Dryer runs for minutes then stops timer keeps going and going and .....
My GE dryer (don't know the actual model #) is about 3 years old, if that. We already replaced the heating element about 1 year ago. Now, dryer runs for about 3 - 5 minutes and then stops. Dryer is hot, so I know the heating element is working. The timer keeps running until the time is up even though the dryer itself stops running. HELP!!!! Is there an easy fix or should I just get a new dryer?
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The heating element assembly warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the dryer won't stop, it may be because the heating element assembly isn't working - which greatly increases the drying time. Check the heating element for continuity. http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dryer/7-3-850356-/GE-Dryer-won-t-stop-DWSR463EG7WW
This GE Website has descriptions and videos you can watch. Also shows the price of replacement parts and the skill level needed to preform repairs yourself.
Had the same problem. There was a bit of a kink in the vent duct which caused lint to build up in duct and also inside the dryer itself over years. I replaced the duct and took dryer apart and cleaned out the air passages.It works great now. As for the humming, mine started about 2 1/2 years ago and I still don't know why.
The Maytag Bravos is a good dryer and I am sorry you are experiencing trouble already with it. Since you are not drying, it is probably either the heating element or the thermostat. Both can be checked with a multimeter after disassembly. I would normally look up the parts for you, but I can't do that without the actual model number.
it could be the heating element even though it is just over a year old, i have seen heating elements go out on 3 month old dryers, it also could be a thermostat the best thing to do is make sure it is getting the full 220 volts going to it, if it only has 110 volts the motor will run and have no heat and vise versa, then if that is good get to the heating element and look it over real good most of the time the heating coil will be broke into it wont look burnt just broke
There are many things that can cause a no heat symptom in an electric dryer, here is a list of possible causes in order of likelihood or ease of access.
1.An open fuse/breaker in the house fuse panel.
There are 2 fuses or breakers for the dryer, both must be good in order for the dryer to function properly. If one is open, it is possible for the dryer to run but not generate heat. In the case of breakers, try resetting them as sometimes one of the two can open but not physically tip the mechanical lever.
2.An open thermal fuse in the dryer.
Some models use a thermal safety limiter or thermal fuse which could open the circuit to the heat element. These are used to prevent a runaway or over heat condition and are often found mounted to the blower or heater element housing (see the links below for examples). These devices are a fairly current development and may not be found on very old dryers.
Note: If this is the cause of your current problem (pardon the pun), I strongly suggest you check the vent for obstructions and ensure its length meets the manufacturers recommended limitations, the shorted the better. Failure of this part could be the first indication of a potential fire hazard in the dryer!
3.The element coil is burnt out.
Dryer elements are bare wires coiled like springs, when they fail the wire will break opening the circuit. This breakage could be intermittent, only opening as the element expands as it heats. Sometimes the element coil has to be physically checked for breakages, especially where the coil goes through ceramic insulator which could hide a breakage from plain view. Depending on the brand and style, the replacement element may be just the coiled wire that has to be mounted into the original element housing. On other models the element assembly comes already mounted on a frame that then in installed into the element housing or directly into the dryer. Whichever the case, the element coil has to be replaced not just joined together using connectors.
4.A burnt wire or wire connector. Replace the burnt wire connector and/or wire and inspect the component terminal it was attached to. If any sign of charring or discoloration are visible on the component's terminal or repeated failures occur at that same location, replace the component the terminal is part of. Such items can include the main power junction terminal block (very common), thermodiscs (thermostats), heat selector switch, centrifugal switch (on the motor) or the timer.
i have fixed thousands of dryers over the years and the element shorting to ground is a rare ocurance.if you are loosing elements this fast it is due too your ducting as i think you know.and your replacement of the flex with hard ducting will surly aid in that cause.too answer your question,sure the thermo's will have been weakened but i have seen the same thermo's on 15,20 year old dryers ,so they can take some punishment.i owned an appliance repair buissness for ten years and after market wholesale thermo's were about 3$ each so if could find at that kind of price ,ok.other wise may be looking at 30 to 40$ and i dont see it making your dryer much safer then is with out new. God bless,hope that helps,tom
If you are sure the thermal switch is ok.. have you checked the high temp ( bi metal snap switch) too? Here is a link to the wiring diagram of your dryer. You can see that there are a few other temp switches in circuit of the heating element that would disble it.. Hope this helps
it could be several things but the element could should be the last part i would check first if you are still using fuses change them both if that doesnt work call for service call a good service man stay away from major companies they are expensive i know i worked for most of them