Need basic settings for Baby Lock BL450 Serger. Any idea where I can get it?? My book was lost. The threads don't wrap around the edge of the fabric. I've re-loaded 3 times following the diagram on the front cover, but no luck. I just need the basic stitches.

Try setting up your machine with the 4 different thread colors as the guide--use yellow thread in the yellow guide, blue in the blue, etc. This is a good way to figure out what is not working with your tension dials. To start out with a 4-thread stitch, set the tension dials at the midway point on each and then test your stitch. You should be able to see which thread colors are off. If one color is wrapping over the edge of the fabric, then that tension is too loose and the opposite thread may be too tight. The tensions are correct when the threads meet in the middle of the fabric. It's a matter of sitting down and playing with it to see what happens when you make changes to the settings. Also, one particular setting that works on a particular fabric may not work on another, so learning how to test and adjust is a big part of using a serger.

As for stitch length, that is mostly a personal decision. The shorter the stitch length, the closer the stitches will be.

The anatomy of perfect serger tension Sew McCool

Serger Tension Made Easy Do It Better Yourself Club

There are many web sites and videos that could be helpful.

I highly recommend you watch the videos on YouTube. They explain as they are threading the machine and the images show you exactly what to do.
Best of luck!

I use a small screw driver to undo the screw, insert the needle all the way into the needle holder--flat side to the back of the machine, then tighten the screw back

I would suggest that you contact Husqvarna Viking to purchase a manual for your 936 serger, their contact details are here.
http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/us/406.htm

You could also get lots of general sewing info from Debbie Cosgrove at http://sewing.about.com/od/sergersoverlock/ss/serger.htm sewing.about.com is a fantastic source of information on sewing techniques, sewing machines, sergers and projects too.

Sergers are quite differernt to a sewing machine and there are plenty purchased, used once or twice, then put away or sold because they are a bit difficult. But like any new skill learnt, taking a class and learning hands on is so much better than trying to figure out from a manual so if you can find a local Husky dealership, I'd enquire about an "intro to serger" type class, well worth the money and time.

Yours will probably do a three thread overlock, 4 thread overlock and rolled hem stitch, these three seams will cover a variety of sewing tasks and applications. You can seam knits and lycra with the 4 thread, and neaten the raw edges of just about all fabrics with a three thread. The rolled hem allows you to do a small covered edge which covers the fabric cut edge wrapping the thread around it closely. Beautiful on very light weight fabric edges like ruffles and frills where you have yards of fabric to neaten, much quicker than turning edge twice and straight stitching it.

There are other techniques with a serger such as sewing stretched elastic onto fabric, sewing over nylon fishing line to give a fluted edge or stitching over a string of beads. These are best done with a special foot for this purpose, elasticator or beading foot. You can also use decorative threads through the loopers to give an attractive finish.

There are several good sewing with a serger books on the market, Singer does one but there are other great ones too. You could always borrow one from the library before committing to buying it.

The inside diagram is for the loopers. For the needle threads, just follow the color coded dots.

orange-(5-7)
yellow-(4-6)
green-(2-4)
blue-(2-4)
medium weight, 4 thread

set all to 3-4

Here are rhe directions from the manual of "Image" model BLE1AT: 3 Thread Rollled Edge
With the stitch selector set on "D", a narrow edge can become a rolled edge. Remove the left needle and the corresponding thread. Clear the stitch fingers. Turn the stitch length adjusting dial clockwise into the rolled hem range and set the dail at 1.5 Set the stitch width to 3.5

Hope this will be of some help. Good luck and have a great day! Lisa

You probably are in need of a new bobbin case they are plastic and oif you have broken a needle lately it may have gouged the case and the top thread is getting caught and bunching up underneath. Visit www.stevessewandvac.com you can contact them and have a bobbin case sent to you.

I was in a similar position (but had the manual). The manual isn't as complete as I'd like. Anyway, what finally got mine working were the following:
1. turn all tensions to zero before putting thread through them
2. thread the upper looper, then lower looper, then needles.
3. when threading the lower looper (mine kept pulling out), after passing the thread through the looper eye, it needs to go pretty much straight up, not wrapping around anything else - other thread, for example. Mine was at one point trying to wrap itself around a post.
4.when everything is all threaded up, make sure all threads are under the foot *and* pulled to the left (even though the manual says pull to the back). Then chain off without fabric, turning the handwheel by hand to make sure loops are forming. If so, adjust tensions to where you think they should be (mine are currently all between 2 and 5), and add fabric. Then tweak as needed.

For me, this was a lot of trial & error, hair-pulling, and getting tips 1, 2, and 4. I figured out #3 on my own, with much swearing along the way. Good luck!

LF