is blowing right away check the bridge rectifiers next for shorts and anything on the primary ac to dc side first, Caps,may have a surge suppressor on the ac side. If it was lightning sure you will find it in this area. Secondary supply shorts usualy do not blow fuses, Just cause the supply to shutdown.